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Altimat

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 23, 2003
Messages
78
Had to show off my 24 Volt starting rig. 2 lawn tractor batteries, added switch to Sullivan Model 4 to trip 10 Amp relay, 10 Amp relay trips several hundred amp Ford car starter relay. ;D

Starter.jpg
 
Why do you use the relays? why not just wire everything together (+ to + and - to -) and then to the starter =24v? does anyone have a quick diagram of how to do this set up? i have been wondering about those relays?
 
I think this is still the RC boat Community right???

and Not how to start a MACK TRUCK When dead?

Nice but what are you starting that you need 24 volts?

I had to wire my hobbyco deluxe starter to 24 to spin my IBs

but bought that big sulivin starter, Dont need 24 volts, that big starter is a monster.

and for the question for the relays, What i could make of it, you use the relay for a start BUTTON??? am i right or not?

If i am wrong, let me know why you are using the relays.

Hey put a handle and Wheels on that RIG and you would be all set, hate to see a long walk to the pond with that.
 
Its not too bad to carry. I'm a 250 lb. guy and that nice soft grip is from on old pair of crutches. I always had trouble spinning my K&B .82's cold on 12V until I went to 24V, but then the switches kept welding closed. One relay was either overloaded by the starter or was too much for the little switch. I think its bulletproof now. And the relays sound really cool when you hit the button! :)
 
Why do you use the relays? why not just wire everything together (+ to + and - to -) and then to the starter =24v? does anyone have a quick diagram of how to do this set up? i have been wondering about those relays?
You're describing the batteries wired in parallel which would double the available amperage not the voltage. Think of a 2 battery flashlight which is "wired" in series. That doubles the voltage.
A relay is very easy to wire. Usually there are normally open and normally closed contact connections, as well as the + and - connections for the coil inside that closes its contacts. You wire the starter up to the normally open connections of the relay contacts, and your starter switch to the connections that trigger the coil to close the contacts.
 
Why not just connect the starter to one battery's + and the other batts - then just use a peice of wire to connect the other ends and eliminate the relays alltogether? is it so the 24volts doesnt go through the switch on the starter?
 
So what you are suggesting is to have the motor run continuious. This will not work. Would be very difficult to try and get the starter on the belt. You want to have a switch so that you can shut it down if something get caught in it, like you finger. The reason for the relay is so that you don't weld the switch together. This way you can buy any old switch without a problem. There are not a lot of switches out there that can handle the amp draw and the ones that can are on the large size and cost more. You can buy that solenoid for $6 and get youself a pushbutton switch for $2. This is how all the starters that I have built over the years are done. The one nice thing about the lawn tractor batties is you charge once a year if they are a gell cell. They are a pain to haul around though. I use two 7Ah hanger 9 batteries and get usually two races out of a charge.

Mike
 
I used a Sullivan 12volt starter for years with a 24 volt battery and you're right about welding the switch together. However a new switch is not that big a deal and they usually lasted a couple of years. The battery was a monster so we left it under the drivers stand until the race was over! ;D Always had some extra starters around too.
 
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