Picco Exr Or not???

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Shnick

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2003
Messages
229
O.K., this may be a dumb question, but i have an engine i need mounts for, but redline has two different mounts...

it is a Picco .80, soon to be installed in my circus circus...

is this an EXR or not???

Thanks, Shnick :D
 
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Shnick said:
it is a Picco .80, soon to be installed in my circus circus...
I'll assume you do not plan to race your Circus in the 1/8th scale class as engine size is limited to .67........... :huh:
 
But how do you tell if it is? It has the same look as the 67, just a different piston and liner. Makes you wonder if people haven't run them before. ;)

Mike
 
Mike Hughes said:
But how do you tell if it is? It has the same look as the 67, just a different piston and liner. Makes you wonder if people haven't run them before. ;) Mike
I'm sure people have done exactly that .............. <_<
 
thanks Steve...

i have no plans to race the boat competeitively, just go fast as h3ll... lol

I assume the .80 has the same crankcase size as the .67???

if i do sell the boat, it will be easy for the new owner to re-convert to an .67 engine... all the running hardware will be 1/4 flex instead of the 3/16 supplied by Dumas.

i lack a stainless speedmaster strut and a prop...

i have flexcable and stuffing box left over from the 90 rigger i built last year.

got the radio parts last week, all i need is to finish it, looking at PPG paint...

would it be prudent to use normal spray can primer? or do i need something better???

thanks for all the help, Shnick :D
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Shnick said:
thanks Steve...
i have no plans to race the boat competeitively, just go fast as h3ll... lol

I assume the .80 has the same crankcase size as the .67???

if i do sell the boat, it will be easy for the new owner to re-convert to an .67 engine... all the running hardware will be 1/4 flex instead of the 3/16 supplied by Dumas.

i lack a stainless speedmaster strut and a prop...

i have flexcable and stuffing box left over from the 90 rigger i built last year.

got the radio parts last week, all i need is to finish it, looking at PPG paint... 

would it be prudent to use normal spray can primer? or do i need something better???

thanks for all the help, Shnick  :D
.67 same crankcase size so should you decide to race it in scale,or sell it no worries.

PPG Concept acrylic urethane is the way to go. I have been using PPG for years.

Spray bomb primer?? Let me put it this way- NO NO NO NO!!!! :eek:

Use the PPG expoxy primer DP48LF with your PPG paints. The primer is the heart & soul of a successful paint job, it's what gives the paint something to bite into. I would shoot the entire hull with PPG DZ3 which is a surfacer primer/sealer. Then sand with 600 virtually all of it off as it will fill the little imperfections. DZ3 is heavy which is why I only use as a final "pinhole catcher". Then spray the DP48, then your colors, decal it & clear it. You don't want to put alot of layers of primer on trying to fill imperfections, it will add weight in a hurry. When you've sanded off the DZ3 & think it's ready for the DP, take a spray bottle of water & mist the hull to give it a wet sheen. The water will act like a magnifier & show the little spots that need attention which would otherwise increase the "OH ***T" factor when you're shooting your paint. If you find something just spot shoot the DZ & repeat until you don't see anything. Patience is the key :p
 
There are a couple of ways to visually tell the difference without measuring.

1.If you remove the water jackets, the 80 sleeve will not be countersunk in to the case where the 67 will be.

2. If you remove the disk housing and can see or feel the crank, there is a cut groove on the backside opposite the crank pin where the piston will fit at BDC. 3.The placement of the crank pin is located in a different spot in the crank.

4.....and there is a channel groove in the bottom of the case so the the bottom of the connectiong rod will fit during BDC rotation.

I guess you still have to take something a part to tell. Worse yet, the three piece 80 case that came out after the above pictured two piece case has the 67 casted on the outside.

Hey Mike, I still run that stuff................

See you in Fremont. We have a heat or two in scale to make up. Save me some open water. I wont get there until Saturday AM.

Al Waters

NAMBA Vice President

NAMBA Scale Unlimited Chairman

Southern California Scale Thunderboat Association
 
Hey Al

I am going to miss out on Freemont. I really wanted to go, but too much work and not enough time to finish the A mod. Besides Lohring took the scale down last year in his van. He had a mid life crisis and bought himself a sports car since then. :D No room for the scale this year. I'll see ya in LA.

Mike
 
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Hi Guy's

On every Picco I've seen of that vintage (around 1990) it will have P60 P65 P67 or P80 stamped on the end of one of the engine mount pads, or under the lug. Pretty good indication as they did share the same case - slightly different machining.

GT
 
you guys are great!!! Thanks for the info... Don, i am printing this page and im gonna bring it to my paint guy... Remy is sending parts, so while they get sent, i;ll get painting supplies together...

Im blown away by all the help i'm getting... wow...

Thanks

Shnick :D
 
Tell your paint guy you want DCC colors & DCU2021 clear. I use the DP48LF epoxy primer in white, DZ3 is gray. If you really want to go for the gusto I use DFX11 accelerator as my catalyst, between coats time is 5 minutes & it's dust free in 10 minutes! :D Also spend the $$ on a good dual cartridge mask, should be around $20. Are you using an HVLP gun??
 
havent got a gun yet, but i hope my little air compressor will handle Porter Cables' PSH1 If not, i can always use the one at work...

i expect this to be the only boat i'll finish this way, so im not looking to spend a ton of money on something i'll use once, maybe twice... just something easy to clean...

what do you use Don??

Shnick :D
 
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