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feel free to PM me a list of items used in the box if you dont mind. (you COULD post it here but you know how that goes.

I have a few standard practices with 2.4 and can share them with you if you like. Also can make recommendations if needed. (if not.. thats OK too)

I just hate to see a good running boat have an issue.

Grim

Grim:

I don’t have a pic right now but here’s what I use:

1.). Savox Servos both Throttle and Steering. Both are waterproof and zero water was in the box . Driest radio box I’ve ever seen. All of the Blazer Boats I have really do nicely keeping water out. The throttle is one of the light blue less expensive but higher torque servos and the steering is the 1210 SG the high is black. Both are side mounted on aluminum mounts. I use stainless rod that I thread myself and monster ball links for the steering and a zippkits throttle cable setup which directly rotates the throttle on the 257 carb.

2.) 7 PXR Transmitter and R334-SBS receiver, both maybe 3 years old.

3.) Protek 1800 mah 6 volt- 2S Life Battery for Receiver. Protek 2100 mah 2-S Life Battery for Transmitter. Both receive a balance charge before every day at the lake, although I suspect I could go 2 times to the lake on one charge and think I have already, but prefer not to. 6.7 v on Transmitter and 6.6v on rec showing on radio.

4.) GPS Sensor. It’s the more expensive one, the 02 I think.

5.). Waterproof Locking Toggle Switch Harness set up for Futaba. I buy these from Daniel Place.

The radio box is located in the middle of the hull Front to back offset to the right side. I have the battery sitting in the middle of the box in the bottom and attach it with the really strong lock it type fastener strip similar to Velcro but both mating surfaces are like a plastic material. The receiver is mounted to the underside of a clear plexi lid. I put that same fastener on the back of the receiver and on the lid and I mount upside down with the face of the receiver pointing down. The antenna wire is the original ( I’ve never opened the receiver) and it is routed up through an antenna tube that exits in the cockpit to the right of the driver. It only sticks up about 2-3 inches. It almost looks like a stick shift or a speed brake. There is no cap on the tube per the instructions. The top (bare part) of the wire rests just below the end of the tube with the residual wire taped to the underside of the lid with clear tape. Next to that the GPS sensor is mounted with Gorilla Tape so it can see up through the cockpit. Between the drivers arms.

That’s about as descriptive as I can be. I’ve not had one issue with this setup. I have run this boat 7-8 different days this year, several time each outing. I will check but I’m fairly certain I had failsafe set up, both types, but again I have to check.

I went pretty wide of 1-2-3 because my friend had his Lauterbach out and we wanted to run side by side so I was waiting for him to catch up. I gave it right rudder, it started to turn, and then took off into the shore. I let off the throttle and nothing happened and I couldn’t steer away. It happened so quick and there wasn't anything I could do.

I LOVE this radio. It has NEVER let me down. The only weird incident I had recently was a couple weeks ago running my Backlash. The radio worked fine but when you started the motor, the throttle gradually ramped to high rpm on shore. It was a boat I had bought (I have 2 Backlashes) and it had a Tower Digital servo on the throttle. I shut off and did it again and once again it did it. I assumed the servo became glitchy and replaced with a Futaba digital servo I had in my radio case . I ran the rest of the day with no issues. Different 334-SBS receiver ( I have 5) but similar setup to the T Boat. Aside from that, I can’t say I’ve ever had an issue.

I hope this helps you with your question.
 
Thanks Rich,

I have a flying event i am taking off for tomorrow and if I get time I will get back to you.. otherwise it will be when I get back to town.

Just an FYI.. I have had some conversations with Futaba about the use of Savox servos using there systems. In general they stated they were not "compatible" but I did not understand the jargon behind that. This was a conversation that happen with Nick Maxwell (when he was with Futaba) and Jason Russell (team pilot) back around 3 or so years ago. As you can imagine if they work once they should work for ever.. but... I have seen other Futaba systems not play well with Savox and that was the reason for the conversation back then too. In the end lets not just wright that off however. Let me do some more learning and checking and see what we find.

Kind Regards,

Grimracer
 
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Thanks Rich,

I have a flying event i am taking off for tomorrow and if I get time I will get back to you.. otherwise it will be when I get back to town.

Just an FYI.. I have had some conversations with Futaba about the use of Savox servos using there systems. In general they sated they were not "compatible" but I did not understand the jargon behind that. This was a conversation that happen with Nick Maxwell (when he was with Futaba) and Jason Russell (team pilot) back around 3 or so years ago. As you can imagine if thy work once they should work for ever.. but... I have seen other Futaba systems not play well with Savox and that was the reason for the conversation back then too. In the end lets not just wright that off however. Let me do some more learning and checking and see what we find.

Kind Regards,

Grimracer
Thanks man have fun. Talk to you later!
 
Thanks Rich,

I have a flying event i am taking off for tomorrow and if I get time I will get back to you.. otherwise it will be when I get back to town.

Just an FYI.. I have had some conversations with Futaba about the use of Savox servos using there systems. In general they sated they were not "compatible" but I did not understand the jargon behind that. This was a conversation that happen with Nick Maxwell (when he was with Futaba) and Jason Russell (team pilot) back around 3 or so years ago. As you can imagine if thy work once they should work for ever.. but... I have seen other Futaba systems not play well with Savox and that was the reason for the conversation back then too. In the end lets not just wright that off however. Let me do some more learning and checking and see what we find.

Kind Regards,

Grimracer
I had issues with my 4 pm losing the bind on a couple receivers 304sb not sold on these futaba systems.I ran airtronics for ever fm never had a issue on the radio or receivers.I have a cheap o fly sky hasn’t let me down used it for a year the futaba acted up first two months not good.
 
I had issues with my 4 pm losing the bind on a couple receivers 304sb not sold on these futaba systems.I ran airtronics for ever fm never had a issue on the radio or receivers.I have a cheap o fly sky hasn’t let me down used it for a year the futaba acted up first two months not good.
I’ve been using my system for 3 years and never had even one issue. So I don’t know. Time will tell.
 
I’ve been using my system for 3 years and never had even one issue. So I don’t know. Time will tell.
Rich, bummer! Did you verify that you had your fail safe set correctly after you brought the boat in? If so then I suspect the switch has a problem or did it slide off, I’ve seen some of the metal switch push pulls available do that if they aren’t adjusted to have a good amount of friction on the plunger. From what you described if not the switch then a possible problem in the battery pack or wires around the switch.
John
 
Rich, bummer! Did you verify that you had your fail safe set correctly after you brought the boat in? If so then I suspect the switch has a problem or did it slide off, I’ve seen some of the metal switch push pulls available do that if they aren’t adjusted to have a good amount of friction on the plunger. From what you described if not the switch then a possible problem in the battery pack or wires around the switch.
John
To be honest all I did was check to see if the radio was working. I started the motor and ran the gas out of the carb, packed up, and went home. So I have some testing to do, like checking failsafe values etc… Man a switch problem would sure make sense but no issues on the shore. I will put everything to the test and see if I can find some repeatable issue.
 
Just random switch info..

The switch's I use (currently available, I still have some older switches that are in use. like the Futaba HD

I use this one in my high vibration applications.
https://futabausa.com/product/uba0324/
This in almost everything else that has a switch
https://futabausa.com/product/swh-13/
and this one I am running in my Sport 20 (so far I love it)
https://futabausa.com/product/electronic-push-button-switch-esw-2j/


I should go on to add.. the top and bottom switch's because they are electric need to be unplugged (or its best) to unplug when not in use. In the end its best to cycle the pins anyway adding in that small benefit.

Grim
 
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Just a factoid. (because I am doing the annual on my EC145 tonight)

Every other outing or so with the helicopter I cycle the gyro plug (CGY-750) from the gyro to the controller to "clean the pins" If I don't do this from time to time the tail can become abnormal. (gold plated too). This is a tick different as this is all PID loop code but the fact that the pins can cause this is the reason for the post.

In the end.. its a good idea to cycle the pins on your Switches and servos no matter what you play with.

Grim

Aha.. she is a NATS winner.... and now 7 years old... flying a demo this weekend with it. ANNUAL TIME!
 

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Just a factoid. (because I am doing the annual on my EC145 tonight)

Every other outing or so with the helicopter I cycle the gyro plug (CGY-750) from the gyro to the controller to "clean the pins" If I don't do this from time to time the tail can become abnormal. (gold plated too). This is a tick different as this is all PID loop code but the fact that the pins can cause this is the reason for the post.

In the end.. its a good idea to cycle the pins on your Switches and servos no matter what you play with.

Grim

Aha.. she is a NATS winner.... and now 7 years old... flying a demo this weekend with it. ANNUAL TIME!
By cycle you mean just unplugging and plugging back in a few times right?
 
Just a factoid. (because I am doing the annual on my EC145 tonight)

Every other outing or so with the helicopter I cycle the gyro plug (CGY-750) from the gyro to the controller to "clean the pins" If I don't do this from time to time the tail can become abnormal. (gold plated too). This is a tick different as this is all PID loop code but the fact that the pins can cause this is the reason for the post.

In the end.. its a good idea to cycle the pins on your Switches and servos no matter what you play with.

Grim

Aha.. she is a NATS winner.... and now 7 years old... flying a demo this weekend with it. ANNUAL TIME!
You don't use dielectric grease on the connectors.?
 
Lost radio, had no control, and it hit the beach. No fail safe kicked in. Weirdest thing ever… Consistent speeds of 62 or better. Really a nice running boat. It’s gonna have to sit for now I have too many other things to get to. Maybe get it fixed for next year. Prop and fin, I’m not sure about. Motor and pipe are fine. Strut is trashed, but drive shaft and wire drive seem fine. Rudder, not sure yet.
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Lost radio, had no control, and it hit the beach. No fail safe kicked in. Weirdest thing ever… Consistent speeds of 62 or better. Really a nice running boat. It’s gonna have to sit for now I have too many other things to get to. Maybe get it fixed for next year. Prop and fin, I’m not sure about. Motor and pipe are fine. Strut is trashed, but drive shaft and wire drive seem fine. Rudder, not sure yet.
View attachment 317939View attachment 317940View attachment 317938
Ouch !!! I have a Futaba 4PLS with the fail safe set up I also have a killer Bee system installed in case a battery goes dead periodically I test both system to make sure they are working only a suggestion
 
you are the 3rd person this month at CMBC to have their boat do that and fail safe to not work. One guys boat went nose down disappeared underwater for about 5 minutes, then just popped back up. another was using airtronics system and it failed, possibly due to water ingress.
 
Now if you had been running one of our New Zealand made bullet proof fail-safes in your boat I bet you would not be faced with the repair you have.
They are compulsory in our country if you want insurance cover whilst running under the auspices of the New Zealand Model Powerboat Association, our national body.
They are 110% waterproof as the electronics are sealed in resin. the best test to date was when a boat went to the bottom of a lake for 3 days before recovery. Once recovered a dry receiver and servo plus a new battery was connected and it still worked!!
Designed by a model boater who knew what was needed given previous commercial ones became vulnerable if they got wet.
If you lose power in your boat, they kill the motor, which I believe was the case in the above situation.
Also if your boat loses contact from your transmitter either loss of range or low tx battery it kills your motor.
Thirdly if your boat suddenly loses control at WOT thru servo failure of carb failure you can kill the engine from your transmitter via 3rd channel switch/button.
They have a red LED light fitted that is in your boat and if that LED is not glowing your motor will not start.
I have been running them for 7 years now and have saved my boats from serious damage several times.
The latest when I had a receiver go out and you guessed it, it killed the motor when the boat was over 200 yards away.
Got to the backlash in the rescue boat checked the LED and it was out on the water. picked it up and it came on. placed it back in the water and LED went out.
Changed receiver and problem solved.
Had I not had that failsafe installed like your boat it would have taken off up the lake at full throttle and destroyed itself.

If you need to know more PM me.
 
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