New Build and Few Questions

[Jeff Aylesworth]

I am quite new to building. I took over an unfinished hull and feel like I have gotten pretty far along but now have a few questions I haven't been able to get answers I am clear on.

The first is water outlets, I have a two pickup rudder and have built brass lines, but wasn't sure what the best outlet location would be. I made some angled pieces to match the side of the hull but want to be sure its correct before I go making holes.


The second is finishing the cowling and creating the nose. I have sat and looked at this for what feels like hours and just can't seem to figure out how to get the nose are correct. It also appears that quite a bit of material gets trimmed off the fiberglass bits. But wasn't sure on this either.




And lastly, I have built/assembled my rear upright wings but apparently the brackets for the supports from RC Boat Company have been backordered for quite some time. Is there another source?

 

[Mike Hughes]

1. Just dump it out under the left deck over hang. This way you can see it when you make a pass on the front shut to confirm water flow.
2. I usually don't glue up this area till I start cowl mounting. It helps to line it up with cowl. I have my cowl over hangers the tub section. It is stepped backed. You should just add more material to the outside of tub area to match the cowl.
3. For uprights, I just use aluminum. Pretty sure home depot should have some that will work. If not. Online metals is a great source for small cuts.

 

[Mike Hughes]

That is a titanium bulkhead doubler. Original wood one broke off in a blow over. Won't break this time.

 

[Steven Kinney]

Are you talking about the cross bars that stabilize the vertical wings? This is how I do mine. If you talking how to attach them down by the deck I use a little piece of G-10.

 

[Jeff Aylesworth]

Ok, thanks so much this is super helpful! I think I am getting close, I actually have some of the nose built but the cowling I have does not have that much material, it basically comes to a point.

I've also built some of the framework that looks similar. The top piece depicted here is not glued in, just set into place.

 

[Mike Hughes]

Glue a block to the cowl and shape it to fit. That is what I did.
Mike

 

[Jeff Aylesworth]

Thanks Mike! I appreciate your help! Also See that you are in Federal Way. I am in Seattle. So you aren't too far away.

I have a chunk of Balsa, do you think that would work or is too soft?

 

[Hydro Junkie]

Balsa will work but you have to make sure it's sealed up really well. The problem with balsa is that it's like a sponge, if water gets to it, it will swell up and will take a long time to dry out again.

 

[Mike Hughes]

No on the balsa. It is too soft. I use bass wood. I bought a bunch of blocks from the hobby shops from back in the day. For what it is worth., you could just go with some spruce from a 2x4 or any hard wood. It is not that big. So you looking at very little weight add. You just dont want something like pine with a pin like that thru the middle. Easy to snap it in 2.
Mike

 

[Hydro Junkie]

I'm glad you said that, Mike. I was going to BUT last time I told someone not to use balsa in a boat I didn't hear the end of it for almost a month. Didn't think I'd get slammed too bad with what I posted this time. Then again, if I give it a few hours........

 

[scottmeyers]

Hey Jeff,
I have to say that I really appreciate your build style. The frame piece shown in your latest pic looks exactly as I would have built it myself with the nicely radiused corners and large openings. But I had to laugh when you said you've stared at it for hours... I do the exact same thing all the time and I've been building for years! Don't worry so much. You're way ahead of the game for a new builder.
I usually stay out of these sort of conversations because I don't want to feel like I'm shamelessly plugging my channel, but I live in SE Washington and will no doubt see you at the races this year, so I'd like to share this with you in hopes that you'll find some of the information and ideas helpful.
Good luck with the build!
https://youtube.com/c/M5PerformanceHydroplanesScottMeyers

 

[Jeff Aylesworth]

Balsa does seem a little soft for the nose, I will definitely look at a harder wood and start with it attached to the front of the cowl. I really appreciate the tips!

 

[Jeff Aylesworth]

Hey Jeff,
I have to say that I really appreciate your build style. The frame piece shown in your latest pic looks exactly as I would have built it myself with the nicely radiused corners and large openings. But I had to laugh when you said you've stared at it for hours... I do the exact same thing all the time and I've been building for years! Don't worry so much. You're way ahead of the game for a new builder.
I usually stay out of these sort of conversations because I don't want to feel like I'm shamelessly plugging my channel, but I live in SE Washington and will no doubt see you at the races this year, so I'd like to share this with you in hopes that you'll find some of the information and ideas helpful.
Good luck with the build!
https://youtube.com/c/M5PerformanceHydroplanesScottMeyers

Thanks so much for the compliments!! This actually means quite a bit coming from you.

A little background on how I got here... I stumbled on your videos in my youtube feed early in the pandemic and watched just about all that were available at the time (some several times!) and figured this was something I could do and as a native Seattlelite I am drawn to Hydros naturally . I had previously restored a car so I figured no problem, I can do it!

I ended up finding a partially built hull and a bunch of parts that someone gave up on and dove in and been working on it pretty regularly since then.

Some early photos:

 

[JimWalters]

Could anyone help with some tips or advise on how to go about mating a cowling for the T-5 bud front section to rear and what you do to support under it?

 

[Hydro Junkie]

The cowl to my 2000 Elam Plus is one piece, cockpit and engine cover. The bottom edges are doubled with 1/8" stringers to make it stiffer and a single bulkhead was installed in the rear to mount the dummy turbine to and stiffen the rear of the cowl.
If you want to do the cockpit and engine covers separate, you could install a frame at the rear of the cockpit and front of the engine cover, using dowels or magnets to align the two parts. There are many other ways to do this as well, these are just two that I'm familiar with

 

[brad nichols]

Nice work guys!!

Brad

 

[Jeff Aylesworth]

Water inlets are in!

 

[Mike Hughes]

Water inlets are in!

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You should put support blocks for the brass at each bulk head. Brass is thin wall and over time from vibration will fail. Since you wont have access to these anymore whe3n the deck goes on, best to be safe than sorry. I dont use brass for my water lines. I use a .065 wall stainless. That will never fail.
Mike

 

[Jeff Aylesworth]

I did on one, prob can’t see it from the pic.

Thanks for the tips!

 

[JimWalters]

You should put support blocks for the brass at each bulk head. Brass is thin wall and over time from vibration will fail. Since you wont have access to these anymore whe3n the deck goes on, best to be safe than sorry. I dont use brass for my water lines. I use a .065 wall stainless. That will never fail.
Mike

What's the size of the stainless tubing you typically use?