My new scale "in the works"

Intlwaters

Help Support Intlwaters:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
The worst part about this stage is like 95% of the DZ3 gets sanded off. I only use it as a scratch & pinhole filler. It's not the actual sanding I hate as the DZ sands super quick, it the mess you have to clean up afterwards!!! YUCK!!! :eek: :eek: :eek:
 
Don:

I love the boat stand. I made something similar out of an old cymbal stand and PVC pipe and elbows, but yours looks sturdier, can you rotate the hull after painting one side??.. TJ
 
Yes it can be rotated to do bottom. It is a heavy duty cymbal boom stand combined with a mount plate I made. I started with .120" aluminum plate cut & drilled to fit motor mount. Then a single 5/16" hole dead center of plate that a 5/16"x4" bolt goes thru. That goes thru a sleeve then a nylock nut. That theads into a 5/16" threaded rod coupler to boom stand head. The boom itself has 2 adjusting points, one at the head & one at the stand. The trick with using this set up is to find the widest footprint stand you can, typically referred to as a double braced. I still put weights on the legs when painting to prevent accidently tipping it since it is a tripod footprint with the boom at full extension. :blink:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
PPG DZ-3 is a laquer thinned "high fill" primer. In other words it goes on thick & since it's cut (thinned) with laquer it dries almost instantly. It's way faster than used the tube type spot putty which I will sometimes use on large pinholes between DZ-3 coats. This stuff can add weight in a hurry so that's why I sand virtually all of it off. Once I'm happy with the hull it gets cleaned with PPG DX330, dried, shot with PPG DPLF white epoxy primer, cured for 48 hours, wet sanded with 600, cleaned, dried, then PPG Concept color. Another 48 hours then wet sanded with 600, thoroughly cleaned with 330. After the 330 has flashed off completely (about 30 minutes) graphics are wet applied, allowed to dry, hull is tacked, then clear coating begins with PPG 2021 clear, typically 4-5 coats. After 48 hours the clear is wet sanded with 1000, then 1500, then 2000, cleaned, then polished & waxed & boat is assembled. Alot of work but I want Concours quality results & anyone who has seem my scale boats in person can tell you the extra work pays off. B) B)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Ohhhh...It's a sprayable filler. I didn't recognize the number. Pretty good overview of your entire paint process. Hope others pic up on this. What type of spray equipment are you using?
 
One more question. How are your fins attached? I've wondered about what happens to the tail fins after the enevitable blow-over. Is there a breakaway system that lets them come off with little or no damage?
 
tracerbob said:
Ohhhh...It's a sprayable filler. I didn't recognize the number. Pretty good overview of your entire paint process. Hope others pic up on this. What type of spray equipment are you using?
HVLP detail gun with 6oz. cup.
 
tracerbob said:
One more question. How are your fins attached? I've wondered about what happens to the tail fins after the enevitable blow-over. Is there a breakaway system that lets them come off with little or no damage?
Metal (aluminum) tabs in deck, slots in wing bottoms & small nylon screws that will break off in a flip or blowover. Make sure your wings will float first!! :blink: :blink: :blink:
 
Thanks for the pic Don. I haven't been around many scale boats, but I have a growing interest in building them. I've been wondering how to attach the tail feathers in a way that's clean and will survive a blow over. Thanks again :D
 
Hey Don, LQQKS good , See in a while off toooo Aruba for a Martini :lol: :lol:

Bob Morton
 
Hey Don looks great.

I am boxing up my Winston Eagle and sending it your way LOL.

Tim
 
You guys crack me up! :lol: Today is the not so fun part, wet sanding everything with 600. Glad mother nature decided to give us a day warm enough to do this outside. :blink:
 
Back
Top