If I had only done that

[Hammerhead]

I had an idea for a new thread, and I thought I would start it off and see where it ended up. Hopefully full of information supplied by you all.

I don't often have these problems anymore, but when I first started racing, I was plagued by them. You know! Those little things that would have taken no time at all to do, but you didn't, so it cost you the race. Just having the fasted most expensive boat in the world will not guarantee you a trophy when you race. There are many other factors involved. I believe skill would be first most important factor in winning, a good running and handling boat would be second, and third (what I would like this thread to cover) minor maintainance or preventive maintainance that will turn the first and second into a loser if it isn't done dilligently.

Please avoid tips on tuning engines, boat design and so-on.

I will start off with my tip, and add some here and there as this thread grows, but what I would really like to see is everyone participate in

this with your ideas.

My tip: When you tape your radio box, take some cutting sheet material and make a square with an outer measurement of 1/4 inch larger than the the radio box lid, and with a rectangle 1/4 of an inch smaller cut out of the middle. Use this to tape your radio box lid on. Then go over it with Prather radio box tape. This will prevent water from entering where the radio box tape over laps. See diagram

I don't know if they call the material cutting sheets in the States, so I will explain what it is. It is a big sticker sheet that you can buy in any color, that is used for decorating cars. you can cut numbers, or designs out of it. The best is made by 3M company. It stands up to nitro well.

 

[chunk t]

If this isn't the same stuff it should work just the same. I'm thinking of stuff called High-Speed Vinyl. Most "quickie" type sign makers use this material and you can buy it by the foot.

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I Learned the hard way to either tape or rubber band the receiver batteries in the holder. Some friends I did a little of the 'ol rubbin' is racin' deal and the bump between boats was hard enough to pop a battery loose. Not much worse than watching your boat mis a turn and race across to far side of the lake.

chunk t.

 

[TomMoorehouse]

one that has got me....

disconnect the fuel line untill right before you start the boat. why? cause the heat in the air can cause the fuel to expand and then fill the engine.... aka flooded!

 

[TimD]

I always try to mount my receiver so that it is on it's side.

I do this so that the circuit board in the receiver is not sitting along the bottom of the case. less likely to have water hide in there if it should get into the radio box.

I now use pushrod seals on both sides of the radio box wall too( 2 pushrod seals per linkage) more for piece of mind I guess but if 1 splits the other will stop any leaks.

Can ya tell I'm paranoid about water leaks : :

 

[Hammerhead]

A good check of the bolts between heats is a good idea. I try to standardize the size of nuts and bolts to reduce the required amount of tools to do maintainance. I noticed that you need three sizes of allen wrenches to disassemble a prather rudder. Mine only needs one size. I re-taped everything so I can do it with one size. My boats usesonly 4mm bolts. I can quickly do a check with one wrench.

Keep the ideas rolling. Tims is a new one for me, gonna have to comply. Makes a lot of sense.

 

[TomMoorehouse]

the most water proof push rod seals ive found are from gary preusse. they do not use boots. it has a rod about 1/8" in a special ummm.... well like rubber lined tube. kinda hard to setup as it will bind if your not accurate with the servo/hole placement.... but VERY water proof!

 

[Don Templeton]

I always insert a short piece of brass tubeing ( just the size to fit the push rod ) into the rubber boot. It has always worked well for me and is much smoother and doesn't yank back and forth on the boot.

 

[Hammerhead]

You guys seem to be using different kinds of boots than what I'm used to. Could some one post a pic of the norm over there. If there is a big difference, I will post a pic of what I'm using.

Advice; I wouldn't recommend using solder on adapters at the carb end of your accelerator control linkage with big engines. They tend to brake at the base of the threads due to vibration. I would use the rods that are already threaded. It sucks when you win a heat and get disqualified, because you can't shut down your boat.

 

[chunk t]

I'm always surprised by the number of O/B guys who don't have the lower units of their outboards supported when they are putting the starter to the engine. A friend of mine was starting his 7.5 O/B and it back fired with the starter applied. Because of the starter torque and the lack of a skeg holder he stripped the gears in his steering servo.

Didn't even get to put his boat in the water. :'(

chunk

 

[Ed Radz]

Here is a tip on fuel tanks.

You just put together a milk white Sullivan tank and you can't tell where the ends of the vent tube and fuel pick up tube are. First, before you slide the stopper and tubes into the tank, color the ends of the tube with a black magic marker or a Sharpie pen. Slide everything into the tank then hold it up to 100 watt light bulb. Now you can see where everything is to line it up!

Later!

Ed Radz

 

[Hammerhead]

That's a good idea. I know some people who could use this technic. They are worried about the few extra ounces, so they put the smallest tank they can in their boats. This will let them run down to the last drop.

Here's another:

Change your plug every heat. Even if it is still good. You can always save them and use them at your practice pond.

If you run your needle on the edge, the filament can drop into your cylinder and ruin your day.

Hammer

 

[Hammerhead]

I don't know about the states, but in Japan, we are not allowed to practice at the pond where the tournament is being held on the day of the tournament. Since most tournaments are on a Sunday over here, most people practice the Saturday before at there local pond and make all their settings good for the next day. I always take my engine apart and get every bit of it clean after I run. I'm very careful not to move my needle setting when I'm doing this, because I don't use 3 channels. After I get everything back together and in the boat. I very carefully check where all the hoses are going. Once I wasn't so careful on the race day. After getting my boat started, my pit guy threw it in the water, and while I was milling I noticed that no water was coming out of the water outlet. It was too late to bring it back in and check it out, so I went ahead and continued milling. All of a sudden, my engine stopped.

I had the hoses for both of my water pick ups connected together, so the water was going nowhere. My engine over heated and froze. Luckily that day I was racing in two classes so, my day was only half ruined.

Hammer

 

[Twin_k90]

Dont forget to put the starter belts on, i always do this and it drives me insane, espically on the twin!!

 

[Hammerhead]

Another good idea, is to take some time and learn how to start your boat with a rope. If you have a yard of cotton rope in your pocket when you are in the pits, you won't have to worry about the starter belt breaking. If it does break, you can whip out your rope, and crank it over. I always use ropes with my .21s and .45s. .90s can be difficult, so I prefer to use a starter with them, but I can start them with a rope if I need to.

Hammer

 

[Hammerhead]

Make sure your carb isn't loose after every heat. I had a bad experience with this a few years ago. If I had only tighten that darn thing down before the last heat, I would have had my first and only perfect score.

Since then, I always epoxy my carbs inplace. Sounds a little radical, but I haven't had a carb pop out on me since.

I use the Hi-Heat long curing type, Lock tite works good too, but you have to redue it sometimes. If you like to take your carb off and dink with it every once in a while. I would go with the lock tite.

Hammer

 

[FastFreddy]

I am just getting into boats but have had good results with cars doing this...I use a thin film of the "Artic Silver" heat sink grease(for computers) between the head and the sleeve/case of the engine. This helps transfer heat away from the cylinder and improves compression without insulating like rtv would. Engines run cooler.

Also...I bought an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner from a department store for $20. It really makes cleaning small r/c parts easy.

Also...If you trim the end off of one of those cone-shaped spring water cups they make a great emergency funnel.

 

[Tony Jacuzzi]

I have taped my battery and switch leads together with some radio box tape ever since the time that the connection vibrated loose and my boat cartwheeled across the far shore !! Cheap quick insurance that this problem doesnt re-appear..TJ

 

[Hammerhead]

I do the same thing. Never had the spectacular crash like you had due to them coming disconnected. Just some advice from my fellow racers. Hearing your story makes me feel glad that I listened to my buddie's advice.

Thanks for the input.

Hammer

 

[Twin_k90]

I use switches with a charging lead built in, and then heat shrink them tight, this way they are not coming apart with out a knife and looks better than the old tape!

 

[MikeP]

Hi,

To keep my 2-56 and 4-40 rods from rusting I have been using gun blue on them. Shine them up apply gun blue then oil them with your favorite cable grease. They turn out black an shinny and really look good with brass links.

Mike