How to tighten up a loose rigger

Intlwaters

Help Support Intlwaters:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
PLEASE, before you do anything get the tub level like Don is telling you. It is absolutely useless to adjust sponsons and strut without starting with the tub.
 
Like Don and preston said......Put the boat on a flat table top resting on the front ponsons and rear shoe. The tub must be at a negative angle of attack. Bow lower than transom as measured at the radio box with a level. Or measure from the table to the top of the tub both at the bulkhead where the stuffing tube enters the radio box and at the transom. TOP of tub to table. If the angle is not negative the boat WILL blow off at a certain speed. That is step #1. Shim the front boom tubes until the tub is negative. Then, step 2 is get the angle right on the front sponsons. Step 3 is check the tub again after you adjust the front sponsons to make sure the tub is still negative. Even though the tub might be negative, you set the sponsons so the tops are flat (parallel) with the table. Left one a bit negative to compensate for prop walk. Then, strut touching the table at the very rear with the same angle as the rear shoe. Go race.
 
This has been an excellent discussion thread and very informative. Question: the boat in question is an SGX. Would you say these principles could be applied to all riggers or just the SGX since front and rear sponsons (shoes) will vary between boats?

Thanks,

Bill
 
This has been an excellent discussion thread and very informative. Question: the boat in question is an SGX. Would you say these principles could be applied to all riggers or just the SGX since front and rear sponsons (shoes) will vary between boats?
Thanks,

Bill
Bill this for the most part pertains to the SG/SGX boats. ;)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
When you guys speak of shiming the boom tubes , exactly what are you refering too ? Im mean I know what shimming is but how its accomplished on a rigger ? Sorry for the newb question in advance.

This has been a very informative thread ! Almost wish I hadnt sold the sg when I finally said Uncle cause I couldnt get a handle on it....
 
When you guys speak of shiming the boom tubes , exactly what are you refering too ? Im mean I know what shimming is but how its accomplished on a rigger ? Sorry for the newb question in advance.
This has been a very informative thread ! Almost wish I hadnt sold the sg when I finally said Uncle cause I couldnt get a handle on it....
With the rear shoe/sponson on the table raise or lower the front sponson to level the tub. You may have to add or remove shims to accomplish this. After the tub is level you must adjust the AOA of the front sponsons by adjusting the front tube. However, when you adjust the front tube the tub attitude will probably change as well. It could take hours to do this correctly.

I use shim stock that you can buy in .005", .010", .015" and so on. The shims are added and removed from between the boom tube and the hard wood block beneath. Yes, .005" can make a difference. And do not over tighten you boom tube bolts as that can twist or change your settings as well. Be critical in your setup. When measuring tub heights and such I reccomend a set of calipers.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
When you guys speak of shiming the boom tubes , exactly what are you refering too ? Im mean I know what shimming is but how its accomplished on a rigger ? Sorry for the newb question in advance.
This has been a very informative thread ! Almost wish I hadnt sold the sg when I finally said Uncle cause I couldnt get a handle on it....
With the rear shoe/sponson on the table raise or lower the front sponson to level the tub. You may have to add or remove shims to accomplish this. After the tub is level you must adjust the AOA of the front sponsons by adjusting the front tube. However, when you adjust the front tube the tub attitude will probably change as well. It could take hours to do this correctly.

I use shim stock that you can buy in .005", .010", .015" and so on. The shims are added and removed from between the boom tube and the hard wood block beneath. Yes, .005" can make a difference. And do not over tighten you boom tube bolts as that can twist or change your settings as well. Be critical in your setup. When measuring tub heights and such I reccomend a set of calipers.
AMAZINGLY finiky little boats. SO many variables :blink: -

It makes me respect Marty's 20 Hydro every time I see it run. and everyone else thats that quick for that matter. ;)

Thanks.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
It is amazing how the addition of a small shim can make a rigger a dog or a MISSLE !! Patience is a must and i am very short on patience so if it's loose ....work the trigger as required !!!!!!

 
Last edited by a moderator:
It is amazing how the addition of a small shim can make a rigger a dog or a MISSLE !! Patience is a must and i am very short on patience so if it's loose ....work the trigger as required !!!!!!
'

The key word, patience. don't have it !!! Need that instant thrill :eek:
 
It is amazing how the addition of a small shim can make a rigger a dog or a MISSLE !! Patience is a must and i am very short on patience so if it's loose ....work the trigger as required !!!!!!
'

The key word, patience. don't have it !!! Need that instant thrill :eek:
Perfect solution to that problem would be an RTR. You should get one! :p
 
Back
Top