How to get into FE tunnel the right way.
- Thread starter Bill Britton
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HTV Boats
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Shane,
The 42X55 is the best all around safe prop. The M445 is faster but you need to monitor heat and amp pull as it can get you in trouble. They start out uncut at about 46mm diameter and that works for a full P or Q. On the specs I have cut diameters down to 42,43, and 44mm's. Other choices are Grimracer 42X66,44X66 and 45X68.
Mic
The 42X55 is the best all around safe prop. The M445 is faster but you need to monitor heat and amp pull as it can get you in trouble. They start out uncut at about 46mm diameter and that works for a full P or Q. On the specs I have cut diameters down to 42,43, and 44mm's. Other choices are Grimracer 42X66,44X66 and 45X68.
Mic
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Shane,
Safer yes but it is a relative term here as you can turn more prop just for shorter times. Run 2-3 laps and see where the heat is and how many ma's are used. I like the 45X68 and M445's cut down a little. Thats what we run on a spec Shaman without overheating. On our "Q" (6S) setups we run an M445 6 laps about 55mph and draw 3800-4200 ma's. Put a 1914 on the same setup and speed goes close to 70 and uses 3300 ma in two passes. If we tried to run laps we'd cook everything by lap 3 with a stiff prop. FE motors just don't know what load you put on them and keep pulling. Bottom line on a spec tunnel an M445 is about as stiff as I would go. If you don't have enough battery capacity you still can hurt your packs while the motor and ESC live on. 5000ma's 30-40c will get the job done.
Mic
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Ill also second the M445. We run stock M445's, just S&B, nothing else. I run these on my P-Spec and Q tunnel. They work very well, and dont push the equipment too hard.
No matter what prop you guys use, make sure you heed Mic's advice and run a couple laps, bring her in and see where you're at temperature wise. I've been told many times "A prop that works well for a guy at one pond may not work at your pond". I've seen a heat racing prop that someone recommended on the west coast fry a club members equipment after four laps at my club pond. IMO,the 42x55 is a great prop to start out with. I havent seen a P-Limited Outboard that it doesnt work well with. And I haven't found the need to go any bigger racing in D12 and D13 with my TS3..
Tim leyde
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Darin, with all due respect. I know you defiantly know your stuff. However as you mentioned. You worked on the sponsons of your Lynx. Also not set up like any other. That being said, I will still have to go with the Vision. Most of us don't spend the kind of time on our hulls/setups as you do. Out of the box so to speak. Vision all the way especially in some of this MN rough water heat racing. My brothers would take lane 1 and 2 full out in Mod tunnel, full throttle with no work done to the sponsons at all! Truly amazing.
As for Mike's new sponsons (NX300). I have not seen one run or had experienced one yet. However I'll bet my last dollar its a winner aswell.
TL
As for Mike's new sponsons (NX300). I have not seen one run or had experienced one yet. However I'll bet my last dollar its a winner aswell.
TL
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casey
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Over the last 10 years or so I’ve had a few of OS .21 Villain S1's. A few years ago I got a VS1 and planned on converting It to P-spec, but it never got completed. Last month I bought a complete p-spec VS1. It has an Aquastar 120 esc and Aquacraft 2030kv. I haven’t played with the set-up much but with neutral trim and the prop shaft about 1/16” up its pretty fast and as long as the water is smooth and it’s not windy its fairly stable. I don’t have a speed on it but I’d say it’s well into the 40’s, seems much faster then my 42mph Revolt. The only prop I’ve tried on it is this M445 I got from Mark Sholund. I also have a Top Speed 3 I’m in the process of getting ready, once it’s done I’ll move everything over to it in hopes of more speed and stability.
Since the prop has a little larger diameter should I maybe try running the motor a little higher? Thanks for any set-up advice!
Since the prop has a little larger diameter should I maybe try running the motor a little higher? Thanks for any set-up advice!
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casey
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Yesterday after work I charged up 3 batteries and tested 3 props, a sharpened and balanced 42X55, Mark Sholund X642 and a Mark Sholund M445. The batteries were Turnigy 5000mAh 4S 40C’s. I used a fairly heavy Garmin eTrex Legend taped under the cowl on top of the radio box towards the front of the boat. speed with the 42X55 was 46.9, X642 was 47.6 and the M445 was 49.8. without the gps or a much lighter one and a little more setup I think the boat could easily run 51 or 52.
My question is what else besides more setup and prop work does it take to get a Top Speed 3 into the upper 50’s or even faster?
My question is what else besides more setup and prop work does it take to get a Top Speed 3 into the upper 50’s or even faster?
I think you are asking too much out of P-Limited set up if you are looking for upper 50's+. Low 50's is very respectable. Blue printing the bottom and making the trailing edge of the sponsons nice and sharp will get you a little more speed. As far as raising the strut.... You never know unless you try but it will probably affect your handling. Also, Don't be surprised if your TS3 is a little slower than your VS1 with similar power. The VS1 was designed for stock .21 nitro motors and is fast but has a tenancy to blow over easier than the TS3. The TS3 handles chop and turns better in race water. IMO.
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HTV Boats
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casey,
If your at the 50mph barrier with a 2030 AQ motor your doing very well and competative in spec tunnel class anywhere. You also are near a cliff with no warning track. To go faster a couple mph may be attained in tweaking prop & trim. To get to upper 50's you need more HP (watts) Even for just a couple straightaway passes more than a m445 will stress your motor. An m545 might gain a little but WILL take your motor or controller at some point.
A 2030AQ is rated at 60 amps with a burst to 80 amps for 5 seconds. Take 14.8v times 60 and you get 888 (900watts) which is about what the motor is capable of. Go to 80 amps and you have a need for 1184 (1200 watts) (actually miliwatts small "w"). The actual short term burst might pull 90 amps again too much stress for a 60 amp rated motor. Take a 1515 1Y (2200kv) Neu motor with a 1250w and 2500 burst rating and your easily high 50's but 2500 divided by 14.8v = 170 amps (or more) and now you don't have enough esc. Something inbetween like a Turnigy 36X74 2200kv or similal Leopard will be in the 1500-1800w burst range (100-120amps)where your 120amp might live. Depends on the prop load and again close to the blue smoke cliff.
What are you actually looking for? A good spec race boat or a few fast passes for self indulgence?
Voltage times amps = watts
watts divided by volts = amps
1W (1000w) = 1.34hp
Chilli is correct on raising your prop height. May screw with handling. On a tunnel you usually hook or spin out when you get too high. Take a little prop diameter off, lower it and let it hookup.
Mic
