How to get into FE tunnel the right way.

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i dought that even ken hanes will drive that far next year....possably even a smaller turnout then this year....was hopping to see a huge turnout this year....;(
 
i dought that even ken hanes will drive that far next year....possably even a smaller turnout then this year....was hopping to see a huge turnout this year....;(
We Tried... We brought down 5 or 6 from the NW... Lohring Miller and Brad Lewis were also scheduled to come, but Brad had to bail at the last minute and Lohring's flight got cancelled while he was waiting at the airport.

Was a 1st class venue with a well run race. Our "budget" classes were well subscribed (P-Ltd)... With this economy, I'm not sure what more we can do. Well... I can think of one thing that would help a ton, but I don't want to turn this into a political discussion! :rolleyes:
 
It has been a year now since Bill started this thread and maybe time to look back and share anything learned after building and racing these FE tunnels. I have had the opportunity to run at various events with FE classes in the last year. West Palm Beach twice (WaveBlasters), 2 events at Brandon, Once with Gulfcoast at Riverview plus SOWEGA and Charleston. Time trials at Blue Lake and and Huntsville. Have run Spec, P, Q, in heats and S at Huntsville. Probably as much FE racing as a tunnel can have. More driving done by Jay than myself but we fielded two boats in a class quite a bit.

So what have I learned. Spec/Limted got me in but P & Q set the hook. Burned a few esc's with poor waterpeoofing and testing in brackish water behind my house. Have got my Swordy 200 wet a few times but even Corrosion X won't protect against salt and minerals. Big shorts. Been conservative on props and run deeper than my nitro counterparts to let props work. Radio box rigging has taken the most evolution. with sealing and accomodating various batteries. For tunnels I prefer the battery mass as far back as possible under the esc and servo to the front. Forward weight shows up in turns in traffic by spinning you out. Testing alone on the water you trim it and they turn fine. Get in wakes and soup from other boats and your done.

I hope we get a few more people to build beyond specs. Good starter class with pretty univerasal rules so far but will get more controversial as manufacturers make changes. For tunnels we have more power than we can use right now. Been a fun year and I look forward to Brandon and tri-oval racing this fall and Charleston in the spring. Will get over to the Waveblasters again and hope to hit a GP race in Atlanta next season.

Before I forget, equipment. UL-1 2030 and 2030 motors all good. Caslle 240 my favorite with Swordy 200 not far behind. Very easy to add a couple caps to beef them up. T-180 also good but square size not friendly in narrow boxes. Castle and Neu worth the extra money. Have Leopards.TP, Scorpion and Keda and rate them in that order. Batteries I have cheapies to expensive ones. For heat racing 30C cheapies gives performance beyond my boats and my cabilities in most cases. When I get serious about time trials it will be with better cells. Chargers cheap ones work but again Hyperion is worth the price. Lipo bags and metal boxes and a metal file cabinate for storage. A voltmeter with individual cell values works well and stay on top of storage voltage. 3.85-3.95 in my house.

Mic
 
Is there a performance difference from 4s 40c batteries to 4s 65c batteries on p spec .

Thanks Shane
 
Is there a performance difference from 4s 40c batteries to 4s 65c batteries on p spec .

Thanks Shane
If they are true 40c packs there should be no noticeable difference on a P-Limited setup as they are capable of providing more than enough current.
 
Hello all,

I am running a VS1 with a proboat leg and the 1900KV motor with a balanced and sharpened X445, 200A ESC, I use 5000 30C 4S, after only 4 minutes the lipo was very hot and swollen, is this just simply that I need a higher C rated lipo? I was looking at the Turnigy nano 5000 4S 65C - 130C lipo, will this sort out the lipo getting hot and swollen issue or am I missing something else?

Thanks
 
Could very well be. Especially if it's an older, low quality pack. How was the temps on your motor and speed controller??
 
The packs are new, the motor and ESC were fine, but the lipo was as hot as trying to hold a cup of coffee by not using the handle, the lipo is not ruined but I don't want to do it again.
 
We run the UL-1 motor, which actually has about that Kv with 42 x 55 props on the VS-1 and Topspeed hulls with no problems. You may have a little too big of a prop, but I suspect the batteries. Grim Racer or similar packs have a very low internal resistance. That resistance causes the heating. The advertized C rate can be BS. If your charger can read the internal resistance it will give you a clue. The latest Turnigy Nano packs have around 3 mohms. Today's highest quality packs are better.

Lohring Miller
 


Hi, guys im new to intlw so i figure i share my tunnel here , vs1 fe , t120 esc , ul1 motor prop m440


photo.JPG
 
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Nice vid....but....you guys should not be running when there is somebody running the fetch boat!!!!! what is that all about???!!! DO NOT DO THAT!!!! Are you out of your fricken minds??!!!
 
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Nice vid....but....you guys should not be running when there is somebody running the fetch boat!!!!! what is that all about???!!! DO NOT DO THAT!!!! Are you out of your fricken minds??!!!
i know that was a bad move , atleast im no longer doing that
 
Tommy,

What Brand, size and "C" rating lipo are you running in the VS1?

I am looking at the Turnigy Nano 5000, 65-130 "C" but am not sure if should get the 4S or 5S.

I am running a 200 Amp ESC and the proboat outboard with the proboat 1900KV motor.
 
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Is there a preferred prop for p spec (heat racing) between the 42x55 and the m445 ? are these stock or worked props?

Thanks Shane
 
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