How to get into FE tunnel the right way.

[Jeff Schindler]

We offering a class of any hull 4s Lipo or less. The goal is to begin to organize the FE guys in our area and offer something they can race their UL-1, Blackjack, Miss Geico, Motley crew, JAE FE etc

Once the bug bites... Hold on

 

[HOTWATER]

Nice Jeff!! won't be long before you guys start getting FE classes together...it's here to stay for sure...like it or not!

Good stuff!

-Kent

 

[Doug Smock]

We offering a class of any hull 4s Lipo or less. The goal is to begin to organize the FE guys in our area and offer something they can race their UL-1, Blackjack, Miss Geico, Motley crew, JAE FE etc

Once the bug bites... Hold on

Great start Jeff!! B)

Doug

 

[HOTWATER]

Doug Smock!!

 

[Antonio Solo]

Strut Angel Vs. CG Change

I ran my HTB 290 yesterday for the first time. It is set up with an OS strut UL-1 motor 40C 5000 Battery Pack and a 120 amp Turnigy speed controler. I had a X440 prop on it for testing. All temperatures were below 110 degrees F. The boat had fair speed, however it was running with a high nose attitude, not so high that it would blow over but to high for racing conditions. That brings me to my question! Is it better to move the radio box forward (CG forward) or would giving the stut negative angle a better way to lower the nose? What is the pro and cons of each method.

Thanks in advance, Tony

 

[RonShaw]

Strut Angel Vs. CG Change

I ran my HTB 290 yesterday for the first time. It is set up with an OS strut UL-1 motor 40C 5000 Battery Pack and a 120 amp Turnigy speed controler. I had a X440 prop on it for testing. All temperatures were below 110 degrees F. The boat had fair speed, however it was running with a high nose attitude, not so high that it would blow over but to high for racing conditions. That brings me to my question! Is it better to move the radio box forward (CG forward) or would giving the stut negative angle a better way to lower the nose? What is the pro and cons of each method.

Thanks in advance, Tony

Tony,

Get your CG somewhere around 28% of the length of the hull, measured from the rear of the sponsons as a starting point. Most of us running FE tunnels move steering servo and receiver all the way to the front of the boat to allow plenty of radio box area to shift the battery(s) around to get the proper CG. The ESC is at the rear to keep the wires as short as possible and usually rests on top of the battery. Tuck the engine in a degree or so and this will help too.

 

[topfuel443]

I have run my fair share of HTB's, and set-up/sold twice as many with my old business. Most HTB's do run a little higher in the nose than their racing counterparts. If it doesnt blow over or bounce/hop too bad, and you can still turn fine, dont do too much to it. You start tucking the nose on a boat that likes to run a little loose, and you will start loosing speed and potentially introducing other bad habits, hooking, submarining, etc.

~ James

 

[RonShaw]

I have run my fair share of HTB's, and set-up/sold twice as many with my old business. Most HTB's do run a little higher in the nose than their racing counterparts. If it doesnt blow over or bounce/hop too bad, and you can still turn fine, dont do too much to it. You start tucking the nose on a boat that likes to run a little loose, and you will start loosing speed and potentially introducing other bad habits, hooking, submarining, etc.

~ James

 

[Antonio Solo]

Thnaks, I appreciate your responses. this Sunday I will be doing some additional test wth strut angels and props. I'll let you guy know how it runs.

Thanks again, Tony

 

[RonShaw]

Thnaks, I appreciate your responses. this Sunday I will be doing some additional test wth strut angels and props. I'll let you guy know how it runs.

Thanks again, Tony

Good luck Tony. Just remember that boat likes medium lift props such as 1400 series props.

 

[Jeff Schindler]

I got a decent video of my boat today. It was pretty windy, but handles it very well. Still working on the cornering, but getting close. I stripped the servo arm, that's why I'm doing circles at the end.

 

[Antonio Solo]

Hi Guys

I ran my HTB 290 yesterday with various different settings. The CG was moved forward to close to 9 inches from the transom which places it CG at approximately 31%. At this setting the boat ran very well; good attitude and turned well. I tried an X640, small inprovement in speed over the X440 I was previously running. Temperature were below 110 F. I followed by testing an X 450 prop, speed once again increased and speed controler temperatures was in up in the 120 F range. For kicks I tried a X 447 prop and this turned out to be too much; temperature of the Capacitors went up to 155 F. Needless to say I went back to the X450 prop. I was wondering what is the difference between the X450 and M450 props. I realize that the X series is a low lift prop. However I have never ran an M series prop and I notice that that is the most recommended prop for P-Spec tunnels. Any comments if any improvement in performance can be expected by goin to an M450 prop.

Overall my HTB 290 tunnel seems to be quite fast and stable with the CG at 31%, X450 prop and the strut set at 0 degrees with the bottom. Next weekend I will be playing with strut depth and see how it impacts performance.

Once again, Thanks for your comment and assistance.

Tony

 

[HTV Boats]

Hi Guys

I ran my HTB 290 yesterday with various different settings. The CG was moved forward to close to 9 inches from the transom which places it CG at approximately 31%. At this setting the boat ran very well; good attitude and turned well. I tried an X640, small inprovement in speed over the X440 I was previously running. Temperature were below 110 F. I followed by testing an X 450 prop, speed once again increased and speed controler temperatures was in up in the 120 F range. For kicks I tried a X 447 prop and this turned out to be too much; temperature of the Capacitors went up to 155 F. Needless to say I went back to the X450 prop. I was wondering what is the difference between the X450 and M450 props. I realize that the X series is a low lift prop. However I have never ran an M series prop and I notice that that is the most recommended prop for P-Spec tunnels. Any comments if any improvement in performance can be expected by goin to an M450 prop.

Overall my HTB 290 tunnel seems to be quite fast and stable with the CG at 31%, X450 prop and the strut set at 0 degrees with the bottom. Next weekend I will be playing with strut depth and see how it impacts performance.

Once again, Thanks for your comment and assistance.

Tony

I am going to assume you mean an X445 not an X450. The "M" series is just an "X" with the leading edge tongue reduced to allow some slippage during acceleration. less blade area takes less torque to turn and will keep heat down and extend battery on an FE. The jump to an X or M 447 is a bit steep for a spec tunnel heat setup. Try a Grimracer 42X66 also. Play with heigth and trim till you get the handling results you want. Should be a good heat race boat.

Mic

 

[Antonio Solo]

Mic

You are correct, I did mean an X445. Brain failure.

Thanks Tony

 

[Tim_Duggan]

The M series is the same prop as the X version, but with the lowest pitched part of the blade removed (the leading edge). On progressive pitch props, the leading edge pitch is low and the pitch progresses upwards until the trailing edge. Makes for a nice handling prop but essentially the low pitch L/E acts like a speed governor. If both props hooked up the same and all was equal, the M series would be faster due to the higher leading edge pitch.

Some good reading here http://rcboat.com/prop.htm

Tim

 

[Chuck20x]

Alright Guys, I have been running Nitro tunnels for quite a while now, but these FE tunnels look like a lot of fun to build and run. So both my uncle and I have decided to sell the nitro tunnels and build a couple 3.5 size FE’s and we are looking for a solid setup to start with. We don’t plan on racing these boats or trying to make consistent laps on the track. We just want something that runs hard in a straight line. We both plan on running the VS1. So far we have been looking at the UL-1 motor and the Turnigy 120a ESC along with either a 4s or 6s battery. I also saw a post talking about running a Turnigy 180a ESC, leopard 4074 2150 kv motor and 4s 5000mah battery. There are a lot of options to choose from. If anybody has any suggestions I would appreciate it.

 

[HTV Boats]

Alright Guys, I have been running Nitro tunnels for quite a while now, but these FE tunnels look like a lot of fun to build and run. So both my uncle and I have decided to sell the nitro tunnels and build a couple 3.5 size FE’s and we are looking for a solid setup to start with. We don’t plan on racing these boats or trying to make consistent laps on the track. We just want something that runs hard in a straight line. We both plan on running the VS1. So far we have been looking at the UL-1 motor and the Turnigy 120a ESC along with either a 4s or 6s battery. I also saw a post talking about running a Turnigy 180a ESC, leopard 4074 2150 kv motor and 4s 5000mah battery. There are a lot of options to choose from. If anybody has any suggestions I would appreciate it.

For some reason everyone is hung up on making the VS-1 work with FE power. I am not going to tell you it won't work but it is not the best alternative. Mike (Grimracer) will tell you it was designed for nitro sport 21 outboards. He also designed the TS-3 as mod .21 hull which it works well. UL-1 power (AQ-2030) is somewhere between a sport and mod .21 outboard and closer to the mod especially in torque. Going to a Leopard 4074 or even a 3674 will significantly increase power over a UL-1 motor. Being the VS-1 is marginal I would opt for the TS-3 if you just want a convenient availiable inexspensive hull. A Vision, Lynx or Shaman, or the latest PS295 would be much better boats. Even if your not going to race you still will need to retrieve your upsidedown boat from the pond. Going with a larger hull especially for full P and possible Q, 5S or 6S batteries you'll be ahead of the game. The TS-3 has the P Namba record in the 70 mph range and the one I have as a spec/limited setup turns very well.

As for ESC the T-180 is a very good unit but becuase of its pysical dimensions being wide it is difficult to mate in tight spaces and may force you to not be able to place batteries where you need them. I preffer the Swordfish 200 which is similar in price and holds up well also. It has a longer narrower profile and I tuck my batteries underneath it at the rear of the radio box. Either unit will do very well with up to 4082/1520 size motors on P or Q voltage.

Mic

 

[Chuck20x]

Mic,

Thanks for the information. That was exactly what I was looking for. I am going to look into the TS3 and PS295 hulls and plan on running the Leopard 3674 / 2200 KV motor with the Swordfish 200 ESC. Do you have any recomendations on a good prop and battery to start with? Dont know if i would be better off with a 5s or 6s battery.

 

[RonShaw]

Mic,

Thanks for the information. That was exactly what I was looking for. I am going to look into the TS3 and PS295 hulls and plan on running the Leopard 3674 / 2200 KV motor with the Swordfish 200 ESC. Do you have any recomendations on a good prop and battery to start with? Dont know if i would be better off with a 5s or 6s battery.

Chuck,

I think Mic is saying P Limited which is 4 cell setup. Those hulls will not be big enough for full P or Q setups. Use every bit of the allowable 34" for your full P even if it means trimming the sponson tips. You will need at least a 40 nitro sized hull for those setups. Good luck. You will love FE.

 

[HTV Boats]

Mic,

Thanks for the information. That was exactly what I was looking for. I am going to look into the TS3 and PS295 hulls and plan on running the Leopard 3674 / 2200 KV motor with the Swordfish 200 ESC. Do you have any recomendations on a good prop and battery to start with? Dont know if i would be better off with a 5s or 6s battery.

Thanks Ron for the overpower reminder. The jump to 5 or 6S on a hull this size should be with an under 1500w motor, 3674 size ok and KV's in the 1400-1600 range. You will still need to be careful as staying upright will be difficult. The advantage would be lower heat and longer run times. But everyone has a tendency to prop up and go faster so that theory might not apply long. Again not for competative heat racing with these setups just pushing between spec and full on P. For a fun runner a TS-3 will give some great straightaway speeds but above 50 mph do not expect much in corners.

Props: I would start with a GR 42X55 and the next props to try are M445 and maybe a GR 42X66.

Batteries: stay on 4S and have used both GensAce (Hobbypartz) and Genesis (Banana Hobbies) 30-40C are fine. The longer narrower batteries will fit in a radio box tucked under the esc at the rear of the radio box. Make it long and the steering servo as far forward as possible to accomodate placement of other components to balance the boat.

http://www.bananahob...gp4060004s.html

http://www.hobbypart...-5300-4s1p.html

These are inexpensive batteries. You can always upgrade to Grimracers or Hyperions later. Actually the links posted are batteries we used at the Charleston race and did well with. At this stage of FE tunnels above spec/limited you have more power availiable than you can handle. After a few years of setup refinements the battery wars will begin.

Mic