Help with cockpit/cowl for a PT Bud T-5

[Tim Strange]

I recently got hold of a slightly used Phil Thomas T-5 that is missing the cowl. Although it could use a complete repaint, I am hoping to get away with just painting the new cockpit, cowling and wing set...if I have a good color match.

Anyway, I am having a bit of trouble trying to figure out the best way to attach the new cowling and cockpit. The cockpit seems a bit flimsy as is. So is it necessary to add some kind of wood base to help keep it's shape?

The original was built as a one piece unit, but I am considering attaching them as separate pieces.

Also, any ideas on how to add a little detail to the windows would be helpful.

 

[SayMikey]

Ha this is the boat that wrote the lost part rule..... Glue the 2 together and use a metal pin on the nose. Also make a block to keep the cowl from moving side to side and for and aft...... Im home on house arrest bring it by one day LOL :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[Tim Strange]

Ha this is the boat that wrote the lost part rule..... Glue the 2 together and use a metal pin on the nose. Also make a block to keep the cowl from moving side to side and for and aft...... Im home on house arrest bring it by one day LOL :lol: :lol: :lol:

That is precisely what I am trying to remedy! BTW I think I have the "water resistant" radio box figured out.

I may give you a call tomorrow Lefty Not too early since it is "No Alarm" Monday

 

[P THOMAS]

https://www.intlwaters.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=325&pos=29 How about this detail for the windows

Here is the pictures of the U10 cowl install same for the Bud T5 https://www.intlwaters.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=1093

 

[Tim Strange]

Thanks Phil, the U-10 cowl install (pics 4,5,8 &29) are pretty much what I envisioned for a two-piece install. I suppose that one drawback is that water may have a chance to rain down directly onto the carb on my boat...will have to consult Mr. Budweiser...

 

[P THOMAS]

Thanks Phil, the U-10 cowl install (pics 4,5,8 &29) are pretty much what I envisioned for a two-piece install. I suppose that one drawback is that water may have a chance to rain down directly onto the carb on my boat...will have to consult Mr. Budweiser...

Your carb should be ahead of the joint.

 

[Tim Strange]

The leading edge of the old style bare aluminum CMB carb is just ahead of the joint and the newer black version will sit just at or behind the joint. I sized up the old MAC and the carb is there just waiting to gulp water like a hungry baby bird.

 

[P THOMAS]

The leading edge of the old style bare aluminum CMB carb is just ahead of the joint and the newer black version will sit just at or behind the joint. I sized up the old MAC and the carb is there just waiting to gulp water like a hungry baby bird.

You may be better off with that boat to glue the nose to the airscoop section, to make it one piece.

 

[harvknox]

Tim,I ran Phil's T-5 hull for 3 or 4 years with the two piece cowl and older CMB Green Head with cast carb and never had water entry problems.I made a wood frame at the bottom of the cockpit which anchored a wood dowel at the front,which slid into an angled hole in the hull.The frame ended at the rear of the cockpit,attached to a cockpit bulkhead which contained screw attachments to the hull and a hole for a dowel on the front of the turbine intake housing.The turbine housing was retained at the rear by a cabinet latch on each side.The driver was attached to a platform,painted black on top of the fuel tank.The Mac's angled carb might act differently than the straight CMB.

Harvey.

 

[Tim Strange]

Thanks Harvey, between your reply, Phil's pictures and my conversation with Mikey today I may just have a plan.

I think that I will first work on fitting the cockpit with a frame and a pin and then get it to fit correctly. Then work on the cowling...then join the two. I do have some cabinet latches, but I am not convinced as to how secure they are. After all, their failure is the reason this boat needs a new cowling. I do have some of the O-Ring hold downs and some large Rare-Earth magnets. I may go with a combinations of two of the three types of hold downs. Maybe the cabinet latches in their original location and the magnets at the very back...

 

[harvknox]

Tim,I located my cabinet latches at the rear for the most hold down power.There are two types of cabinet latches.One type has spring loaded rollers with a "spear"that is pushed down between the rollers.It is not adjustable and do not use.The other type has two fixed location rollers with a spring steel "inverted U" that snaps over the rollers.Use this type.It is strong and you can squeeze the spring to increase the grip.It will hold.I put wood blocks on the cowl for the the" inverted U"and wood blocks behind the glass side of the tub for the rollers.Alignment is important to get an even grip on the rollers.

Harvey

 

[Tim Strange]

The spade type is what was on there before...I'll have to check tomorrow. Hopefully between Lowes, Home Depot, Menards and Ace I can find the "U" type.

Thanks again

 

[BobGutsell]

I use the plastic (nylon) ones on the rear of my cowls, they're these same as what you guys are talking about but just don't have any moving parts. I use them on all my cowls and they're rock solid. Even when the boats blow over.

 

[John Seybold]

Harvey are these the ones your talking about? http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Hardware-Cabinet-Furniture-Hardware-Cabinet-Hardware-Cabinet-Catches/h_d1/N-5yc1vZc27j/R-100021402/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051. I would have thought that the spear type would have been a better option. Thanks for the tip.

John

 

[harvknox]

John,that's exactly what I'm using.You can not adjust the grip on the spear type.The spring holding the rollers together is not adjustable,and the initial squeeze is not enough as Mike and Tim know .You can easily see that you can increase the "U" type grip easily.I mention again it is important to allow the "U"to center over the rollers for a proper grip.I'm using the same latch on my T-6 Gas Scale,and it is tight.

Harvey

 

[Tim Strange]

I use the plastic (nylon) ones on the rear of my cowls, they're these same as what you guys are talking about but just don't have any moving parts. I use them on all my cowls and they're rock solid. Even when the boats blow over.

Bob, Do you have any more info or maybe some pictures of what you are talking about?

Anyway, managed to create a few pieces of scrap wood today.

 

[SayMikey]

John,that's exactly what I'm using.You can not adjust the grip on the spear type.The spring holding the rollers together is not adjustable,and the initial squeeze is not enough as Mike and Tim know .You can easily see that you can increase the "U" type grip easily.I mention again it is important to allow the "U"to center over the rollers for a proper grip.I'm using the same latch on my T-6 Gas Scale,and it is tight.

Harvey

Harvey to tighten the spear type you put a small tie strap around the rollers at the bottom

 

[harvknox]

Mike,I agree that a wire tie would increase grip,but makes a more rigid connection that you have to push the spear thru.I guess I'm old school,and if it's not broke ,don't fix it.I'll stick with the inverted "u".

See you and Jeff in Huntsville Friday.

Harvey

 

[BobGutsell]

Here you go, cheap but very reliable.

 

[Joe Wiebelhaus]

John,that's exactly what I'm using.You can not adjust the grip on the spear type.The spring holding the rollers together is not adjustable,and the initial squeeze is not enough as Mike and Tim know .You can easily see that you can increase the "U" type grip easily.I mention again it is important to allow the "U"to center over the rollers for a proper grip.I'm using the same latch on my T-6 Gas Scale,and it is tight.

Harvey

Another option I used years ago, is to put one "U" type grip inside the other, so you end up with a "U" inside a "U", really added some extra holding power on the rollers.