G
ggillman
Guest
Hey Guy's,
I run across a excellent thread a Jims R/C, info will be from some of the guys that commented, its great stuff, I am doing this a little at a time cause me and the Server did a tap dance last nite and lost the info once, "Take Two, Rollin
Question was: "What prop mods and Why"
Reducing Diameter and definitions,
Here is what Denzils had to say:
Some of the mods are easy to understand, The Barr cut, rounded notch at the trailing edge by the hub, Back cut, 1/8"at the hub to 0" at the tip, and also trimming back the lead lobe all reduce the low end load on the prop so it can get the rpms up quicker. The trailing edge of the blade must be squared off with a file to a sharp edge so the water comes off it clean on the concave side.
And here is Mike T:
Thes best reason I can give for cutting down the diameter is to get the pitch that comes on the larger prop, but reduce the size, thus reducing the bite, to free up some out of the hole and through the turns. You reduce the tongue to cut off that lower pitched part of the blade, also frees it up and allows it to slip a little and keep the revs up in the turns. Meanwhile the greater pitch can kick in and give you longer legs at top speed. You must also thin the blades a lot to keep your concave shape on the power face or all the rest of that will be a waste of time. Remember a lot of these props were designed several years ago and need to be updated for what we are trying to do now. Its also money well spent to buy a couple props worked over by the masters and keep them as examples of what you want to achieve.
And your Humble Moderator:
I have tried this with the next size larger prop and had great results, just reduce the dia, thin the blades and cup the tips to reduce the thrust cone. Perfect to me would be when the engine hits the pipe, the roostertail lays down and your GONE!!!!!
Ok now, go grab up some props, yer files and dremel, with some sandpaper and get after it,
Gene ;D
I run across a excellent thread a Jims R/C, info will be from some of the guys that commented, its great stuff, I am doing this a little at a time cause me and the Server did a tap dance last nite and lost the info once, "Take Two, Rollin
Question was: "What prop mods and Why"
Reducing Diameter and definitions,
Here is what Denzils had to say:
Some of the mods are easy to understand, The Barr cut, rounded notch at the trailing edge by the hub, Back cut, 1/8"at the hub to 0" at the tip, and also trimming back the lead lobe all reduce the low end load on the prop so it can get the rpms up quicker. The trailing edge of the blade must be squared off with a file to a sharp edge so the water comes off it clean on the concave side.
And here is Mike T:
Thes best reason I can give for cutting down the diameter is to get the pitch that comes on the larger prop, but reduce the size, thus reducing the bite, to free up some out of the hole and through the turns. You reduce the tongue to cut off that lower pitched part of the blade, also frees it up and allows it to slip a little and keep the revs up in the turns. Meanwhile the greater pitch can kick in and give you longer legs at top speed. You must also thin the blades a lot to keep your concave shape on the power face or all the rest of that will be a waste of time. Remember a lot of these props were designed several years ago and need to be updated for what we are trying to do now. Its also money well spent to buy a couple props worked over by the masters and keep them as examples of what you want to achieve.
And your Humble Moderator:
I have tried this with the next size larger prop and had great results, just reduce the dia, thin the blades and cup the tips to reduce the thrust cone. Perfect to me would be when the engine hits the pipe, the roostertail lays down and your GONE!!!!!
Ok now, go grab up some props, yer files and dremel, with some sandpaper and get after it,
Gene ;D
