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I just wanted to thank everybody who got involed in this project of mine, Here is what I ended up doing , I cut front ram wings off and turned them down to approx. 0 degree realitive to the water , I left the rear wings alone witch appear to 1 degree positive , reason for this , My balance point 4ins. behind front sponsons , therfore I can use some extra lift at the tail of boat . I tested her yesterday with very good results, Futher adj. rear horizontal wing and stut tweaking should put me in the ballpark. also am giving thought on Joe,s idea on adding 1/4 in. to rear canoe shoes, I can see how this would help hold her down from torque lift as during my test session I noticed the stock ones wre helping. I dont think they would stop a strait up blowover, but torque lift yes. Don your idea was the best ,thanks ,this winter I plan on removing both frt.and rr. wings to 0 degrees and move balance point forward , But for now race season is here I,ve run out of time , So I,ll race her as is. I will let everyone know Dayton Race turns out for me . I would like thank Teddy Dudley for all his help and ideas for this boat project in witch he and I , mostly he put together in such short time 3 weeks start to finish . He is very talented model builder and pleasure to know him, Once again thanks for all responses to my 94 Bud . Chuck Spragg

P.s. I also wanted to thank Bill D. for your input and ideas , Thanks again . Chuck
 
Mike

Just checked the T4 and you are right about the front ram wing being 4-5 degrees releative to the water. The rear ram wing looks about the same.

Merv Sowden

NZ
 
Mike

Just checked the T4 and you are right about the front ram wing being 4-5 degrees releative to the water. The rear ram wing looks about the same.

Merv Sowden

NZ

Chuck, I would add the 1/4 in to the rear pads. Roy Munoz did this to his out west to solve this problem.
 
I just wanted to thank everybody who got involed in this project of mine, Here is what I ended up doing , I cut front ram wings off and turned them down to approx. 0 degree realitive to the water , I left the rear wings alone witch appear to 1 degree positive , reason for this , My balance point 4ins. behind front sponsons , therfore I can use some extra lift at the tail of boat . I tested her yesterday with very good results, Futher adj. rear horizontal wing and stut tweaking should put me in the ballpark. also am giving thought on Joe,s idea on adding 1/4 in. to rear canoe shoes, I can see how this would help hold her down from torque lift as during my test session I noticed the stock ones wre helping. I dont think they would stop a strait up blowover, but torque lift yes. Don your idea was the best ,thanks ,this winter I plan on removing both frt.and rr. wings to 0 degrees and move balance point forward , But for now race season is here I,ve run out of time , So I,ll race her as is. I will let everyone know Dayton Race turns out for me . I would like thank Teddy Dudley for all his help and ideas for this boat project in witch he and I , mostly he put together in such short time 3 weeks start to finish . He is very talented model builder and pleasure to know him, Once again thanks for all responses to my 94 Bud . Chuck Spragg

P.s. I also wanted to thank Bill D. for your input and ideas , Thanks again . Chuck
Another happy scale racer .... I love it!!! Glad to be of assistance Chuck, feel free to contact me anytime. B)
 
Mike

Just checked the T4 and you are right about the front ram wing being 4-5 degrees releative to the water. The rear ram wing looks about the same.

Merv Sowden

NZ
Merv, I have the Newton Plans as well and have checked them and they do show a lot of positive incidence on the front wings, but as always and Roger will tell you his plans are a guide to construct a 1/8th scale hydro and are not absolutely perfect, but are close. So it would be very easy to draw the"Ram Wing" showing the angle of incidence slightly off. Remember Roger does this as a service to those of us that love 1/8th scale as much as he does, they are draw on a drawing board and not on AutoCad or computer aided software, so some in-accuracies will exist. Something elese to consider is that our models can also act quite differently from the full size boat as well, case in point the T-4 being one of them and the Winston "Lobster boat being another, once these 2 hulls are trimed and adjusted properly they will run very well and perform great in heat racing.
 
Hi Bill

I know what you are saying about Rogers plans as I have been building from them for the last 20 odd years, but thanks for the tips anyway.

Just wanted to point out that my T4 is very stable at 60 -70mph as built from the plans.

On the run in the video I was having problems with the boat submersing on the start so moved the CG from 2 inches to 2.5 inches behind the sponson as I do an on the water start and not a throw launch.

I didn’t expect it to go 80mph as this was the first decent run I had on the boat and it was still set up for coursing with a CMD SGX Eagle turn fin and a full length SpeedMaster Rudder.

If the CG is at 2 to 2.5 inches behind the sponson I am sure the hull will work fine at your race speeds.

Just my 2 cents

Merv

NZ
 
Yes Merv your boat is a very impressive work of art, and I am thrilled that you have it running at 80 mph, a milesotne for the electric power in a 22 pound scale boat, by no means I would say. The fact that it is constructed from carbon fiber is probably the only reason it survived the flip at that speed, something I don't think an ordinary thin poly-ester resin & regular glass boat would withstand with out major damage. One advantage that you have with an electric boat is that the weight, center of gravity & balance point will never change as you are not depleting liquid fuel while running, causing the balance point & CG to change ever so slightly.
 
Hi guys Chuck Spragg here , Just wanted you all how Dayton Race turned out for me. First off the guys who put the race on did a fine job, went smoothly all day and everybody drove real good being first race of season, I dont believe I seen any wrecks all day, As fore me it was a very good outing I aced sport 40 class and was runner up in 1/8 Scale ,cut bouy in final as I was leading race in 3rd lap . Just to let you Know your help on my boat is just what I needed . I have just about got her trimed out and dialed in for real high speed action, boat looks and rides just the real Miss Budweiser. I,ll be talking to you all soon . Thanks again. CHUCK SPRAGG.
 
Hi guys Chuck Spragg here , Just wanted you all how Dayton Race turned out for me. First off the guys who put the race on did a fine job, went smoothly all day and everybody drove real good being first race of season, I dont believe I seen any wrecks all day, As fore me it was a very good outing I aced sport 40 class and was runner up in 1/8 Scale ,cut bouy in final as I was leading race in 3rd lap . Just to let you Know your help on my boat is just what I needed . I have just about got her trimed out and dialed in for real high speed action, boat looks and rides just the real Miss Budweiser. I,ll be talking to you all soon . Thanks again. CHUCK SPRAGG.
Hi guys, just wanted to up date you on how this project is going, pretty good with a win in 1/8 scale at mini gold cup with this project boat,and 4th over all in sport 40. Then went to Celina, had runner up finish in 1/8 scale, starting in last place working my way thru field to 2nd place, only to be DQ for freq. infraction , two boats on same channel 64, I grabed wrong clip 84 by mistake , it was poorly marked, lucky no boats out of control as other guy realized this problem and shut his boat off and radio off that let me race on , learned my lesson to double check freq. clip,my sport 40 came 4th over all again with 2 heat wins and a gulp of water in 3rd 0 points I,m still leading sport 40 points and tied for 3rd in scale class, well heading to London this weekend for more racing fun, I will keep you all posted how raced turned out, talk to you soon Chuck
 
looks like you have her all figured out. congrats on the win in the mini gold cup.
Thanks that was my first scale win, without help this forum gave me boat probibly would end up another shelf model , nice one but no fun,yeah baby lets go racing. chuck
 
looks like you have her all figured out. congrats on the win in the mini gold cup.
Thanks that was my first scale win, without help this forum gave me boat probibly would end up another shelf model , nice one but no fun,yeah baby lets go racing. chuck
Just wanted to thank everyone that helped me on this boat project, things have gone pretty goog since then, but now a new problem has come into play as boat speed has increased, and the faster it goes the worst its getting, when entering the turn bouys the boat begins to trip or slightly bounce and the harder I try to turn the more it trips or bounces till it wants to nose in or spin, I mean nose digging in and kicking tail out of water,also as entering bouys if I get off thottle to quickly the boat will hop and stuff nose in dead stop, I,m sure this not normal for a scale boat to do,I do not see most other scales doing this. What are some of the things I should be looking at to hopefully clear up this problem, boat is running very fast down the straightaways with sponsons just tip toeing lifting just like they should, could it be that the boat does have enough air under it to carry the wieght as speed slows down or am I lifting off gas to fast and trying to turn to hard at same time??? Thanks for your thoughts on this one.. Chuck Spragg
 
Chuck,

How long is your rudder? It sounds like a short rudder problem.

Good Luck Testing,

Mark Sholund
 
looks like you have her all figured out. congrats on the win in the mini gold cup.
Thanks that was my first scale win, without help this forum gave me boat probibly would end up another shelf model , nice one but no fun,yeah baby lets go racing. chuck
Just wanted to thank everyone that helped me on this boat project, things have gone pretty goog since then, but now a new problem has come into play as boat speed has increased, and the faster it goes the worst its getting, when entering the turn bouys the boat begins to trip or slightly bounce and the harder I try to turn the more it trips or bounces till it wants to nose in or spin, I mean nose digging in and kicking tail out of water,also as entering bouys if I get off thottle to quickly the boat will hop and stuff nose in dead stop, I,m sure this not normal for a scale boat to do,I do not see most other scales doing this. What are some of the things I should be looking at to hopefully clear up this problem, boat is running very fast down the straightaways with sponsons just tip toeing lifting just like they should, could it be that the boat does have enough air under it to carry the wieght as speed slows down or am I lifting off gas to fast and trying to turn to hard at same time??? Thanks for your thoughts on this one.. Chuck Spragg
I'll second the rudder possibility. I run the Speedmaster 40 hydro rudders full length on my scales. ;)
 
looks like you have her all figured out. congrats on the win in the mini gold cup.
Thanks that was my first scale win, without help this forum gave me boat probibly would end up another shelf model , nice one but no fun,yeah baby lets go racing. chuck
Just wanted to thank everyone that helped me on this boat project, things have gone pretty goog since then, but now a new problem has come into play as boat speed has increased, and the faster it goes the worst its getting, when entering the turn bouys the boat begins to trip or slightly bounce and the harder I try to turn the more it trips or bounces till it wants to nose in or spin, I mean nose digging in and kicking tail out of water,also as entering bouys if I get off thottle to quickly the boat will hop and stuff nose in dead stop, I,m sure this not normal for a scale boat to do,I do not see most other scales doing this. What are some of the things I should be looking at to hopefully clear up this problem, boat is running very fast down the straightaways with sponsons just tip toeing lifting just like they should, could it be that the boat does have enough air under it to carry the wieght as speed slows down or am I lifting off gas to fast and trying to turn to hard at same time??? Thanks for your thoughts on this one.. Chuck Spragg
I'll second the rudder possibility. I run the Speedmaster 40 hydro rudders full length on my scales. ;)
I been thinking the same thing on to short of rudder, I did cut it possibly too short. does rudder width have alot to do with this , the rudder I am using is a H20 that Dick supplied with boat, this one was long to begin with then i cut it , it seems to be deep enough but kinda on narrow side, I will put backup one on it is uncut and test , will let you know on Wed. night how things went.. Thanks Mark, Don. Chuck
 
looks like you have her all figured out. congrats on the win in the mini gold cup.
Thanks that was my first scale win, without help this forum gave me boat probibly would end up another shelf model , nice one but no fun,yeah baby lets go racing. chuck
Just wanted to thank everyone that helped me on this boat project, things have gone pretty goog since then, but now a new problem has come into play as boat speed has increased, and the faster it goes the worst its getting, when entering the turn bouys the boat begins to trip or slightly bounce and the harder I try to turn the more it trips or bounces till it wants to nose in or spin, I mean nose digging in and kicking tail out of water,also as entering bouys if I get off thottle to quickly the boat will hop and stuff nose in dead stop, I,m sure this not normal for a scale boat to do,I do not see most other scales doing this. What are some of the things I should be looking at to hopefully clear up this problem, boat is running very fast down the straightaways with sponsons just tip toeing lifting just like they should, could it be that the boat does have enough air under it to carry the wieght as speed slows down or am I lifting off gas to fast and trying to turn to hard at same time??? Thanks for your thoughts on this one.. Chuck Spragg
I'll second the rudder possibility. I run the Speedmaster 40 hydro rudders full length on my scales. ;)
I been thinking the same thing on to short of rudder, I did cut it possibly too short. does rudder width have alot to do with this , the rudder I am using is a H20 that Dick supplied with boat, this one was long to begin with then i cut it , it seems to be deep enough but kinda on narrow side, I will put backup one on it is uncut and test , will let you know on Wed. night how things went.. Thanks Mark, Don. Chuck
rain rain go away did not get to test today, will you know after I get to chuck
 
I think I have all the bugs worked out now, I had to much lead in nose of boat making it nose heavy also took some of the negitive strut angle out and changed to angled turn fin instead one with hook on bottom, also shortend the rudder to relieve some down pressure on front of boat. this eliminated the sticking of the sponsons in the corners, one more change to the rudder ,put it in closer to the transom so its not acting like a lever pushing down on front so much, I will let you all know how this works after this weekend race at the GM tech center. chuck
 
I have been running a thread "Building Jones canoes" for a 94 Tri-wing hull. Thanks to all that have been helping me, especially Don F... for hipping me to this thread. I know I'll have issues, but with info like this I can elliminate some at the start. Thanks again Don F and Joe Wieb and all the others that are helping. Is it April yet. :D :D B) B)
 
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