Don't think this will ever happen, because everybody seems to have a different view-point. But that isn't neccessarily a bad thing. B)Thanks guys.Big help. Someone needs to write a how to book for boaters.
never say neverDon't think this will ever happen, because everybody seems to have a different view-point. But that isn't neccessarily a bad thing. B)Thanks guys.Big help. Someone needs to write a how to book for boaters.
I'll be there for your "Book Signing".. It'll give me a reason to go out to Blue Ridge, GA. and race with you guys - some day.never say neverDon't think this will ever happen, because everybody seems to have a different view-point. But that isn't neccessarily a bad thing. B)Thanks guys.Big help. Someone needs to write a how to book for boaters.
Hi SpiderUsins .187 flex. How much clearance should I leave between the strut and prop drive dog? Is 1/4 inch too much?
Hi SpiderUsins .187 flex. How much clearance should I leave between the strut and prop drive dog? Is 1/4 inch too much?
In my opinion, your topic raises some good questions.
What is the ideal clearance gap?
If the gap is too small it will result in the flexi cable winding in and combined with the propeller thrust causing excessive friction at the strut end potentially leading to a snapped over stressed flexi cable.
Okay, what if the clearance gap is sufficiently big enough such that when at full throttle the flexi shaft has plenty of room to wind in but still leaving say a 3mm gap between the strut end bearing and the drive dog?
In that scenario, I see several potential draw backs or problems:
1) The thrust from the propeller will be delivered to the engine. If the throttle linkage to the carb is of a fixed rod type from the servo it could affect the set up should the engine move bodily forward at full power.
2) The flexi drive shaft (even after its natural winding in) is with a further strut end gap going to be further compressed within the stuffing tube. I’d suggest that this might cause some snaking within its confines causing loss of power and potential vibration plus undue wear on the stuffing tube and flexi shaft.
Personally I am still experimenting with the ideal gap.
I am aiming for a gap that will at full throttle result in just a little wear on the washer that sits between my strut end and the drive dog.
Regards
Craig
John Finch wrote several of them.Thanks guys.Big help. Someone needs to write a how to book for boaters.
YepBottom line from a few years of doing this ..if you leave an honest 1/4 " it's all good ...to small ..no good . It's not really a complex issue ..1/4 " works for ANYTHING !
This the reason so many boaters use square drive systems. It doesn't matter how much the cable winds up, the engine collet can absorb the cable length differences and the prop load is always on the strut.
When you use a full length cable, the load is normally transferred to the engine and can cause some side load on the bearings.
Either cable system sure beats the old solid shafts and u-joints. How is that for dating myself?
Al Hobbs
And it's most likely never been in the water.You're not dating yourself too much Al. . Heck, I still have a boat with a Dumas needle bearing strut and teflon bushed rudder bracket :huh:
ive followed that theory that tom says(1/4 gap works on anything) for the past 25 years...worked great and never had any issues..Right up til late last year..with my new twin having these new cmb vac"s 91 with brand new shafts i left my normal 1/4 gap and big mistake!! theres so much torque with these motors that the drive dog pushed against the back of the struts and changed the strut angle, i know several other people with the same set up happening to them..so now i leave a bit over 3/8 gap..Bottom line from a few years of doing this ..if you leave an honest 1/4 " it's all good ...to small ..no good . It's not really a complex issue ..1/4 " works for ANYTHING !
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