Drive shafts

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chrisShepherd

Well-Known Member
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Nov 10, 2015
Messages
51
I'm trying to save money boating and have been trying to make my own drive shafts. Haven't had much luck. I'm got my materials from a lawn shop and bolts from lowes. I got silver solder and did get it to stick to the bolt once it was cleaned and sanded but the shaft no luck. Just runs off. Temp doesn't matter, glowing red or almost not hot enough to melt. I drilled a hole in the bolt and grined the shaft to the inner part soo it would snug into the bolt for a better connection. Using a jig I got from a friend to make sure everything is straight soo that's no issue. Mostly just need to know what materials specific have been successful for someone.

Thanks
 
If your using something from a home improvement store thats not what you need.

I spent a lot of time doing what your doing and was successful, just not fast from a production standpoint.

What people use differs and is a closely guarded secret from a manufacture perspective.

I'm sure a individual will tell what they use...

I found using brazing flux separately not in the braze rod,,, better

Tim
 
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Chris,

I can see your point on making your own, but I would just buy some preferably from Tim Jones, I have bought many shafts and none have broke or had any issues, plus in my opinion I would rather NOT loose a shaft and or a 50.00 dollar prop. It would suck to make your own have it fail and loose the shaft and a prop. my 2 cents worth

Beau
 
Buy a professionally built shaft = Money Saved. End of story!

WHY? Because one can not purchase the correct materials without spending a large sum of money.
 
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The number 1 thing is to have the metal clean and free of any oils. You need to sand or clean the cable down to the raw metal and clean it with some kind of thinner. Don't touch the clean parts with your hands after they are cleaned as the oils from your skin will cause problems with the solder too. The acid core solder should work for what you want to do, not the best but should work. Not too much heat, the temp of the metal should melt the solder, not the flame from your torch.

What diameter and length do you use? I have several used ones I'd send you for the postage cost.

mb
 
I tried the same thing many years ago. I ended up buying cable/shaft professionally made for the reasons many had stated above.

If you want to try it, I suggest to use Sta-Brite silver solder. It comes with a bottle of flux. If you get the shaft to cherry red, you have changed the temper of the material.

Another route you can go is to silver solder the cable to a ferrule which connects to the stub shaft with two set screws. You can use a square cable end to connect to the engine. Or you can use a standard cable connector. If the cable breaks, you will not lose your prop;

Kez
 
Mike. Thanks for your advise. I've tried cleaning the metals but didn't do any sanding. And I don't think they were squeaky clean soo there is deff somewhere I went wrong. I'm gonna continue trying. And I'll post a update. The size stubs I'm using are quarter inch at least 3 inches long. For Gas
 
What is the overall length cable and all? Like anything else practice makes you better, if it won't work change something and try again. Lower silver content solder is easier to work with and some flux paste will help clean the metal but you still have to have it clean and oil free to start.

mb
 
If your using bolts from Lowes as a stub shaft, remember there not perfectly round since their most likely stamped out. Might wear out your strut prematurely.
 
Im not going to write a novel on how to build shafts but I will toss out there that If your using acid flux (which I did for years) make sure you neutralize it with baking soda and water when your done then clean that with carb cleaner brake cleaner etc
 
I gonna look into getting better bolts. My dad works at a marina and maybe they have something in there parts department that will work. And I'm not sure on the overall length yet bc I'm still waiting on my final placement of motor and a few things in the mail. But it's a f41 Stryker if that helps....: all this info is greatly appreciated
 
I want you to learn how to solder, but keep in mind that I have several good used drive lines for this cat. I also have several stub shafts rather than using a 1/4" bolt, could be another can of worms if you try to use a stainless bolt.

mb
 
Buy a professionally built shaft = Money Saved. End of story!

WHY? Because one can not purchase the correct materials without spending a large sum of money.
Andy sells some of the best flex cables I've ever used and that's a lot of them. Gary Preusse described them as supple and with a hole already countersunk in them for the drive dog saves a lot of extra work. I'd put the Hughey's in a close second then the Aeromarine's.

If you can afford the F-41, don't scrimp on a home-made flex cable.
 
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Buy a professionally built shaft = Money Saved. End of story!

WHY? Because one can not purchase the correct materials without spending a large sum of money.
This is very sound advice. The silver soldering materials in the photo would cost you more than $400.00. Silver solders can be as costly as $40.00/ troy ounce & there are many different types. A good acetylene type plumbers torch will be necessary also.

JA
 
But Jim it's part of the hobby to learn how to make things, I guess that's why you build everything from scratch, right?

mb
 
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