castle 125 speed controller
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Kris Flynn
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Hey 4-EST
I would be very careful with the barra 125...yes they are cheap and apparently waterproof, BUT they go POOF easily!!!
Right now i think i will be pulling out 1 of my 2 electric boats at the race in 2 weeks because i had a barra 80 and 125 go up within 2 weeks for no apparent reason...
Kris
I would be very careful with the barra 125...yes they are cheap and apparently waterproof, BUT they go POOF easily!!!
Right now i think i will be pulling out 1 of my 2 electric boats at the race in 2 weeks because i had a barra 80 and 125 go up within 2 weeks for no apparent reason...
Kris
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Capt Ron
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i am sorry for your [bad luck] with Castle but i'd like to point out that our race team has been running the Barracuda 125 competition controls in our SAWS set-ups and here's the score so far:
5 - 0
that's [FIVE] I.M.P.B.A. 1/16th mile world records with [ZERO] failures...
more over, we run Castles in oval and sport set-ups as well in our club and we've had only one failure, [an early series] Barracuda 80 over the course of the last 18 months...
cluster failures don't just happen, there is usually a reason and if you look hard enough i'm sure you'll find it...
as real as your problem with Castle is to you, our success with the product is to us and SAWS is a tough arena to test in!
Ron
5 - 0
that's [FIVE] I.M.P.B.A. 1/16th mile world records with [ZERO] failures...
more over, we run Castles in oval and sport set-ups as well in our club and we've had only one failure, [an early series] Barracuda 80 over the course of the last 18 months...
cluster failures don't just happen, there is usually a reason and if you look hard enough i'm sure you'll find it...
as real as your problem with Castle is to you, our success with the product is to us and SAWS is a tough arena to test in!
Ron
Capt Ron
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some of the things we do...
1) we use Fuller's water cooling plates on all our Barracudas
2) we use 5mm gold connectors and run connections as short as possible between motor-esc and esc-battery
3) we do not use the BEC function but opt for receiver packs in all our Barrauda applications no matter the cell count
4) if there is a problem, any problem, we cease operation and send the ret. boat to fetch the model
5) if we get one wet [which we often do] we use a compressor to blow out the moisture, spray with WD-40 and try again
6) we make sure our drive lines are friction free and we do not run our boats wet
7) in all new applications {new set-ups, prop changes, etc.] we short run and test for heat
as i said, we've had excellent results with Castle Creations esc's and with the exception of the early run fet problem, we have yet to have one fail...
if it's just luck... i'll take it!
Ron
1) we use Fuller's water cooling plates on all our Barracudas
2) we use 5mm gold connectors and run connections as short as possible between motor-esc and esc-battery
3) we do not use the BEC function but opt for receiver packs in all our Barrauda applications no matter the cell count
4) if there is a problem, any problem, we cease operation and send the ret. boat to fetch the model
5) if we get one wet [which we often do] we use a compressor to blow out the moisture, spray with WD-40 and try again
6) we make sure our drive lines are friction free and we do not run our boats wet
7) in all new applications {new set-ups, prop changes, etc.] we short run and test for heat
as i said, we've had excellent results with Castle Creations esc's and with the exception of the early run fet problem, we have yet to have one fail...
if it's just luck... i'll take it!
Ron
raptor347
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I've got to go with Ron on this. There are three things you need to do to the barracudas to keep them alive: First, WATERCOOLING!!! It just gives you more safety margin. I built all the copper plates for Ray but just couldn't keep up, that's why he has the new machined aluminum plates available. Second, CorrosionX or dielectric grease in the little conectors that go between the boards. The little pins in the connector will corrode if they get wet, lose the right (wrong) contact and you burn a phase. Three, make sure the capacitors are still in contact, the legs break if they get bent around enough. Tape them together and to the main boards so they don't move. Also, replace the capacitors if they start to bulge, it's a dead giva away that they are going bad.
That being said, have I burned up a few, yes (and most of them were my fault for pushing the limits really hard). Two weeks later and $60 bucks I get a new one in the mail. You can't beat Castles customer service.
The schultze 40-160 that got wet (sorry, it's a boat controller, this shouldn't be a problem) was junk, $650 new- $550 for a replacement. :blink:
They have worked pretty well for me, I currently have 6 NAMBA FE SAW records, all running Castle ESCs.
Just my experience,
Brian Buaas
That being said, have I burned up a few, yes (and most of them were my fault for pushing the limits really hard). Two weeks later and $60 bucks I get a new one in the mail. You can't beat Castles customer service.
The schultze 40-160 that got wet (sorry, it's a boat controller, this shouldn't be a problem) was junk, $650 new- $550 for a replacement. :blink:
They have worked pretty well for me, I currently have 6 NAMBA FE SAW records, all running Castle ESCs.
Just my experience,
Brian Buaas
Kevin Whitehead
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I've had my Schulze 40-160 completely submerged several times. Blow the water out from behind the heat shrink and set it aside to throughly dry out. No problems, still runs like a champ. About the most bulletproof controller I have had.
That said, the 40-160 is not really comparable with the Castle 125. Given the option though, I would take a comparable Schulze (like an 18.129FW). Over the years, the Schulze controllers have proven to be very dependable and when there were problems (that I caused), thier service has been very good.
KW
That said, the 40-160 is not really comparable with the Castle 125. Given the option though, I would take a comparable Schulze (like an 18.129FW). Over the years, the Schulze controllers have proven to be very dependable and when there were problems (that I caused), thier service has been very good.
KW
Kris Flynn
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Guys, You make good points, here are my setups:
Twister Rigger (Dick Crowes old boat)
Hacker 8XL
12 GP 3700's (zapped)
X640 (dick told me to use the 642, but i went with the smaller option)
this setup killed the barra 80 which had an offshore electrics cooling plate on it
Own Design OB Tunnel (26.5" long and RTR weighs less than 4.5lbs)
Severly modded and thinned K&B lower unit
Aveox 1412 1.5y
12 GP 3700's (zapped)
X442 (Barr cut, diam reduced to about 41mm) (was told upto 45mm props could be used)
This setup killed the barra 125, nothing else was warm (batts as warm as they came off the charger)
The Tunnel wasnt running wet, but also wasn't running loose, as for the rigger who knows, i never got to see it going propery.
Hey I really like Castle and all, but this just sucks.
Kris
Twister Rigger (Dick Crowes old boat)
Hacker 8XL
12 GP 3700's (zapped)
X640 (dick told me to use the 642, but i went with the smaller option)
this setup killed the barra 80 which had an offshore electrics cooling plate on it
Own Design OB Tunnel (26.5" long and RTR weighs less than 4.5lbs)
Severly modded and thinned K&B lower unit
Aveox 1412 1.5y
12 GP 3700's (zapped)
X442 (Barr cut, diam reduced to about 41mm) (was told upto 45mm props could be used)
This setup killed the barra 125, nothing else was warm (batts as warm as they came off the charger)
The Tunnel wasnt running wet, but also wasn't running loose, as for the rigger who knows, i never got to see it going propery.
Hey I really like Castle and all, but this just sucks.
Kris
jayt
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According to a source, Castle had a small number of 125s get out with an unspecified defect; the situation has now been corrected but this explains why some owners have no problems and some have major problems. My own 125 has been trouble-free in oval and SAW setups. It is unfortunate that some 125s were affected but once these are gone it should be good to go.
One of the big advantages to the 125 is its ability to run the Neu motors. The Schulze controllers with software below v14 won't work and have to be sent back to Germany for reprogramming. Some BK controllers won't work with the Neus either.
The cooling requirement is due to Castle clinging to the old-school layout - stacked boards. This traps heat between the boards and really limits how well you can cool the ESC. Jeti/Hacker finally realized the problem and their new Navy77s are built flat so that all the FETs can be directly cooled. Once Castle does this they will have a truely world-class controller which can be repaired quickly in the US versus perhaps months for overseas repairs.
One of the big advantages to the 125 is its ability to run the Neu motors. The Schulze controllers with software below v14 won't work and have to be sent back to Germany for reprogramming. Some BK controllers won't work with the Neus either.
The cooling requirement is due to Castle clinging to the old-school layout - stacked boards. This traps heat between the boards and really limits how well you can cool the ESC. Jeti/Hacker finally realized the problem and their new Navy77s are built flat so that all the FETs can be directly cooled. Once Castle does this they will have a truely world-class controller which can be repaired quickly in the US versus perhaps months for overseas repairs.
Kevin Whitehead
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jayt
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I have absolutely no knowledge of Castle's plans, I was just thinking out loud.
I have found that the BK 9918 and 9920 will not reliably run some Neu motors, particularly the larger format "D" winds. Same thing with the Schulze - my 18/149 ran a "Y" wind but not a "D". I had to send it back for the newest software version. BK just said "too bad.....".
I have found that the BK 9918 and 9920 will not reliably run some Neu motors, particularly the larger format "D" winds. Same thing with the Schulze - my 18/149 ran a "Y" wind but not a "D". I had to send it back for the newest software version. BK just said "too bad.....".
Darin Jordan
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I don't know if this will help, and I'm sure many of you already know this, but I think the timing on the Castles needs to be set to the LOWEST setting in-order to make them live with the Neu motors... Especially when using a "D" wind motor... Otherwise, expect to see a "poof"... If I recall correctly, even the supplied standard setting is too much...
Capt Ron
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the info packet in the box your Neu motor comes in recomends using your speed controls lowest timing setting...
as for [even the supplied standard timing setting is too much] on the Barracuda 125 for your Neu motor application...
i suppose that depends on what you are tryin to achieve and how much risk you are willing to take B)
Ron
jayt
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Ron is right. At Valdosta last fall several Barracuda 80s went up in smoke on the factory setting with Hacker and Nemesis motors, so Ray programmed several remaining 80s down to the lowest setting. While the instructions with the Neu recommend low timing for "best efficiency", Steve Neu told me that for higher amp draw applications higher settings can be used up to ca. 20 degrees...which of course makes perfect sense. It is the same as with any BL motor - some folks can run higher timing than others depending on hull type, setup, run time, etc. and not burn down.
NAMBA860
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i need some setup help with my castle 125 controller.i have tried to follow the instructions but the controller is not responding the way the instructions say i also need to know about the timing and no reverse etc. set up is a 33 inch microburst with a hacker 8xl 18 cell,and an x637 prop surfacedriven.
Peter Zala
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Dear Capt Ron, i know this is just out of topic, but i had a barra 80 ran for 3min blew, had a second barra 80 ran for 2 weeks every second day i was on the water i packed the boat gently in the car drove to BOTB took the boat out checked prepaired put in the water 1 lap 300m the controller blew, 1 more controller left did another 300m and blew again, thats not bad luck in boat racing.
however i noticed you placed a particular word in your earlier sentence "competition controller" this must mean something?
my setup was the same as you decsribed only i used 3.3mm bullet plugs otherwise it was all perfect, as i said i played for 2 weeks every second day without fault except it was either at 6:30 in the morning or 7pm at night when it was cooler.
However! i have come to a fundanmental conclusion all 3 controllers that blew the days were over 40 deg cel here extreme hot, and it seems this may have contributed to my run of bad luck, we do have very different conditions here in OZ to the rest of the world and FE being so new we will have these early problems i do expect that, i also expect a company to adapt there technology for our conditions in the future.
as for now both kris and i have gone thru around 6 controllers in a very short period of time so you can see our concerns.
cheers
Pete.Z
however i noticed you placed a particular word in your earlier sentence "competition controller" this must mean something?
my setup was the same as you decsribed only i used 3.3mm bullet plugs otherwise it was all perfect, as i said i played for 2 weeks every second day without fault except it was either at 6:30 in the morning or 7pm at night when it was cooler.
However! i have come to a fundanmental conclusion all 3 controllers that blew the days were over 40 deg cel here extreme hot, and it seems this may have contributed to my run of bad luck, we do have very different conditions here in OZ to the rest of the world and FE being so new we will have these early problems i do expect that, i also expect a company to adapt there technology for our conditions in the future.
as for now both kris and i have gone thru around 6 controllers in a very short period of time so you can see our concerns.
cheers
Pete.Z
Capt Ron
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"Competition" refers to the Castle Creations "Barracuda 125" Brushless Competition Boat Control...
have you talked with Andrew at Fastelectrics.com about your on-going problem?
it's difficult from afar to be of any help other than recommending that you use watercooling on both your Barracuda 80 and 125 controls...
i've gone to the Barracuda 125 Competition control in all my applications under 20 cells with the exception of my P-Sport Hydro and have yet to blow a Castle 80 or 125 esc since i started using them 2 years ago...
six controls between two guys is certainly cause for concern...
in the early days [first production runs] of the Barracuda 80 there was a fet problem and a high failure rate resulted...
but that was nearly two years ago and has long since been corrected...
could it be that you folks ended up with [early run controls] are were not aware of it?
i gets hot here in Florida as well, we take extreme care during the summer months with all our set-ups, checking for excess heat often and in some cases proping down our hotter race set-ups...
i'm at a loss guys...
i do know that Castle stands behind thier product 100% and will make it good...
Ron
have you talked with Andrew at Fastelectrics.com about your on-going problem?
it's difficult from afar to be of any help other than recommending that you use watercooling on both your Barracuda 80 and 125 controls...
i've gone to the Barracuda 125 Competition control in all my applications under 20 cells with the exception of my P-Sport Hydro and have yet to blow a Castle 80 or 125 esc since i started using them 2 years ago...
six controls between two guys is certainly cause for concern...
in the early days [first production runs] of the Barracuda 80 there was a fet problem and a high failure rate resulted...
but that was nearly two years ago and has long since been corrected...
could it be that you folks ended up with [early run controls] are were not aware of it?
i gets hot here in Florida as well, we take extreme care during the summer months with all our set-ups, checking for excess heat often and in some cases proping down our hotter race set-ups...
i'm at a loss guys...
i do know that Castle stands behind thier product 100% and will make it good...
Ron
photohoward1
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One went poof today in AZ. Ask a guy who travels 1500 miles to race and in the 3rd race of the controller it goes poof. I wonder if the service is so good the guy will have a new one by Sunday?
If i had as many failures I would be in a soup line.
If i had as many failures I would be in a soup line.
Capt Ron
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Howard,
since when is it uncommon to see a control or two blow at a race...
i've seen the best racer's in the land poof Hackers at a big event and didn't hear any crying behind it...
racing on the edge, the risk kinda goes with the territory and no control is exempt...
i don't work for Castle, i don't care who buys them or doesn't buy them...
we've had great success with them including set'n five recent I.M.P.B.A. SAWS world records with no failures, zero, zip, nada...
to each his own...
Ron
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