-94 Smokin Joe's. Running clockwise with anti-clocwise hull.

[ThomasRasmussen]

Hi

I started building this hull several years ago, but had a long halt in the building due to moving and lack of space.

I took the hull out and was thinking about finishing it, only to notice that i've built it with a anti-clockwise offset. It's built from Newton D-158 plans enlarged by 20% to accomodate a gas engine. I am starting to worry about the performance when running this offset clockwise. What do you guys think? Pretty annoying to find this out now.

 

[SayMikey]

no problem should be just fine. Make sure you get the turnfin on the correct side

 

[jwo]

Will be fine. Also put the strut in the center of the tunnel. Not the center of the engine well. Nice to see a nother Gasser being built.

 

[ThomasRasmussen]

Thanks for the replies then i can rest at ease and continue my build. It will probably take a while due to my total lack of space, but i will do my best. Surely i want to see this bad boy on the water!

Regarding the turnfin i have already made reinforcement and glued in lug-nuts for a bracket, in the right-hand sponson for clockwise running.

On a sidenote, does anyone have experience with the RCMK 30cc rear exhaust engines? Would be easyer to place this engine center hull than a Zen side exhaust/carb.

 

[hugh hargett]

Why not run it as true scale? The northwest boys do that dont they? I got a raw righty 457 and huey.

 

[scott williamson]

Hi

I started building this hull several years ago, but had a long halt in the building due to moving and lack of space.

I took the hull out and was thinking about finishing it, only to notice that i've built it with a anti-clockwise offset. It's built from Newton D-158 plans enlarged by 20% to accomodate a gas engine. I am starting to worry about the performance when running this offset clockwise. What do you guys think? Pretty annoying to find this out now. View attachment 36128

I built my Aussie Endeavour 1/8 scale the same way to be a static model.I changed my mind and put an engine in it and it runs fine,it has a wide inside sponson and the driveline is about an inch offset to the outside.

 

[ThomasRasmussen]

Why not run it as true scale? The northwest boys do that dont they? I got a raw righty 457 and huey.

I do not plan on racing this boat. So i could do just about what i want but since i'm so used to clockwise and the motors pull the right way for this, i feel this will be less pain. PS: what's a "huey"?

I built my Aussie Endeavour 1/8 scale the same way to be a static model.I changed my mind and put an engine in it and it runs fine,it has a wide inside sponson and the driveline is about an inch offset to the outside.

It's excactly storys like yours i need. I have too little experience my self with these hulls, so i was not sure about the results. If you look at my picture you can see i actually have the wide sponson at the outside, so i guess Newton had this in mind for clockwise running.

Thanks all of you for great replies.

 

[Hydro Junkie]

When Roger drew the plans, as already mentioned, he drew the sponsons reversed so as to turn right but left the center offset to the left to preserve the look of the full sized boats. I've seen scale boats built with offsets both to the left and right and they have all run fine. It's not difficult to redraw the affected frame to offset the engine bay to the right since the only one that would require changing is the sponson transom, the rest you just put on the oposite side of the boat when you assemble the framing.

Just got to thinking, I need to clarify something. What I posted above applies to boats, like the 82 Atlas, that were built with a canard. There are some boats with offset engine bays, like the Griffon powered Budweisers, that have different nontrip angles or other asymetrical features that would also have to be redone to offset the engine bay to the other side of the hull

 

[ThomasRasmussen]

When Roger drew the plans, as already mentioned, he drew the sponsons reversed so as to turn right but left the center offset to the left to preserve the look of the full sized boats. I've seen scale boats built with offsets both to the left and right and they have all run fine. It's not difficult to redraw the affected frame to offset the engine bay to the right since the only one that would require changing is the sponson transom, the rest you just put on the oposite side of the boat when you assemble the framing.

Just got to thinking, I need to clarify something. What I posted above applies to boats, like the 82 Atlas, that were built with a canard. There are some boats with offset engine bays, like the Griffon powered Budweisers, that have different nontrip angles or other asymetrical features that would also have to be redone to offset the engine bay to the other side of the hull

Thanks for chiming in HJ

If i had done some more research when i started this build i would probably done it the way you said, and changed the parts over for a right offset. But like mentioned i have little experience with these hulls. But now after hours of reading on forums and the web i am learning.

Wondering already if i should order a ML boatworks kit. They really look like fine kits.

 

[SayMikey]

Why not run it as true scale? The northwest boys do that dont they? I got a raw righty 457 and huey.

The Northwest and RCU guys run in the same direction as IMPBA and NAMBA not backwards like FE in the NorthWest

 

[jwo]

Huey is the brand of cable. You are so far along in your build I would finish it 1st. Yes Mike's lazer kits are awesome. Top notch all the way. Here is my U-95 Gasser built from his lazer kit. I have changed a few things but over all it is the way you get it from him.

=

 

[jwo]

A rear ex. Engine does give you versatility, Like a nitro engine does. I prefer the Zen. They have shown much more in performance and reliability.

 

[ThomasRasmussen]

Jwo; Thanks for for your video upload. Looks like a great runner. That picture you posted, is that from a gas scale boat? looks a little tight in space around the header there.

Anyways, i think i have to order a rudder soon. Any suggestions regarding where to buy, dimensions and where to locate it on transom? Right side? left side? how much offset from center?

Thanks for any replies

 

[hugh hargett]

Huey is the brand of cable. You are so far along in your build I would finish it 1st. Yes Mike's lazer kits are awesome. Top notch all the way. Here is my U-95 Gasser built from his lazer kit. I have changed a few things but over all it is the way you get it from him. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eSU0yDvBKwg&context=C41a885cADvjVQa1PpcFNd_-SF24Dszf8Se0k2GLMrsrlC3TR1txM=

Great drivability with that motor. It will let you crawl then jump out like a rocket . Thats nice! smooth running gas motor sounds good.
Sorry should have said hughey.

 

[jwo]

Thanks, Yes it is a GAS SCALE. the rudder is a speedmaster/taper with dual pick ups. Mount on the left. 4" from prop center.

 

[jwo]

Huey is the brand of cable. You are so far along in your build I would finish it 1st. Yes Mike's lazer kits are awesome. Top notch all the way. Here is my U-95 Gasser built from his lazer kit. I have changed a few things but over all it is the way you get it from him. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eSU0yDvBKwg&context=C41a885cADvjVQa1PpcFNd_-SF24Dszf8Se0k2GLMrsrlC3TR1txM=

Great drivability with that motor. It will let you crawl then jump out like a rocket . Thats nice! smooth running gas motor sounds good.

Thanks again, Yes it runs real good. Still testing props. I will have it and the TEMPO VII out this weekend in Tri-Cities.

 

[ThomasRasmussen]

Hey jwo; how do you feel these boats are to set up? I know hydros are the most complex boats to set up, but how bad is it? I have been running some riggers before, but they are not quite the same i guess. If you have any more videos or pictures i would love to see them. Thanks a bunch for the ones already posted.

Regarding the rudders, is there any argument for mounting them on the left side as aposed to right hand?

 

[jwo]

They are fairly easy to set-up. You need to get the ballance right 1st. I balance mine 50/50 both directions. Front to rear and side to side. Strut depth depends on sponson depth. This is measured from the bottom of the sponson to a line you put on the air trap. This is done by using a straight edge from the transom to the back of the sponson. put a degree or 2 angle on it. Skid fin about 17 18 degress angle should be good. If you built this like the plans, The break in the bottom is towards the rear. You may need to put an airdam on under the leading edge. You wont know til you run it. If it gets light and walks on the sponsons at speed put 1 on it should take care of it. Only a 1/2" deep just behind the leading edge. Some will argue, that it doesnt realy matter which side the rudder is on. But it does make a difference. Putting it on the opposite side of the skid fin helps the boat track both in the straights and turns. Mainly the straight. Keeping the rudder as far away from the prop as you can also helps. Keeping everything in clean water. Prop,Rudder and skid fin. My youtube channel is hydroguy637.

 

[ThomasRasmussen]

If you built this like the plans, The break in the bottom is towards the rear. You may need to put an airdam on under the leading edge. You wont know til you run it. If it gets light and walks on the sponsons at speed put 1 on it should take care of it. Only a 1/2" deep just behind the leading edge.

Thank you.

Nice to hear theyre not a total pain to get up and running, but some of the fun is setting up a new boat though. I left in the quote a thing about the setup that i did not quite understand. Too many unknown words in there, since English is not my primary language.

If you would care to elaborate it's much appreciated

Im absolutely going to check your youtubechannel!