40 rigger Electric conversion

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fletch51

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2007
Messages
179
I am building a 37 inch Electric Outrigger.

It's based on a 40 fuel rigger.

I have been all over the internet trying to find Motor/ESC/battery setup today.

It looks like to get 10,000mAh at 18.5v, the Lipo's are gonna weigh 3 pounds!!!!

A pair of 5S packs 5000mAh each, wired in parellel.(1450kv motor)

P.S. I wrote it that way because I can't find on the internet any concrete consistency on how people use the S/P/mAh ratings
 
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I also have a pair of packs that are 7.4 volts 8000 mAh each. even wired in series kV must be higher.

I have dimensions on them and they will fit, they are a little thinner. but they arent here and I can't find a weight on them.

So far It looks like the Outrigger is gonna end up at 8 lbs. I have a 45 nitro rigger that weighs 6 lbs minus fuel.

Does it sound like im in the ballpark of a working setup?
 
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Your in the ballpark, I am running Nue 1527/1y (1250rpm per volt)on 6s2p, 10,000mah with Swordfish 240amp ESC
 
You should set the boat up as a 6s setup. Then you would have a Q-hydro. 5s doesn't have a class. If you are wanting to race the boat, I think a single 6s battery pack will be sufficient for heat racing.
 
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IMPBA FE classes go by voltage. Not by cell count.

The Q class is 15.6 to 22.2 Volts (+/- 17%)

3.7 v/cell x 5S = 18.5 volts

5S is in the Q class :)


 
Same w/NAMBA. 5S is legal for Q Classes.

If you haven't bought the cells yet, look at a 6S (or (2) 3S packs)of the Hyperion G3 35C 6500 mAh cells. That's plenty of mAh for heat racing a rigger, with a little room to spare, plus weight and dimensional savings over going w/10,000 mAh capacity.
 
Thanks All.

Those are numbers I understand.

I was looking for 6S but two 5S fits hull perfect.

I did not know that 5000 to 6500 would be enough for a heat.

I will get a single 6S

Thanks Again

Fletch
 
5S is a lot of power especially for a Q boat, I don't have a rigger that big but I do have a Whiplash 40 on this set up. I run 2x5cell 45c Hyperion 4200mah cells in parallel (8400mah total) Neu 1527 1.5d, Castle Hydra 240 LV, swinging a detounged Octura 457 prop. I ran and took home the gold with this set up at 2010 Fe Nats and my fast lap time was only 1-2 seconds slower than the fastest lap time of a Q hydro. not bad for a boat that had only 2-3 runs on it and 2 props before racing at the Nats, it has a lot more pontential just got to find the right prop!
 
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I run 6600mah in my boats. Plenty for 8 laps. 1 warm up, 6 heat racing and 1 cool down. Remember the first and last laps are not at full throttle. 6500 batts are hard to find so I run 3300mah in Parallel. 6600 total.

P,Q,S, or T. Plenty for a heat race. My Open rigger is good for 80mph in Heat form. I pull under 5000mah. Same for P.
 
I am building a 37 inch Electric Outrigger.

It's based on a 40 fuel rigger.

I have been all over the internet trying to find Motor/ESC/battery setup today.

It looks like to get 10,000mAh at 18.5v, the Lipo's are gonna weigh 3 pounds!!!!

A pair of 5S packs 5000mAh each, wired in parellel.(1450kv motor)

P.S. I wrote it that way because I can't find on the internet any concrete consistency on how people use the S/P/mAh ratings
Any luck with setting up your boat?
 
I just ran it today.

It wasn't nearly as fast as a 45 nitro and I think the pack can't handle the current.

The speed control after about a lap was cutting speed in half. I immediately brought it to check motor and ESC temp.

They weren't even slightly warm, so I launched the boat again.

Same results, One quick lap and ESC rolled back the throttle.

The battery was warmer than ESC and motor after only two short runs.

the battery, motor and ESC are all cheapo stuff.

Hey, but the radio, receiver and servo are top notch airtronics stuff...LOL

Now that I'm home I put the program card on the ESC.

the timing on the ESC is 7.5 degrees.

I also just found out I still had ESC set for 5S, I was running a 6S pack 5000mah

I wonder if that cell setting is just for the Lipo cutoff which is set at 3.2 right now.

If I'm right, does that mean that ESC wouldn't protect until that 6S pack is actually lower than 3.2v/cell

I'll put pics up in a few minutes

Prop was X450 just for starters. it was that or a 1457, so i went with x450 Thats all i have right now.
 
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I know it's cheap stuff, I didnt feel like dropping $750 on a motor/battery/ESC(even though I left $1400 at the casino friday night)but here goes:

Leopard 4082 1450kV brushless motor

6S 5000mah 20C (30C if lightning strikes) eBay(chinese) LiPo

SeaKing eBay(chinese) 180amp ESC

Boat ended up weighing 7lb 4oz

I can save one ounce if I switch to carbon boom tubes.

I could have saved another ounce if I had anymore CMD rudder hardware,I had a new speedmaster HEAVY duty one laying around.

I've had this hull sitting around Brand new unsealed for two or more years and I wanted to get it in the water.

The dumb looking Gatorade caps are for checking temp of ESC and motor until I have a reliable setup, then that plain lid sitting next to the boat replaces it.

I think I'm gonna make another one with gatorade cap on lid to check battery temp too.

EB.JPG


EB1.JPG


EB3.JPG
 
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nice build!

what prop are you using?

I recall someone saying to set that esc to "no low voltage cut off and cell count to auto detect"

I also would getsome good 35-45c batteries, those 20c packs probably wont deliver the advertised rating, that may be why your dropping off to part throttle.
 
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Looks **** good . Got any video?Cheap? .Aint nothing cheap about what you got. That leopard is one hell of a brushless motor and that seaking/turnigy 180 esc can handle a 360 amp burst (PLENTY) for what you are doing . Alot of guys racing run those. im afraid that boats going to surprize the heck out of you.You underestimate the potential of your gear.Providing your batteries can supply the 180 amps that setup can continuosly provide 6 hp@ 180 amps of continuos draw double that for peaks but only if you had batteries that supplies those peaks with 360 amps. Batteries are the weak link and if you ask for more amperage than they can supply you will ruin them and the esc.I recomend you get you a data logger so you know how much amperage youre pulling with your prop.Forget modesty u got a nice azz rigger brother!Paint?

Quote

"I also would getsome good 35-45c batteries, those 20c packs probably wont deliver the advertised rating, that may be why your dropping off to part throttle. "

I DEFINATELY agree higher c rated batts. At 20 c and 5000 mah you only good for about 100 amps continuous.
 
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Thanks Hugh,

Battery not delivering enough power makes sense.

I will try to find some higher C packs, the key is getting one that will fit.

I got lucky that this pack fit between boom blocks like it was made for the boat.

Anyhow I'm off to search internet for a pack of the right size, cells, capacity and C rating.
 
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