1984 Atlas Van Lines

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Rcboatcompany has the 84 Atlas cowling if that will help ya out the vents aren't cut out so when you get a good pic you can do it.
 
I have seen and considered going with the RC Boat Company's cowling. But I figured I would attempt to build it myself since the overall shape of the cowling after the cockpit is relatively boxy and thus would be simple to construct (and cheaper). The nose doesn't appear to be very complicated either. Incidentally, the ONE thing the Aeromarine boat got right was the nose of the cowling. Those vents just have me confused. I suppose I could settle for TLAR (That Looks About Right) but that doesn't sit right with me...

If my hull building skills don't pan out, I am thinking about getting the 7-11/Tosti Asti hull and modifying it. The RC Boat Company hulls look to be well made.
 
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The ultralite aircraft plywood is definately different. It's manufactured to be used to skin wings on wooden aircraft, sort of like the 1/32 and 1/64 plywoods are used on R/C aircraft with foam cored wings. It's highly flexible and very strong, ideal for skinning boat sponsons, decks and cowl top as I did on this boat
 
I have seen and considered going with the RC Boat Company's cowling. But I figured I would attempt to build it myself since the overall shape of the cowling after the cockpit is relatively boxy and thus would be simple to construct (and cheaper). The nose doesn't appear to be very complicated either. Incidentally, the ONE thing the Aeromarine boat got right was the nose of the cowling. Those vents just have me confused. I suppose I could settle for TLAR (That Looks About Right) but that doesn't sit right with me...

If my hull building skills don't pan out, I am thinking about getting the 7-11/Tosti Asti hull and modifying it. The RC Boat Company hulls look to be well made.
I have a home made cowl for my old Miller boat.If you want to have a look I can bring it to the lake or meeting?
 
Hydro Junkie, Where are you getting this from? I was planning on purchasing from Balsa USA...they have 1/16x12x48 3 ply for $11.81. They have wing skins, but they are 1/64. Also, what are you using for the stringers...is Basswood OK?

Mikey, I would like to see that cowling...meeting is on the 13th I assume :D Should be at the lake Saturday to reattempt the maiden of Jeff's Circus...this time with a GREENIE!
 
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Hey Tim,

Try www.nationalbalsa.com also. They have about anything you'll need. I have been getting birch ply from them since www.lonestar-balsa.com fire a few years back. They haven't stocked 12" X 48" birch ply in any thicknesses since. CHEERS !!! Bob
 
I get my "flexible" ply from a place in Tacoma called B&D International. You could ask around at the local airports that have ultralite and home built aircraft as to where they get their plywoods and go from there.
 
Finally going to get back to this project. I ordered some 3/32 and 1/16 ply as well as some Bass wood and Spruce for the stringers. Wasn't sure which to use so I just ordered both...problem is I don't know which is which. I assume the Spruce has the obvious grain.

Anyway, I have been looking at Mike L's threads to get an idea of how to put this together. The problem for me is they are all for electric set-ups. Does anyone know of a thread for one of his kits for a Nitro set-up?
 
You can get the Koskisen from www.balsawoodinc.com. Its aircraft grade, and its what is used in your frame kit. Best prices to. Like $9.50 a sheet for 1/16 x 12 x 48. Good stuff. Mike
 
Thanks Mike, I already have the ply that I ordered from National Balsa...pretty good service. For future reference though, I didn't find anything called "Koskisen" on their web-site. Is that simply what all of their aircraft ply is called?

It looks like there aren't any Nitro specific builds for your kits, and certainly nothing for the 1984 Atlas. There are some Dumas Miller American and Circus Circus threads out there...but nothing very enlightening so far. I suppose the best thing for me to do is to get the frame glued up (simple enough) and go from there.

I do have a couple of questions though. First, can the engine well sides be opened up between to formers to save weight or is this not worth the effort.

Secondly, I am not certain how to reinforce the frame to accept the motor mounts. My first thought is to double the engine well sides (between #4 and #5 formers) with 1/4 inch aircraft ply...Is this enough?

Just some more thoughts...I am leaning toward a front radio box arrangement with saddle tanks. Tanks will be accessed through the bottom deck and covered with a ply hatch and radio box tape. I have seen this on some fiberglass hulls so I don't see why it couldn't work in this situation. I suppose if anyone has built a mid to late 80's up to the more modern hulls, the layout would be similar...some pictures would be nice =)
 
Thanks Mike, I already have the ply that I ordered from National Balsa...pretty good service. For future reference though, I didn't find anything called "Koskisen" on their web-site. Is that simply what all of their aircraft ply is called?

It looks like there aren't any Nitro specific builds for your kits, and certainly nothing for the 1984 Atlas. There are some Dumas Miller American and Circus Circus threads out there...but nothing very enlightening so far. I suppose the best thing for me to do is to get the frame glued up (simple enough) and go from there.

I do have a couple of questions though. First, can the engine well sides be opened up between to formers to save weight or is this not worth the effort.

Secondly, I am not certain how to reinforce the frame to accept the motor mounts. My first thought is to double the engine well sides (between #4 and #5 formers) with 1/4 inch aircraft ply...Is this enough?

Just some more thoughts...I am leaning toward a front radio box arrangement with saddle tanks. Tanks will be accessed through the bottom deck and covered with a ply hatch and radio box tape. I have seen this on some fiberglass hulls so I don't see why it couldn't work in this situation. I suppose if anyone has built a mid to late 80's up to the more modern hulls, the layout would be similar...some pictures would be nice =)
Thanks Mike may have to do that....
 
Hey Tim,

I have been using birch ply from National Balsa for some time. Their Birch ply is Koskisen (sp). It was printed out on a piece of 1/32 I used for a new Scale boat. They buy the ply in huge rolls, so the name isn't on the 12 x 48 sheets we normally get.

Basswood is much lighter in color than Spruce The spruce has better linear strength than Basswood. I use basswood, where I don't need strength. The spruce should show much more grain. Better for stringers in my opinion.

For this particular hull, I would think the radio box forward would be the best choice. Have you considered tank boxes built into the hull to house tanks to give you 22 to 24 ounces of onboard fuel for a Green head CMB??? You could push the fuel tanks in through the tub rails into compartments, thus eliminating a removable panel in the hull bottom.

I have been running radio boxes to the starboard side of the engine in the MHR 8255 hulls I build. Grim Racer did similar, but he built his radio box into the Port side of the engine, outboard the engine tub rails, and mounted his rudder on the left/Port side of the transom - - I prefer rudder on the right, connecting the rudder servo to the rudder assembly using a Sullivan Gold n Rod in an easy "S" curvature. Lots of different ways to skin a cat.

The only Nitro build of Mike L's hulls I have seen posted on IW were those from Don Ferette's Bud build. Don built in foam flotation in sponsons for flotation as I recall, keeping the sponsons and hull tub outside the engine rails dry and fuel proof.

Good luck with you build. I'm looking forward to hearing about some of Mike L's boats hit the water in Nitro form. CHEERS !!! Bob
 
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