1/4" Gas Outboard Cables "Coming Soon"

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RonShaw

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I have read a lot of discussion threads on gas outboard cables for months now, and finally went on a search a few weeks ago for a supplier. I have found someone that will make the gas outboard cables for us. The cost will be $15 per cable. I wanted to get clarification on overall length and squared end length to assure these cables can be used or trimmed to work with all of the available gas lowers we have available to us today. I also wanted to gather any additional feedback you can offer before I get the first shipment. I have the measurement for the LawLess, so I need the squared end and overall length measurements for the G-Morty, Youngz, and others, to make sure a single length cable is possible.

Once the specs are finalized, and if there is enough interest, I will open a thread in the "For Sale" area on this website to accept pre-orders. This supplier will work with me to assure we have a quality outboard cable for our gas outboards long-term. FYI, I can get these cables manufactured, delivered to me, and be ready to ship in two to three weeks. Thanks.
 
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To start the discussions:

LawLess Gas Lower flex cable:

overall length: 6.3125" or 160mm

squared end length: .700" or 18mm (each end)
 
It has been a while since I last bought any, but the key point is???, I'm not sure we know what the key consideration is. Some people are saying the current cables on the market are too stiff, some say the cables are fine that the lower unit design (Lawless, G-Morty, etc. etc,) is faulty(to tight a radius). Some say the magic material needed is the cable with the purple stand(s). Like you and I talked, it could be all in how the units are set up. My lower units from SA have less of a radius and I can get 20 or more heat racing runs on any mfg cable. Gator 340 believes in purple cables in his G-Morty. Buddy Lowe thinks they all are POSs cause no cable can handle the power of the Missisippi motor man! Dicksta Loeb thinks the weight of the boat is the problem, cause you know we can't resist a big prop! Ground truth is we don't get to race these gas monsters enough to know what the true problem is. Mitch, what you say man? I'm gunning for you again this Spring! Beasley
 
I have a G-morty and they all break in the middle never on the ends. I would take 7 6.750 long and with 3/16 ends an inch on each side would be good.
 
And, I have had cables break at the mid point and at the bottom end, but never at the top? Beasley
James,

Thanks for the feedback. The LawLess issues I am convinced rest solely with the prop shaft assembly and the length of the cables. The reason your cables are breaking on the prop shaft end and the middle are due to excessive binding of the cable from the forces of the prop and shaft pushing against the cable. Go look at any of your K&B or LawLess 3.5 or 7.5 lowers. You will see the thrust washer actually comes into play on both of these lowers. Now look at your LawLess Gas Lower....... ;)

Right now I am simply working on a reasonable source for cables that are readily accessable and reasonably priced that can easily be trimmed to work with any of the gas lower units. I can help you fix your lower. Just send the entire unit including the engine so I can check the cable clearances on each end and re-bush your prop shaft assembly. You may also have a prop shaft that was not hardened properly that will need to be replaced. When you see wear on the steel shaft that is supported by bronze bushings, you know you have a weak prop shaft........ ;)
 
I have a G-morty and they all break in the middle never on the ends. I would take 7 6.750 long and with 3/16 ends an inch on each side would be good.
Eric,

Looking at your numbers above, it looks as though if I order the 6.750 cables with one inch of squared cable on each end, this will work for your G Morty and can be easily trimmed on each end to fit the LawLess as well. This will cover 90% of the gas lowers most are using today. Is there any additional input from anyone before I post in the for sale section and begin building the first order?

Eric, I will put you down for 6.
 
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It has been a while since I last bought any, but the key point is???, I'm not sure we know what the key consideration is. Some people are saying the current cables on the market are too stiff, some say the cables are fine that the lower unit design (Lawless, G-Morty, etc. etc,) is faulty(to tight a radius). Some say the magic material needed is the cable with the purple stand(s). Like you and I talked, it could be all in how the units are set up. My lower units from SA have less of a radius and I can get 20 or more heat racing runs on any mfg cable. Gator 340 believes in purple cables in his G-Morty. Buddy Lowe thinks they all are POSs cause no cable can handle the power of the Missisippi motor man! Dicksta Loeb thinks the weight of the boat is the problem, cause you know we can't resist a big prop! Ground truth is we don't get to race these gas monsters enough to know what the true problem is. Mitch, what you say man? I'm gunning for you again this Spring! Beasley
BTW, Mitch does have a strong gas outboard. I got a chance to run my 40 LeeCraft with him a couple of heats. Even though the water was rough and the wind at gale forces, we managed to race and have a blast at least a couple of heats together. I'm looking forward to learning more about these gas tunnels and getting more experience with the gas motors and setup. Looks like there will be at least two of us gunning for ya this year Mitch. Should be a blast for sure!!!!..... ;)
 
Yep same problem here with my lawless,flex cable brake at propshaft end.

Think it is the weight of the boat and "big"prop.

RonShaw if you have the cables would you sent 5 to the Netherlands?

Martin
 
Yep same problem here with my lawless,flex cable brake at propshaft end.

Think it is the weight of the boat and "big"prop.

RonShaw if you have the cables would you sent 5 to the Netherlands?

Martin
Martin,

It seems as though there is enough interest to get this going. I will keep this thread open for suggestions and I will open a new thread in the "for sale" to take pre-orders for the cables. Thanks.
 
I opinion is that the ends need to be spot welded to prevent unraveling. If you make them 6.75 long and Lawless owners have to trim them back the spot weld will be ground off and that will not be good. To do it right you have to make specific length cables for each mfg lower. Also, the overall flex cable length depends on the square drive adatper used on the zenoah. Each mfg of those makes them different lengths. All of the aluminum bell shaped ones are trash, either have runout or are unbalanced. The recent batch of flex coupler styled square drives does not have balance or runout problems but are significantly shorter, leaving the flex shaft unsupported at the motor end, and a marginal amount of cable grasped within the square drive. So, what we have is a hodge-podge bad situation. :)
 
The best permanant fix would be a unit like Buddy Lowe attempted to fabricate from his Lawless unit last year. Is traditional in style, but accomodates use of a standard gas hydro style flex cable and cable collet, no square ends. However, this system will require an exacting thrust washer system, much more precise than our other lower units use. It must accomodate cable shrinkage to avoid cable binding, but must not create too much drag or heat in the thrust wwasher area. Gas prop loads pushing on just the cable and not on a thrust washer system would surely snap the cable.
 
The perfect gas outboard setup is one that acts just like the rest of the other outboards we have all used for years, but with a 1/4" squared on each end, flex cable. One that free floats and the only bind is in the turn, and none whatsoever from the prop shaft or collet end. To achieve this, the flex needs to be trimmed the correct length, and the drive dog on the prop shaft assembly must actually make use of the thrust washer, and plenty of oil, (the good stuff). Teflon washers seem to hold up the best for the load the larger props and boats put on the washer. Most all of the setups I have seen to date did not meet these requirements, so flex shaft failures are the result either at the binding point at the prop shaft end, or in the middle at the bend. Set em up like your old K&B, problem solved.......... ;) If I can help in any way, just let me know.

I'm willing to help this class by providing easy access to flex cables for our gas lower units, something that seems to be missing for some time now. The rest is up to you........ :)
 
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Shaft maintenance is key guys.

We haven't done anything different with ours in our G-Morty lower other than just greasing the flex shaft after every run in a grease containing teflon and then even more important: PULL THE SHAFT OUT WHEN YOU'RE DONE RUNNING. Water builds up on the inside of those lower units and sits in the tube around the shaft causing them to RUST and become brittle. Water+metal= bad. Check it out for yourself.

That plus change out the teflon tube for a metal or brass liner and your shaft breaking problems will be almost eliminated. At least with the G-Morty that has been our experience.

We're just using the regular shafts that Greg sends and we haven't broken a cable in close to a year. What Ron said is very true though, make these lowers and accompanying pieces just like all of the other outboard stuff we have used for years. It's the exact same thing just bigger. No special mojo needed.

-Jr.
 
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Yep same problem here with my lawless,flex cable brake at propshaft end.

Think it is the weight of the boat and "big"prop.

RonShaw if you have the cables would you sent 5 to the Netherlands?

Martin
Martin,

It seems as though there is enough interest to get this going. I will keep this thread open for suggestions and I will open a new thread in the "for sale" to take pre-orders for the cables. Thanks.


That would be great RonShaw.

I don"t have a solution for the problem,maybe the weld tip from flexcable?

Keep my eye on the for sale section Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!
 
I have a Joe Caligrao unit and make my own shafts since a normal inboard shaft is what is used.. Couldn't be happier a caveman can do it!!!!

Later!!

Pat
 

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