Home Brew (lubrication)

[Jeffmaturo]

Anyone else use a mixture of ATF and Marvel Mystery Oil as a lubricant?

What is everyone using?

 

[Jeffmaturo]

 

[David Ashcroft]

ATF castrol all the way for pickle..

Metho,./ caster mix for after runners

 

[Eric Canto]

ATF mixed with mineral spirits for flush

 

[Samuel Hagan JR]

Anyone else use a mixture of ATF and Marvel Mystery Oil as a lubricant?

What is everyone using?

I use that as after run.

 

[Robert Pickard]

I use a ATF and marvel for flush

 

[Tony Jacuzzi]

My process - ATF flush buzzing with the starter and then ATF in through the carb and hand turn with the motor out for bearing feel. WD40 through the water jacket, wrap it in paper towel and into a plastic container clean pipe out with simple green etc.

 

[JimZaremski]

I flush out with WD-40, and use straight ATF to pickle it.

it's oil, guys, there's no magic.

 

[DON MAHER]

I flush out with WD-40, and use straight ATF to pickle it.it's oil, guys, there's no magic.

Been doing it that way for a longggggggg time!!!

Don

 

[BrianNeumann]

My question is how do you get all of the remaining fuel out of the engine before you put in the after run oil? I know that the WD-40 is supposed to flush out the fuel/water from the engine but, I have an engine with a silicone ramped crank and I've heard WD-40 will cause it to swell. Any advice would be appreciated!

 

[JimZaremski]

My question is how do you get all of the remaining fuel out of the engine before you put in the after run oil? I know that the WD-40 is supposed to flush out the fuel/water from the engine but, I have an engine with a silicone ramped crank and I've heard WD-40 will cause it to swell. Any advice would be appreciated!

I just pull the fuel line off of the carb nipple, put the glow igniter on, and spin it with the starter until it stops trying to run. Then I fire a good shot of WD40 down the transfer port or boost port, turn the engine over by hand a few times, then spin it with the starter to clear it out.

the WD40 doesn't just clear out water; burning nitromethane produces nitric acid which will attack metal engine parts (especially steel.) silicone is more or less oil resistant, and WD-40 is a middle-distillate oil akin to kerosene or diesel fuel. if WD40 will cause your silicone component to swell, so will your after-run oil.

 

[Michael Costanzo]

My question is how do you get all of the remaining fuel out of the engine before you put in the after run oil? I know that the WD-40 is supposed to flush out the fuel/water from the engine but, I have an engine with a silicone ramped crank and I've heard WD-40 will cause it to swell. Any advice would be appreciated!

I just pull the fuel line off of the carb nipple, put the glow igniter on, and spin it with the starter until it stops trying to run. Then I fire a good shot of WD40 down the transfer port or boost port, turn the engine over by hand a few times, then spin it with the starter to clear it out.

the WD40 doesn't just clear out water; burning nitromethane produces nitric acid which will attack metal engine parts (especially steel.) silicone is more or less oil resistant, and WD-40 is a middle-distillate oil akin to kerosene or diesel fuel. if WD40 will cause your silicone component to swell, so will your after-run oil.

have been flushing out my On-Road Car Engines(all have putty) and all of my other model engines for over 20+ years with LPS 2 and have NEVER had an problem!!

 

[JimZaremski]

have been flushing out my On-Road Car Engines(all have putty) and all of my other model engines for over 20+ years with LPS 2 and have NEVER had an problem!!

would you have had problems if you'd used something different?

 

[BrianNeumann]

What is LPS 2?

 

[Daniel's Racing]

What is LPS 2?

http://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/561

 

[dave roach]

All my engine I use WD 40 for flush and ATF and Marvel Mystery Oil.

For the engines with and Silicone ramp I use CorrosionX all the way.

Dave Roach

 

[BrianNeumann]

Thanks for the link Daniel. I have heard of corrosion x being used as well. But if you look at the spec sheet for corrosion x it does say it may swell silicone and certain rubbers. The Novarossi instructions say to use only synthetic after run oil because of possible damage to silicone ramp. That's why Novarossi sells standard and synthetic after run oil. The last thing is it says to avoid any solvents. Would the propellents in WD-40, or corrosion x be considered solvents? I'm sorry I got this thread so off topic.

 

[Michael Costanzo]

have been flushing out my On-Road Car Engines(all have putty) and all of my other model engines for over 20+ years with LPS 2 and have NEVER had an problem!!

would you have had problems if you'd used something different?

have also used corrosion x with no problems. have used wd-40 in a pinch and have seen no difference.i know i was told to use wd-40 thru the cooling heads in my boat engines because it does not cause swelling in the rubber o-rings in the head. to answer your question,i wonder if the problems with the ramp putty is the type/manufacture of the putty itself?? just like all epoxies are not created equal.just food for thought.

 

[Patrick Mulvany]

Jeff,

I didn't realize you were asking about clean up oils?? When I played with nitros it was strickly WD-40 then ATF in the engine.. But if you use an oiler for shafts Marvel oil and STP make a great combination!!

Later!!

Pat

 

[BrianNeumann]

Would it be better to get LPS 2 or corrosion x or etc... in a bottle instead of aerosol so I can inject it or is aerosol the way to go?