Young Blood monos...any info...

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Well I got parts i\for the boat on the way, did some polishing of the aluminum on the boat, found some fuel line to use till the new stuff arrives, I got my starting gear together and gave it a try, once I got the needle dialed in it started and idled for a couple seconds before I shut it down so it wouldnt get hot, runs good...I'll post again once I get it in the water...
 
well its getting two new fins and they are a little larger, so hopefully that will tame it and keep it turning good right and ok to the left...as I mentioned I like driving flatbottom stuff so I cant see it being more of a handful then something like that...anyway, ill keep everyone updated when I get some new news...
 
I just got a nitro boat in a trade and I can't wait to get on the water with something nitro powered again, its a young blood mono, I was told it was a young blood 45, It has a CMB .45 grandprix silverhead in it, and I think a MACS muffler pipe tuned pipe for it...It will arrive tuesday(a day late thanks to DHL screwing up) but I was just looking for info on them or any other comments about it and the engine...I dont have anywhere to race around here...but am gonna try to find a few people to run with...Im in central PA if someone knows a club in the area...I can't find any...but anyway let me know what you think of the boat and what it should be capable of...
I have a youngblood .45. mono for sale on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/Steve-Muck-Deep-Vee-wi...1QQcmdZViewItem
 
there is a difference in that hull and mine, mine lacks the flat spot between the trim tabs, mine stays veed the whole way, maybe there were differents generations of this hull...
 
I have a Young Blood 40 that I got about 20 years ago. I have had lots of fun with it. The hull is all black inside. Is this Carbon fiber or did they just use black fiberglass? I plan to get it running again this summer. Last run was 10 years ago and the throttle stuck at wot with a full tank of fuel. Needless to say it turned into a real handfull and ended up on the beach. Hull took it well.
 
every yougblood mono i ran turned good but if you had to correct to the left slightly the boat would barrel role. we over came this by changing our driving style. we actually raced the boat like the coarse was shapped like a football. that way there was no need to correct left to avoid hitting the entrance buoy if you were to close. as far as i recall there were three huls the first was a vee all the wat to the back the second was the same but there was slots molded in the bottom of the hull for the trim tabs to sit in and the third hull had a flat delta pad at the rear of the hull. i never ran the delta pad hull but they work well in real boats. these were the boats to run back in the day untill calvin motley came ou t with the cal craft.
 
I’ve run my Youngblood for a number of years now with a couple of third place trophies to show for it. Great boat for most water conditions. I actually had a CMB Grand Prix in it but there was something wrong with the motor. It heated up like crazy. Even before it fired up, the crankcase got hot, Hot, HOt, HOT. :angry: Someone suggested it was a misalignment of the bearings. :( Haven’t gotten around to check it out as of yet.

As far as the boat goes, great runner and very stable. Had a slight problem in the corners where it was bouncing too much and not very stable. One of guys told me to tilt the spin fin forward and that cured that. Bought a Seaducer 45 last year and put my Mac into it. After a few runs, I went back to the Youngblood. The boat is a little heavy as it has quite a few coats of paint on it now. I found that my old Picco P45 (slightly dressed up) worked best. I used a X447/3 and then my X646/3.

I made a custom hatch for it (from a drag boat hatch from Barnstormer boats), which I thought looked pretty good. Simple graphics and a ‘shake and rattle’ paint job, then away she went.

I think you should like the way the boat performs. :rolleyes:

Check out the pics of my boat.

Wally

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh95/walthor/IMG_3507.jpg

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh95/walthor/IMG_3335.jpg
 
If the motor is a gran Prix, it sounds like one of the crank side plates has slipped on the rod pin and the fron and rear shaft are now out of alignment.
 
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If the motor is a gran Prix, it sounds like one of the crank side plates has slipped on the rod pin and the fron and rear shaft are now out of alignment.
That is a very good point as I suspected that was one of the things that would need to look at. The fun part is checkking how straight the crank is. Is there a down and dirty way? Something like checking the position of the alignment slots on the front and rear of the crank.

Thanks

Wally
 
Do you guys/gals know where the the Youngblood mono originate from? The boat was a Designed by Steve Muck and was called Lil Streaker and used to be sold by tower hobbies.
 
Use a V block, and measure the runout of the rear end of the shaft with the front end in the V-block. It helps to make a non-marring tip (brass or HDPE/delrin) to use on the V-block clamp.
 
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Do you guys/gals know where the the Youngblood mono originate from? The boat was a Designed by Steve Muck and was called Lil Streaker and used to be sold by tower hobbies.
Muck's boat had a bottom very much like the Youngblood but Arthur at Tidewater made and sold them I believe. In their day they were the ones to beat if you could make them turn. VERY fast in the straightways. He is now out of business. Bought a buttload of CMB stuff from him in the past. GREAT person and his wife was likewise. Customer service was their trademark for me at least.

Curt
 
the monos and the hydros (glass ones) were all laid up by Jim Youngblood himself in Monroe, LA.

carl

and if memory serves, i believe he still has the molds for them.
 
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