Who runs square drive

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Gerald Carijuton

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who runs square drive , i would like to try this can anyone post some pictures and explain what you use and how to do it .

I have all Octura parts and 1/4 speedmaster extended strut.

I would like to know the best way to do this with the least drag

Thanks
 
You can build a square drive using a split collar on the flex shaft at the engine instead of using a ferrule. You would just need a square drive flex shaft made to the exact length needed. The ferrule's main purpose is keep the shaft from falling out when the boat is not moving forward. You will need a good thrust bearing at the strut, between the strut and drive dog. Octura has a bunch of types you could try out.
 
For the flex-hex-style engine-collets you can get square inserts.

Having a round-collet on engine , your best buy (IMHO) will be the one-piece square WHH RH-2074 propshaft.

L I N K

WHH-sq(E).jpg < click to enlarge

I use these ones for my 'rebuilds' , NEVER loose a prop/shaft ever !

Octura_square HXstyle-4.jpg < click to enlarge & scroll :D
 
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For the flex-hex-style engine-collets you can get square inserts.

Having a round-collet on engine , your best buy (IMHO) will be the one-piece square WHH RH-2074 propshaft.

L I N K

View attachment 24546 < click to enlarge

I use these ones for my 'rebuilds' , NEVER loose a prop/shaft ever !

View attachment 24547 < click to enlarge & scroll :D
Great looking setup. How much run time do you get on the bushings before rebuild?

David
 
The way several of us in the Northwest have ours set up is a square drive flex to a square engine collet on the front and soldered round ferrule to a stub shaft in the rear. This eliminates the need to have the extra cable required in a round clamp style collet system as the free floating flex cable will shrink from the front instead of the rear. It also eliminates the need to loosen the collet every time you pull the engine, greatly eliminating the wear and tear on both the collet AND the cable as well as making engine changes faster and easier
 
The way several of us in the Northwest have ours set up is a square drive flex to a square engine collet on the front and soldered round ferrule to a stub shaft in the rear. This eliminates the need to have the extra cable required in a round clamp style collet system as the free floating flex cable will shrink from the front instead of the rear. It also eliminates the need to loosen the collet every time you pull the engine, greatly eliminating the wear and tear on both the collet AND the cable as well as making engine changes faster and easier

How are you greasing the stub shaft in the strut without taking it apart or are you taking it apart and how often do you have to grease the stub shaft.
 
We inject oil into the strut through a hole drilled in the side at te race site. It lubricates as well as forces water out of the strut. Since the stub shaft is only held in by set screws, they are loosened and the stub shaft is removed for maintenance after we get home. At the same time, the flex cable is removed without having to be pulled through the strut and no messing arround the the collet is needed due to the slip fit. This prevents damage to teh inside of the strut while making cable greasing easy.
 
Is it possible to make a round drive cable to square drive cable at home and what kind of tools would you need to do this .
 
Gerald

You would need a set of stamping dies and a 50 ton press.

Dave Roach
 
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dwilfong said:
How much run time do you get on the bushings before rebuild?
Bushings renewed once a year or so ... this system has a constant-oiler.

Craig Knight said:
These stub shafts do away with the set screws and the problems associated with them and never come loose.
Never seen screwed together parts run true.

That's why I like the WHH one-piece.
 
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Never seen screwed together parts run true.
These do, The ferrule also has wall(can't think of a technical name for it) between the flex shaft side and threaded side so no fouling the thread when soldering the flex to ferrule. I use them on my twin 91 rigger and 91 sprintcat without any problems. I highly recommend them if you are going down the square drive route.
 
These stub shafts do away with the set screws and the problems associated with them and never come loose.

I had all sort of issues with set screws untill I started using harden allen head drivers. The old black ones tended to round it out. With the harden tip I have never had one come loose or strip out. I run square on my sport 40 and 60 boats. I have some of the 3/16 fellerels that are squared. I have not given them a try as of yet. They would make the system elimante the solder aspect. Also make for easy repair at the lake.

For soldering ferrels straight on the cable, I have a jig the keeps them in line.

Mike
 
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