Water line poped off.

[tmunn]

Thanks rodney, the only other place would be in front of the fitting that let go on me so nothing would be gained really and i am hoping that the hole in the coolant jacket will be a one size does all deal where i have one less thing to adjust.

Through this experience i have learned what i would do going forward and I may put in a new line with barbs on them this winter if i get bored..I know i won't be building Three new boats and a rebuild/ repaint ever again in one winter... no way not me....

I will let you guys know how it goes when I get some runs in.

 

[moparbarn]

i prefer to restrict water at the outlet. having a restriction on the inlet can lead to the POSSIBILITY of the water jacket not filling up, due to the larger outlet. you need some positive pressure to keep it full, imho. any voids/air in the cooling system can lead to hot spots or uneven cooling. not as much an issue on inboards, as the outlet is usually higher than the inlet. but the outlet on the side of the water jacket isn't all the way at the top of the water jacket, either. much worse on outboards, where the fittings are normally on the bottom. i realize the pressure issue, so i change lines regularly, use larger brass tubing for a tighter fit & zip tie. so far, so good. just keep an eagle eye on the water stream coming out, & bring it in if it changes .

 

[Charles Perdue]

I use a K&B needle in the water line to set the water flow. I set it with my BM meter. same number as the fuel. thy seam to work in unison. works on all size eng.

On my big rigger the standard fuel line just splits open had to use heavy duty gas fuel line on the beast. wire ties work just fine some times two will be needed to do the job.

Working on a thermostat control using a standard timer chip and a thermal resistor. Going to hook it up to a Perry fuel valve in the water line. Just need more time in the day.

David

If you are blowing the water line off or splitting it then your water pickup in the rudder is MUCH too large. Have ran as low as .030 pickup hole and it is still way too much water.

David, I also have a thermostat that is already designed and built for our engines that works as slick as eel poop. I just have to build a calibration fixture to test and adjust them easily before I can put them on the market.

Like you said, there is just not enough time in the day.

Charles

 

[dwilfong]

I use a K&B needle in the water line to set the water flow. I set it with my BM meter. same number as the fuel. thy seam to work in unison. works on all size eng.

On my big rigger the standard fuel line just splits open had to use heavy duty gas fuel line on the beast. wire ties work just fine some times two will be needed to do the job.

Working on a thermostat control using a standard timer chip and a thermal resistor. Going to hook it up to a Perry fuel valve in the water line. Just need more time in the day.

David

If you are blowing the water line off or splitting it then your water pickup in the rudder is MUCH too large. Have ran as low as .030 pickup hole and it is still way too much water.

David, I also have a thermostat that is already designed and built for our engines that works as slick as eel poop. I just have to build a calibration fixture to test and adjust them easily before I can put them on the market.

Like you said, there is just not enough time in the day.

Charles

yes if the day was only longer.

 

[tmunn]

Guys I did my initial test with the jb weld barb like john suggested and zip tie on behind it like others use and it is TIGHT to pull off with needle nose plies .I actually never pulled it off because i did not want to mess up the JB weld barb .I am certain it will hold .If the lines do not split I am laughing.I may make up a couple restricted water nipples to take with me for testing also.

 

[Jeff Schindler]

O

I use a K&B needle in the water line to set the water flow. I set it with my BM meter. same number as the fuel. thy seam to work in unison. works on all size eng.

On my big rigger the standard fuel line just splits open had to use heavy duty gas fuel line on the beast. wire ties work just fine some times two will be needed to do the job.

Working on a thermostat control using a standard timer chip and a thermal resistor. Going to hook it up to a Perry fuel valve in the water line. Just need more time in the day.

David

David,

Have you heard of "carbsmart" used in nitro helicopters? Temp probe > circuit > ppm servo signal. They use the fuel needle to maintain operating temp with feedback from the temp probe. I bought one, but haven't tested it yet.

 

[Charles Perdue]

O

I use a K&B needle in the water line to set the water flow. I set it with my BM meter. same number as the fuel. thy seam to work in unison. works on all size eng.

On my big rigger the standard fuel line just splits open had to use heavy duty gas fuel line on the beast. wire ties work just fine some times two will be needed to do the job.

Working on a thermostat control using a standard timer chip and a thermal resistor. Going to hook it up to a Perry fuel valve in the water line. Just need more time in the day.

David

David,

Have you heard of "carbsmart" used in nitro helicopters? Temp probe > circuit > ppm servo signal. They use the fuel needle to maintain operating temp with feedback from the temp probe. I bought one, but haven't tested it yet.

Jeff, I have one also, they look neat, and have not tried it either.

 

[moparbarn]

jeff or charles, is it adjustable, or fixed parameters?

 

[dwilfong]

O

I use a K&B needle in the water line to set the water flow. I set it with my BM meter. same number as the fuel. thy seam to work in unison. works on all size eng.

On my big rigger the standard fuel line just splits open had to use heavy duty gas fuel line on the beast. wire ties work just fine some times two will be needed to do the job.

Working on a thermostat control using a standard timer chip and a thermal resistor. Going to hook it up to a Perry fuel valve in the water line. Just need more time in the day.

David

David,

Have you heard of "carbsmart" used in nitro helicopters? Temp probe > circuit > ppm servo signal. They use the fuel needle to maintain operating temp with feedback from the temp probe. I bought one, but haven't tested it yet.

Jeff, I have one also, they look neat, and have not tried it either.

I have logged ex temp with the Eagle tree I have with the probe. but it is a pain to hook up the probe to the ex. Was messing with Tommy Dodd with a set up to do every thing, needle ,ex temp, head temp and water control all in one unit. But then he just disappeared.

Will check it out when I get a free moment. :blink:

Sound good. but water will still have to be part of the equation.along with the ex gas temp.

Maybe Marty will lend a hand

David

 

[dwilfong]

O

I use a K&B needle in the water line to set the water flow. I set it with my BM meter. same number as the fuel. thy seam to work in unison. works on all size eng.

On my big rigger the standard fuel line just splits open had to use heavy duty gas fuel line on the beast. wire ties work just fine some times two will be needed to do the job.

Working on a thermostat control using a standard timer chip and a thermal resistor. Going to hook it up to a Perry fuel valve in the water line. Just need more time in the day.

David

David,

Have you heard of "carbsmart" used in nitro helicopters? Temp probe > circuit > ppm servo signal. They use the fuel needle to maintain operating temp with feedback from the temp probe. I bought one, but haven't tested it yet.

Took a quick look at it . don't think 130deg will get it for a .21 for head temp. will need more to burn high nitro. also the needle should be controlled by the ex temp and the water controlled for the head temp and both should be mixed together for the best results. When I get more time I will work out a rudimentary circuit and try to combine the two timers circuits with a third one.

David

 

[anthony_marquart]

Well,.. since my water line is in a really bad spot to work on... I just took 100 grit paper,.. scuffed it as best as I could, cleaned the brass and the silicone real well.. put on a tiny tie wrap...

I can drag the boat across the table with it.. should be good...

In the process I flippin cut the push rod seal and the ones I have are too small to go over this line... !!!!!! CRAP I WANT TO RUN ON SAT...

Anyone know what the largest diameter push rod seals are?

 

[Jeff Schindler]

O

I use a K&B needle in the water line to set the water flow. I set it with my BM meter. same number as the fuel. thy seam to work in unison. works on all size eng.

On my big rigger the standard fuel line just splits open had to use heavy duty gas fuel line on the beast. wire ties work just fine some times two will be needed to do the job.

Working on a thermostat control using a standard timer chip and a thermal resistor. Going to hook it up to a Perry fuel valve in the water line. Just need more time in the day.

David

David,

Have you heard of "carbsmart" used in nitro helicopters? Temp probe > circuit > ppm servo signal. They use the fuel needle to maintain operating temp with feedback from the temp probe. I bought one, but haven't tested it yet.

Took a quick look at it . don't think 130deg will get it for a .21 for head temp. will need more to burn high nitro. also the needle should be controlled by the ex temp and the water controlled for the head temp and both should be mixed together for the best results. When I get more time I will work out a rudimentary circuit and try to combine the two timers circuits with a third one.

David

Gotcha! I will try the carbsmart on something soon. I'm pretty sure 130 deg is that Celsius thing everyone else uses. Which makes warmer than my engines usually run, so I might need to start with a fresh 21 motor

 

[Jeremy Linney]

O

I use a K&B needle in the water line to set the water flow. I set it with my BM meter. same number as the fuel. thy seam to work in unison. works on all size eng.

On my big rigger the standard fuel line just splits open had to use heavy duty gas fuel line on the beast. wire ties work just fine some times two will be needed to do the job.

Working on a thermostat control using a standard timer chip and a thermal resistor. Going to hook it up to a Perry fuel valve in the water line. Just need more time in the day.

David

David,

Have you heard of "carbsmart" used in nitro helicopters? Temp probe > circuit > ppm servo signal. They use the fuel needle to maintain operating temp with feedback from the temp probe. I bought one, but haven't tested it yet.

Took a quick look at it . don't think 130deg will get it for a .21 for head temp. will need more to burn high nitro. also the needle should be controlled by the ex temp and the water controlled for the head temp and both should be mixed together for the best results. When I get more time I will work out a rudimentary circuit and try to combine the two timers circuits with a third one.

David

Gotcha! I will try the carbsmart on something soon. I'm pretty sure 130 deg is that Celsius thing everyone else uses. Which makes warmer than my engines usually run, so I might need to start with a fresh 21 motor

I know where you can get a fresh. 21 Nova, lol.

 

[dwilfong]

O

I use a K&B needle in the water line to set the water flow. I set it with my BM meter. same number as the fuel. thy seam to work in unison. works on all size eng.

On my big rigger the standard fuel line just splits open had to use heavy duty gas fuel line on the beast. wire ties work just fine some times two will be needed to do the job.

Working on a thermostat control using a standard timer chip and a thermal resistor. Going to hook it up to a Perry fuel valve in the water line. Just need more time in the day.

David

David,

Have you heard of "carbsmart" used in nitro helicopters? Temp probe > circuit > ppm servo signal. They use the fuel needle to maintain operating temp with feedback from the temp probe. I bought one, but haven't tested it yet.

Took a quick look at it . don't think 130deg will get it for a .21 for head temp. will need more to burn high nitro. also the needle should be controlled by the ex temp and the water controlled for the head temp and both should be mixed together for the best results. When I get more time I will work out a rudimentary circuit and try to combine the two timers circuits with a third one.

David

Gotcha! I will try the carbsmart on something soon. I'm pretty sure 130 deg is that Celsius thing everyone else uses. Which makes warmer than my engines usually run, so I might need to start with a fresh 21 motor

My bad it dose say C not F

I would try hooking it up To the water line with a Perry fuel valve in the line.

Where can you get them at.

David