UL-1 Performance Tricks

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tampa1330

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2007
Messages
491
A friend of mine just picked up the AquaCraft UL-1. He's new to Hi-Performance R/C boating so I was hoping I could gather a few ideas to help him hit that 55-60 mph threshold and get him really hooked on R/C boats. He went from the made in china twin 380 deep vee to an Aqua Hammer and now the UL-1. I think he's in for a bit of an adrenalin rush once he launches that UL-1 for the first time. So throw out some tuning tips if you got 'em. You know like which props best suit the stock setup? Strut depth? Sand the bottom? Li-po Voltage & mah? Maybe even a few pics of the UL-1 in action.
 
Why 55 to 60.. just might be wrong boat for that...

Can he be happy with 45 to 50? if so the UL-1 is the RIGHT BOAT..

Im not saying the UL-1 will not go past 60MPH, it can and has.. but to get there might take the fun out of his game.

How about this..

If he is new to RC performance boating 45 is PLENTY fun. It handles great and its not hard to make it go 50. All good things.. let him get some runs and help him tune the hull just like your nitro hulls.

Prop

Prop

Prop

Grimracer
 
Why 55 to 60.. just might be wrong boat for that...
Can he be happy with 45 to 50? if so the UL-1 is the RIGHT BOAT..

Im not saying the UL-1 will not go past 60MPH, it can and has.. but to get there might take the fun out of his game.

How about this..

If he is new to RC performance boating 45 is PLENTY fun. It handles great and its not hard to make it go 50. All good things.. let him get some runs and help him tune the hull just like your nitro hulls.

Prop

Prop

Prop

Grimracer
I wasn't really aiming for the exact numbers I just want to help him get as much as he can out of it. I know he'll be thrilled with the boat bone stock, but i'd like to help him learn more about tweaking and tuning.
 
I've run the UL-1 in the 60-65mph range at the SAWs. It's not a practical speed range for the boat.

45-50 is reasonable for an oval setup. I like the M645 for all around running. You definitely want to blueprint the sponsons. You may end up dropping the strut a bit and adding an airdam. Each boat is different. Tuning is half the fun.
 
Tuning is half the fun.
That's the point I'm getting at. I was hoping to get a few suggestions to start with. I have a good selection of props that I picked out for him to try. I pulled most of them from my .18 & .21 boxes but the m645 is a little larger than what I picked out. I was hesistant to go too big cause I don't want to overheat the motor. I have x440/3 x442 x642 x645 1445. I'm not sure what the boat comes with stock I was guessing 440/3 and using that as a starting point. Will any those I mentioned improve performance from the stock plastic prop?
 
The stock prop is a plastic version of an x440/3. I've used an x445 and it runs very well. I haven't tried an x645 because we are trying to limit the props to plastic props. The speed secret to this boat is prop choice and prop tweaking. Sine prop mods are a black art that few have perfected, using plastic props helps to level the racing field. If your friend is not interested in organized racing metal props rule - but run too long and you can overheat the motor, ESC and cells. Racing is easier because the race time is limited. Sport running can place bigger demands due to longer run time......

We have found that running the strut deeper than stock - around 1" down - helps a lot as speeds increase. It should be almost level toom, depending on the prop. Like Brian said, block-sand the sponsons bottoms flat and true, and leave them rough from 400-grit paper. Don't polish them.

Some have had problems with the water jacket leaking. Get an aluminum jacket from Offshoreelectrics, bullet proof.

All the power in the boat comes from the cells - top end cells give more speed, although cheap cells are not too far behind. I'd use 4000-5000mAh packs just to maximize run time, but get a minimum of 3300 mAh.

I build my air dams from pool noodle foam or vinyl tape and fuel tubing. Cut a length of large tubing just long enough to fit across the tunnel and tape it down. That will work for most applications.

.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The stock prop is a plastic version of an x440/3. I've used an x445 and it runs very well. I haven't tried an x645 because we are trying to limit the props to plastic props. The speed secret to this boat is prop choice and prop tweaking. Sine prop mods are a black art that few have perfected, using plastic props helps to level the racing field. If your friend is not interested in organized racing metal props rule - but run too long and you can overheat the motor, ESC and cells. Racing is easier because the race time is limited. Sport running can place bigger demands due to longer run time......
We have found that running the strut deeper than stock - around 1" down - helps a lot as speeds increase. It should be almost level toom, depending on the prop. Like Brian said, block-sand the sponsons bottoms flat and true, and leave them rough from 400-grit paper. Don't polish them.

Some have had problems with the water jacket leaking. Get an aluminum jacket from Offshoreelectrics, bullet proof.

All the power in the boat comes from the cells - top end cells give more speed, although cheap cells are not too far behind. I'd use 4000-5000mAh packs just to maximize run time, but get a minimum of 3300 mAh.

I build my air dams from pool noodle foam or vinyl tape and fuel tubing. Cut a length of large tubing just long enough to fit across the tunnel and tape it down. That will work for most applications.

.
I've never used air dams on my nitro hulls. That helps reduce lift, right? I've seen windsheild washer blades glued to the bottom tunnels. Is that the idea you're getting at?
 
Kinda. What you want is to disrupt/turbulate the air in the tunnel to reduce lift. The shape of the dam is less important that its depth. It should be slightly soft so that if you run over a hard object it will not tear off the dam, but hard enough to not fold over at high speeds. The gas cat racers are starting to use them to keep their boats on the water in high wind.

.
 
I hope this dude stayes focused on his products.. so far it looks good..

Stay focused kintecracing.. your doing good!

Grimracer
 
FWIW, I just bought a prop balancer from Kintec and it is a very nice piece of work. Almost makes balancing fun. Almost!!
 
How do you mount these air dams? Just point them straight down at the water to keep as much air from flowing under the boat? How far down would you put one like on a 1/8 scale hydro?
 
How do you mount these air dams? Just point them straight down at the water to keep as much air from flowing under the boat? How far down would you put one like on a 1/8 scale hydro?
The front edge is about 2" from the front of the boat and yes it goes straight down...you may want to experiment with it by moving it closer to or farther back from the front of the boat to see what works best. the depth of the door guard i use is approx. 3\4" deep.
 
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