TS2 kibbles and bits

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Is the pickup still at the front of the tank(where a clunk would be) or at the rear just below the inlet/outlet fittings?
 
Is the pickup still at the front of the tank(where a clunk would be) or at the rear just below the inlet/outlet fittings?
If you build the tank with the clunk, it would be at the front. This is the easiest method for most and works ok.

It is better if you carefully bend the metal tube after you insert it through the lid stopper for the fuel pick-up to be just below the inlet/outlet.

Have fun!

Rw

fwiw; I raced all year with the clunk at the front to be sure it would be ok. With this small of a tank, it really is not a big deal. It is pressurized and fuel draw was never a problem, even when the tank gets low on fuel. I could run the TS2 to a completely empty tank, no problem.
 
Thanks, I put a brass tube bent to the rear left side. But with the clunk at the front it was still getting empty. I run a 2oz header tank in front of the main but raised up to the top of the canopy. Really I was just bored when I put the 2oz in. Gonna try a oneway valve on the pressure line tomorrow and see if the settings stay the same. Maybe a little less mess in the pits.(fuel spillage) Todd
 
fwiw; I raced all year with the clunk at the front to be sure it would be ok. With this small of a tank, it really is not a big deal. It is pressurized and fuel draw was never a problem, even when the tank gets low on fuel. I could run the TS2 to a completely empty tank, no problem.
I built mine with the clunk in front as well since I promised to set it up as directed in the book, which is the way I would expect a novice builder/boater to do it too. No problems whatsoever. Never got to the bottom third of the tank in a heat anyway. I would suggest keeping the clunk in the build specs as a novice may be challenged with the right way to set up the brass bend and be less satisfied with the end product.
 
It looks like its going to take 3 sticks of Prather lead on the nose to get my c/g close without fuel, is this about normal.

Mike
 
I would suggest you try 4 oz. to start with and add more if necessary after running the boat. I like to stick 3 oz. on the inside of the cowling chin and use the lead slot for further adjustments.

JD
 
so i am going to have a buddy of mine airbrush some cool stuff on my white ts2. how should i prep the existing paint?
 
Jerry you're right about running the boat to find out what it likes, did I see somewhere that the c/g should be about 9 1/2"? I'd like to be close on the first try, rather than trying to stick lead on a cold wet boat. With no weight in the slot under the nose,I put 3oz. in the nose and poured in some expanding foam, enough to fill the nose back to the radio box, that put the c/g at 9" so there should be enough room in the slot under the nose to finish the balance with a little more lead, right?

Mike B
 
PLEASE be careful of the foam you filled the nose in with. I have seen the pour in stuff EXPAND like crazy in the hot summer months.,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

carl
 
I have never seen that, I try not to use it too often, it's kind of heavy, but it seeemed to work out well to add a little more weight to the nose, hold in the lead pieces and give a little float at the same time. thanks for the tip, I'll watch for that when it warms up.

Mike B
 
Mike,

It appears to me you're following the correct steps for trimming the TS2. I've just stuck a piece of regular foam roughly cut to fit into the front of the cowl for floatation.

JD
 
I was just wondering if anyone is using the Dubro motor mount for the TS2 ,the one for a 3.5?

How does the nylon hold up?

Ed.R
 
re: DuBro Motor Mount for TS2

I run this mount on all my TS2 powered by K&Bs & MACS.

Lately, I've been running the K&B lower unit on a DuBro Mount bolted directly to the transom of a TS2.

JD
 
Jerry;

how does teh boat run with the motor being bolted on like that? still havent built mine yet. puttin gon a CMB/K&B lower power unit on mine.

thaks

carl
 
I have a CMB greenhead on one of mine. I am using a K&B lower unit and SPP pipe. The M440 Octura prop is pushing it just over 50mph. The engine is stock.
 
I know this has been discussed but I just started to mount my OS motor and drilled the holes as instructed and they are too large. Will the epoxy be strong enough to hold them in or should I try something else?
 
to answer your question: NOPE

find a small dowel the size of the holes you drilled or just a bit larger and glue them into the holes. after fully drying, re-drill the holes to the corect size for the threaded inserts.

carl
 

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