starters/power..what do you use?

[Ron Olson]

Tower Hobbies or your LHS should have the chargers. Usually they only charge at 1 amp. If you have a battery store near you, check them out. We have one called Battery Outlet, I'm guessing that it's a chain store that carry batteries for everything and custom build packs all the time.

 

[Rigged]

Tower Hobbies or your LHS should have the chargers. Usually they only charge at 1 amp. If you have a battery store near you, check them out. We have one called Battery Outlet, I'm guessing that it's a chain store that carry batteries for everything and custom build packs all the time.

ha..i live in the boondocks. No hobby shops close by. I wish i woulda knew about these the other night when i placed an order at TH for some stuff

Happen to know a name or brand of one of the chargers? I have a friend that owns an electronics store that can get me whatever batterys and chargers for em at cost.

That car fuel. 12% or lower oil might not be enough

ok. The previous owner said the headgaskets are setup for 40%, so ill guess ill see if the little hobby shop (mostly planes & cars) has some 40% in stock.

 

[ids987]

alright i supose ill be buying a couple of them batterys someone linked. Is there a specific charger im going to need for these?

also... any help on that fuel question? I dont want to hurt the motor if the "car" blend 10% isnt good for it.

I believe the 10% O'Donnell fuel is the "RTR" blend - which has more oil than the race blend.

As regards starters, I use a Sullivan Dynatron with 2 x 7AH Gell Cells in series. I connect the batteries in parallel to charge them - on a car type charger. No problems so far. I've been using the same setup for a year, and neither battery was new when I got it. I still find I have to loosen the plug a bit in my Picco .67s when they are cold (although not my CMB .90). The gell cells are too small to maintain full voltage with a Dynatron on full load, and I'm sure you'd get noticeably more torque with two car batteries, but gell cells work fine in the real world. I don't mind loosening a plug if it saves me transporting two car batteries. Kinder on the rods and starter belts too.

Ian

 

[Rigged]

alright i supose ill be buying a couple of them batterys someone linked. Is there a specific charger im going to need for these?

also... any help on that fuel question? I dont want to hurt the motor if the "car" blend 10% isnt good for it.

I believe the 10% O'Donnell fuel is the "RTR" blend - which has more oil than the race blend.

yeah thats what it says on the bottle. RTR car blend. Any idea how much oil the rtr blend has?

 

[Joe_Knesek]

You can try running the Hobbico on 24 but I don't suggest it. They don't last too long. I use the Sullivan Deluxe Hi-Tork Starter. It has lasted 10 yrs on 24v with no problems.

Mike

Yup, that Sullivan Hi Tork with the Speedmaster Handle on 24 volts will start a diesel truck!

If you plan to run the Speedmaster handle, you can buy just the motor from Sullivan for about half the cost. I purchased the Dynatron motor last year for less than $50.00 shipped.

It's actually on $34.00 for the Dynatron motor. Much better than buying the complete starter and retrofitting the handle to it.

 

[ids987]

alright i supose ill be buying a couple of them batterys someone linked. Is there a specific charger im going to need for these?

also... any help on that fuel question? I dont want to hurt the motor if the "car" blend 10% isnt good for it.

I believe the 10% O'Donnell fuel is the "RTR" blend - which has more oil than the race blend.

yeah thats what it says on the bottle. RTR car blend. Any idea how much oil the rtr blend has?

Not really sure. I was recommended it by a good source, but I couldn't find any hard data on oil distribution. I would guess that the race fuel is around 13% oil, and the RTR higher. I believe the RTR contains a mix of castor and synthetic.

I think Joe W said in another thread that he uses O'Donnell fuel, and adds some Klotz to it. I don't think he said which variety of O'Donnell fuel though.

Ian

 

[Rigged]

You can try running the Hobbico on 24 but I don't suggest it. They don't last too long. I use the Sullivan Deluxe Hi-Tork Starter. It has lasted 10 yrs on 24v with no problems.

Mike

Yup, that Sullivan Hi Tork with the Speedmaster Handle on 24 volts will start a diesel truck!

If you plan to run the Speedmaster handle, you can buy just the motor from Sullivan for about half the cost. I purchased the Dynatron motor last year for less than $50.00 shipped.

hehe.. well, the Torquemaster90 only liked 24v once to start the boat. Guess ill be purchasing myself a speedmaster handle with the dynatron motor. Was just looking at that at towerhobbies..i like the 680tq @ 24v :blink:

 

[DarthRigger]

You can try running the Hobbico on 24 but I don't suggest it. They don't last too long. I use the Sullivan Deluxe Hi-Tork Starter. It has lasted 10 yrs on 24v with no problems.

Mike

Yup, that Sullivan Hi Tork with the Speedmaster Handle on 24 volts will start a diesel truck!

If you plan to run the Speedmaster handle, you can buy just the motor from Sullivan for about half the cost. I purchased the Dynatron motor last year for less than $50.00 shipped.

It's actually on $34.00 for the Dynatron motor. Much better than buying the complete starter and retrofitting the handle to it.

Where would be the best place to order a Dynatron motor from I might just go this route myself

 

[Joe Warren]

Towerhobbies is the place..... best price & delivery to your front door....

 

[bsmtboy2]

Does the Speedmaster handle work on the big Sullivan Model 4 starter i hate the handle on it now and was wondering how to change it to something more practicle.

 

[Ron Olson]

Still, at the same price as the competition ( if you want to call that boat competition), you're getting a larger hull, engine, much better hardware and a radio box that won't leak badly plus room for a larger engine down the road, I don't see a downside. From the video it handles like a hydro ought to, not dragging its tail in the water.

 

[Russ Williamson]

I believe the 10% O'Donnell fuel is the "RTR" blend - which has more oil than the race blend.

yeah thats what it says on the bottle. RTR car blend. Any idea how much oil the rtr blend has?

Not really sure. I was recommended it by a good source, but I couldn't find any hard data on oil distribution. I would guess that the race fuel is around 13% oil, and the RTR higher. I believe the RTR contains a mix of castor and synthetic.

I think Joe W said in another thread that he uses O'Donnell fuel, and adds some Klotz to it. I don't think he said which variety of O'Donnell fuel though.

Ian

ODO RTR fuel has 12% total oil content. Race blend is less, which is good

Rw

 

[Joe Warren]

The speemaster handles fits most any 12 or 24v store bought starter motor.... it will not fit the homemade 12v Outboard motor starters I have seen.

 

[Joe_Knesek]

You can try running the Hobbico on 24 but I don't suggest it. They don't last too long. I use the Sullivan Deluxe Hi-Tork Starter. It has lasted 10 yrs on 24v with no problems.

Mike

Yup, that Sullivan Hi Tork with the Speedmaster Handle on 24 volts will start a diesel truck!

If you plan to run the Speedmaster handle, you can buy just the motor from Sullivan for about half the cost. I purchased the Dynatron motor last year for less than $50.00 shipped.

It's actually on $34.00 for the Dynatron motor. Much better than buying the complete starter and retrofitting the handle to it.

Where would be the best place to order a Dynatron motor from I might just go this route myself

Buy just the motor directly from Sullivan.

 

[Rigged]

You can try running the Hobbico on 24 but I don't suggest it. They don't last too long. I use the Sullivan Deluxe Hi-Tork Starter. It has lasted 10 yrs on 24v with no problems.

Mike

Yup, that Sullivan Hi Tork with the Speedmaster Handle on 24 volts will start a diesel truck!

If you plan to run the Speedmaster handle, you can buy just the motor from Sullivan for about half the cost. I purchased the Dynatron motor last year for less than $50.00 shipped.

It's actually on $34.00 for the Dynatron motor. Much better than buying the complete starter and retrofitting the handle to it.

Where would be the best place to order a Dynatron motor from I might just go this route myself

Buy just the motor directly from Sullivan.

I guess i talked to the wrong person or something...cause i contacted Sullivan directly about buying just a Dyntron motor, and i was told it would be $115 for the motor. Bit of a difference compared to $34 :unsure:

anywho, i got a Sullivan Hi-Tork off ebay and it finally arrived. Changed the pulley and changed out the switch after it kept stickin (have two 12v 7ah batterys as well now) and was finally able to get to start the boat up. Cranks it right over on 24v.. 12v the motor laughs at it like the Hobbico90 :lol:

OT:

Heard a weird noise from the motor when i shut it down, took it out of the boat and started taking it apart. It sounds like the rod is hitting something (when fully assembled), but when i pull the rear covor off it doesnt make the noise anymore I put it back in and now it doesnt make the noise anymore <_< <_< <_< any ideas?

 

[ids987]

You can try running the Hobbico on 24 but I don't suggest it. They don't last too long. I use the Sullivan Deluxe Hi-Tork Starter. It has lasted 10 yrs on 24v with no problems.

Mike

Yup, that Sullivan Hi Tork with the Speedmaster Handle on 24 volts will start a diesel truck!

If you plan to run the Speedmaster handle, you can buy just the motor from Sullivan for about half the cost. I purchased the Dynatron motor last year for less than $50.00 shipped.

It's actually on $34.00 for the Dynatron motor. Much better than buying the complete starter and retrofitting the handle to it.

Where would be the best place to order a Dynatron motor from I might just go this route myself

Buy just the motor directly from Sullivan.

I guess i talked to the wrong person or something...cause i contacted Sullivan directly about buying just a Dyntron motor, and i was told it would be $115 for the motor. Bit of a difference compared to $34 :unsure:

anywho, i got a Sullivan Hi-Tork off ebay and it finally arrived. Changed the pulley and changed out the switch after it kept stickin (have two 12v 7ah batterys as well now) and was finally able to get to start the boat up. Cranks it right over on 24v.. 12v the motor laughs at it like the Hobbico90 :lol:

OT:

Heard a weird noise from the motor when i shut it down, took it out of the boat and started taking it apart. It sounds like the rod is hitting something (when fully assembled), but when i pull the rear covor off it doesnt make the noise anymore I put it back in and now it doesnt make the noise anymore <_< <_< <_< any ideas?

Is this the K&B 67 you mentioned ?

 

[Rigged]

yes its the K&B 67

 

[Joe_Knesek]

I guess i talked to the wrong person or something...cause i contacted Sullivan directly about buying just a Dyntron motor, and i was told it would be $115 for the motor. Bit of a difference compared to $34 :unsure:

Rigged, I do not know who you talked to but if you go to their link I included in my previous note and scroll down to part # S98603 you will find the price listed as $34.24.

Maybe the price you got was for the "Limited Edition" model.

 

[TonyKilbarger]

I bought a replacement motor for my dynatron a year ago. Called them up and they sent it to me within a week. Here is their web page with the info. I had this so I told them exactly what I wanted and was fine. The motor itself is toward the bottom.

Sulliva Starters

 

[ids987]

yes its the K&B 67

I guess it depends what kind of noise, but I assume it sounds abnormal.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm assuming it's rear disk-rotor induction. If so, does the rotor make a noise when you spin it on the backplate outside of the engine, and does it feel free to turn, without excessive side play ?

I assume you've checked the crank-pin is engaged in, and driving the slot in the rotor disk (please don't be insulted - I'm not sure how much experience you have). Otherwise, and again, assuming it's rear disk induction (I haven't seen a K&B 67 marine that wasn't, although I haven't seen many), perhaps the end of the crankpin is binding on the rotor disk as it turns, perhaps caused by inadequate clearance, perhaps missing backplate gasket ? continuing with this theme, does the noise improve if you loosen the backplate screws a little (maybe half a turn all round) - best to only turn it over by hand like this, but then the same would apply when the backplate is off the engine as well.

Food for thought:

Ian