Sealing wood need info

[Michael Hopkins]

Hi guy's , I have sealed wood with epoxy and I've used f/g resin and really dislike doing it that way so I'm looking for a new way and I was looking at the Thomsons water sealer and Minwax , Cobot and I wanted to know if anyone on here has used any of these products to seal your hulls or sponsons and how it worked for you , I would use the water base so it could be sanded and painted.

Please let me know what you have had good luck with.

Thanks

 

[Duck899]

West systems for me, I put that stuff on everything

 

[Mike Starrett]

I have used Minwax Marine Satin polyurethane on almost all my wood boats. I use Acrylic Urethane as a final coat after any paint or just over the polyurethane. The insides are all epoxy though.

 

[SayMikey]

Ive used minwax takes lots of coats,but it does hold up good. Mas sands like butter trick is let to cure a few days.

 

[Michael Hopkins]

I have some of the Mas but have never used it any other helpful tips Mikey

 

[Michael Hopkins]

sorry double post

 

[Hydro Junkie]

I'm like Duck, West Systems on everything

 

[Steven Bryant]

West systems seems to be the best in my limited experience

 

[moparbarn]

if you are not wanting to use epoxy to seal, try sanding sealer. thin as water, soaks in & seals very well (after all, it is a sealer) & sands out nicely. it's kinda like a clear primer/sealer for wood. i use deft brand lacquer based sanding sealer, available at most home supply stores (i get mine at lowes). all i've been using for 3+ years now. automotive paints & clears will go right over it & are needed, 'cuz it's not fuel proof. a LOT easier than sealing with epoxy & a LOT lighter, too. i still use epoxy for the engine & fuel tank areas.

 

[dave roach]

I build with west system 105-206 and seal with the 105-207 the 207 sands real nice

Dave.

 

[steve wood]

klass kote clear

 

[Jerry Betke]

Because of the expense of West System Products I do not use different hardeners with the 105 epoxy. I glue and seal all my wood boats with 105 - 205. The 205 hardener is difficult to sand so one must find a way to make things work. The system I use to seal the outer skins is to use a lint free cloth (Old T-Shirt) to apply the 105-205 mixture and then rub it into the wood. Always remove all excess epoxy. When it dries there is only a light coat of glazed epoxy on the surface to sand. I recommend letting the epoxy cure for a couple of days before sanding. This will minimize the amount of clogging to the sandpaper.

 

[Mike Byer]

Dupont 2 part automotive clear thinned 100% with fast thinner brushed on, it will soak it up like a sponge and go deep into the wood. 2 coats of that and then primer or more clear, whatever you plan to do. Epoxy is just too much work for me.

mb

 

[Tom Foley]

Because of the expense of West System Products I do not use different hardeners with the 105 epoxy. I glue and seal all my wood boats with 105 - 205. The 205 hardener is difficult to sand so one must find a way to make things work. The system I use to seal the outer skins is to use a lint free cloth (Old T-Shirt) to apply the 105-205 mixture and then rub it into the wood. Always remove all excess epoxy. When it dries there is only a light coat of glazed epoxy on the surface to sand. I recommend letting the epoxy cure for a couple of days before sanding. This will minimize the amount of clogging to the sandpaper.

This works really well as I used to brush it on and sand for days !!!

Rounding and sanding all the edges of holes , lids etc really helps whatever you use to seal flow and bond more evenly . Rounding off the tops of stringers etc really makes them easy to seal . Still a total pia if you are in a hurry !!

 

[dwilfong]

zpoxy finish coat. mix 50/50 no mus no fuss. brush it on let sit 1/2 to a hour. Then use a old credit card to scrape off the excess.

Let sit over night. then use a razor blade and scrap it down.

Very easy and quick.

Smooth as a babies you know what. best and lightest finish you will get.

Easy to repair the boat later also. just redo the spot you replace the same way.

Also use this for glass or CF reinforcement work.

And its cheep!

Don't have to spend extra $ on a large amount or try to figure out what to mix and how much.

one box will do any boat +

 

[Ray Sametz]

http://www.intlwaters.com/index.php?showtopic=54768

 

[Michael Hopkins]

Mike Byer how hard is it to sand the Dupont clear and how long do you have to wait to sand , the fast thinner is that the paint and clear reducer the same

 

[Mike Byer]

the clear is thin to start with, it's ment to be shot staight out of the can after the hardner is added, I thin it with laquer thinner so it will soak in deeper and the fast thinner flashes off fast, should be able to sand in 10-12 hrs. if done in a warm shop. Mas with the no blush hardner is the best epoxy to sand, it doesen't gum up the paper as bad as others, but it's thick and won't get ionto the wood as deep and adds more weight.

 

[Dan Kramer]

I like the razor blade. once you learn how to do it, much faster and less dust mess and a better, smoother finish.

 

[Chilli]

I use Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES). Mixes 1:1, goes on thin and soaks right into the wood. Seals it and makes the wood stronger adding minimal weight. On my smaller riggers I put two or three coats and a light sanding with 800 grit and I have a nice clear mat finish. I've also sprayed Klass Kote over it and have had no peeling what so ever. I used it on all my wood boats and any wood part that goes into my glass boats.

http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/product.html