Rigger Set-up

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Preston would definately give you a hard time about that. I would too!

I just write everything down in my boat bible at the end of the day when nobodys

looking.
 
John Finch said:
I just write everything down in my boat bible at the end of the day when nobodyslooking.

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Yes he does. John's got the most extensive notes I've ever seen, goes back YEARS....... :blink:
 
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I use the board/glass for building and the digital level for set-up. If the boat becomes ill handling or the launch is difficult. Go back to the board to check square, then back to the level for angles.

Come on Preston... Give the people what they really want. Everyone edited their posts in hopes to learn something. Get on with the building and set-up thread and we promise to behave.

Ron
 
Don Ferrette said:
John Finch said:
I just write everything down in my boat bible at the end of the day when nobodyslooking.

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Yes he does. John's got the most extensive notes I've ever seen, goes back YEARS....... :blink:

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Trouble is, I can't read my own handwritting and I have a bad memory, so my Axim works for me.

Since I live hours away from a boat pond, most of my setup time is done the day before a race, in open water. I've grown used to and don't really mind it. To me, it's better than testing by myself and finding the boat on it's back on race day because I missed the setup.
 
Preston,

:rolleyes:

Step back.......... Deep breath....... That's it............

Now............

I don't recall mentioning the necessity of any flatness. Hell, the Corian isn't what I'd call flat. I only mentioned the flatness of the Mic6 to illustrate that it is PLENTY flat enough. Are you listening......... Mic6 is a trade name for "ground sheet aluminum". Go back and see where that was originally stated........

I don't think anybody is intending to carry their set-up board to the pond every time, and I certainly wasn't suggesting that anybody do so. It's just nice to have something you can easily take to the pond when you're tweaking your set-up. If you've never seen the set-up board we're talking about, maybe it is you who should sit back and listen.

If the shelf board doesn't warp, why do you buy one a year. Who the hell wants to build a new ANYTHING once a year? What we're talking about is a one time deal. Unless you sell it, lose it or whatever, you will never have to build another one again. EVER..............

Just because YOU don't understand something, doesn't mean that it won't work as well as YOUR ideas. This set-up board is one of the most innovative works I've seen in this sport. Nearly everybody else at that particular race would agree with me.

OH! and ........

Quit putting words in people's mouths...........

Turning my back......... <_<

Guys,

This set-up board is all that and a bag of chips. If you've ever loosened your strut bracket, tweaked you strut, tightened it back up and wondered how much you've actually moved it, this is the trick to eliminate that doubt. It will help in setting up tub height/attitude and sponson angles, too. Getting back on topic.........

What Joe is looking to do is to map out the entire hull given a specific change in one aspect of the hull. If you change the AOA, it is most likely going to change the slope of the tub and the angle of the rear sponsons as well. If you don't know what all changes, you don't know what the changes you DID make actually accomplished.

Joe,

I truely appologize for setting your thread up for derailment. From now on, I'll stick to E-Mails. Epecially since it's MY boat we're talking about..........

Thanks. Brad.

Titan Racing Components

BlackJack Hydros
 
Joe,

I truely appologize for setting your thread up for derailment. From now on, I'll stick to E-Mails. Epecially since it's MY boat we're talking about..........

Thanks. Brad.

Titan Racing Components

BlackJack Hydros

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I'm the last one that should say anything about derailing a thread. Thanks for helping me find the Corian. I ordered it tonight. $33.00 total to my door. Plus the cost of the part you are making me.
 
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don,

even thought the stuff is flat it has a tendency to bow after a while due to humidity and temp change.. I guess it is just a precaution..

chris
 
Brad,

Putting words in other people's mouth, what ever. I think I usually come on here with some nice and PRACTICAL help and not a bunch of over engineered ideas. I had stepped back and then I made this mistake. Funny how I can tell people what has worked for me and others and be corrected on them. I should just read from now on. Seen 80 yet?
 
Preston_Hall said:
Brad,Putting words in other people's mouth, what ever. I think I usually come on here with some nice and PRACTICAL help and not a bunch of over engineered ideas. I had stepped back and then I made this mistake. Funny how I can tell people what has worked for me and others and be corrected on them. I should just read from now on. Seen 80 yet?

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Preston, can you share that photo of your set-up/building table? The one with the nice clamping device?
 
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Hi Joe

go to the photo gallery and see how a did my set up board(32X12X1 1/2"thick) also my stand that works for all my riggers on the last five years.Despite made of wood(a very hard wood called Jatoba) there are no warps and is still flat.

As Jonh Finch said with the help of the digital level you can work on your boats with no worries even using an ordinary pvc stand.

I did understood your personal needs and every different ideia can help a lot .

Thanks ,best regards

Gill
 
gil sonsino said:
Hi Joe

go to the photo gallery and see how a did my set up board(32X12X1 1/2"thick) also my stand  that works  for all my riggers on the last five years.Despite made of wood(a very hard wood called Jatoba) there are no warps and is still flat.

As Jonh Finch said with the help of the digital level you can work on your boats  with no worries even using an ordinary pvc stand.

I did understood your personal needs and every different ideia can help a lot .

Thanks ,best regards

Gill

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Very nice. I like that building jig too!
 
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I've been using a Dell handheld with Excel for a few years to record fuel settings and have learned a ton. I'd use my laptop but I don't think I could stand the laughing from my buddies. Not to mention Preston!

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Joe, I just sent you a PM...........
 
Joe,

On the setup table.......I always set the boat up with the tub having a negative

angle of attack with the rear of the strut on the table. BUT, as you know, the boat does not ride at that attitude down the straightaway. The prop lifts the transom out of the water, which makes your sponsons at a lesser angle of attack than what you set it up for on the setup board. SO..........Depending on what prop you use.....the actual angle of attack of the sponsons changes with the lift characteristics of the prop. Something to think about. When I run the v967 as opposed to the 1667 I have to raise the strut because the v967 raises the transom more than the 1667.
 
John Finch said:
Joe,On the setup table.......I always set the boat up with the tub having a negative

angle of attack with the rear of the strut on the table.  BUT, as you know, the boat does not ride at that attitude down the straightaway.  The prop lifts the transom out of the water, which makes your sponsons at a lesser angle of attack than what you set it up for on the setup board.  SO..........Depending on what prop you use.....the actual angle of attack of the sponsons changes with the lift characteristics of the prop.  Something to think about.  When I run the v967 as opposed to the 1667 I have to raise the strut because the v967 raises the transom more than the 1667.

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Thanks for the advice John. If you don't mind, once I get the set-up board completed, I'd like to send you the data to take a look at.
 
John Finch said:
Joe,On the setup table.......I always set the boat up with the tub having a negative

angle of attack with the rear of the strut on the table.  BUT, as you know, the boat does not ride at that attitude down the straightaway.  The prop lifts the transom out of the water, which makes your sponsons at a lesser angle of attack than what you set it up for on the setup board.  SO..........Depending on what prop you use.....the actual angle of attack of the sponsons changes with the lift characteristics of the prop.  Something to think about.  When I run the v967 as opposed to the 1667 I have to raise the strut because the v967 raises the transom more than the 1667.

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I sure hope people are taking notes from you John because this stuff is gold......

I also like the fact that John doesnt have an ego either. :D

I have seen it so many times were someone is testing different props on there boat but they don't not change the strut to match.

As you said every prop has different lifting characteristics and you have to adjust

the strut to get the most from each prop.

Yes that cupped prop made your boat go faster but maybe it was because it has less lift than the stock and you were running to tight in the first place.

Tim K
 
yeah i'tl warp after a year. i used 2x2 aluminum angle, 2 pieces length of board on the bottom.
 
take a good flip and the strut moves. add or remove boom shims, it changes the strut angle. different water conditions, different shim set different strut angle. different prop different shim set different strut angle. .100 degree different strut angle absoutely makes a difference!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! as you can see, the set up board is with us at all times.

o and i've tried the digital level thingy. i don't like em!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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TomMoorehouse said:
how do you guys measure strut angle without a digital level???
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You can use trig. If the thing is setting on a flat surface and you know how long the strut is, then you can measure the space between the flat surface and the strut with shimstock and hence plug it in the equation and you have your angle. Clear as a swamp right?
 
Tom,

I do it by placing a block under the strut. With the boat on the table add a Square block under the strut. It raises the rear of the boat. Depending on how tall the block is with the strut flat on the block, will determine the angle of the strut when you take the block out and let the strut hit the table. That is the most accurate way I have found. For example.......If i put a 3/8th inch block under my strut and make the strut level on the block. When I take the block out the angle of the strut is 1/2 degree negative. I does't matter what the measurement of the strut is in degrees, because i just know from experimentation that is the easiest setup method for that particular hull and prop.
 

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