Project- ( RIPTIDE R-12 )

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Don Templeton

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 13, 2002
Messages
1,155
Just thought I'd get this new topic going to let you all know where I'm headed with the new RIPTIDE R-12. "Also known as the shark hunter." ;D I'm kind of short on time these days but I'll fill in with specs and weights later. Here are a few pictures!
 
Don, nice boat. Where are the candles?

Like the rear single spoon idea. What's the ride pad width on your front HC spoons?
 
Thanks Eric,

Hammer/Cuts - 1-1/4" ride surface ( Total width - 2" )

Conventionals - 1-1/2" + 1" ride pads

The candles come later. I'm trying to find some very light ones! ;D
 
RIPTIDE R-12. "Also known as the shark hunter."
Just remember that Hunters usually follow their prey, & sometimes the "hunter" becomes the "hunted" ;) LOL, just kidding! ;D I like the design, especially all the options with the sponsons. It really looks like this size rigger is going to be really popular, which is great for all of us & our hobby!
 
:eek: Don!!!!

That first pic is GREAT!!!!! Hey just send me your spares and I'll grab a tub from Tom "AHEM" And I got a rigger!!!!

Great work Dude, Man your bench is TOOOO clean :p

Gene ;D
 
Can somebody please explain what exactly the "hammer Cut"sponsons do for the hydro? Is it launchability? Looks ? Stability? please help me to understand how/why these work. Thanks Tony J
 
In a nut shell, they help to counter act prop walk. Keeps it going straight.
 
Why?

The only thing I can see is that they may keep your boat from stuffing in rough water! :-

I would like to hear from Hammer on this.
 
Since I did the CAD work for the Hammerhead 12 I do know Hammer's theory, but it is up to him if he wants to give out or not. :-X He does allude to it in the "Project Speed" thread somewhere though, I just don't remember exactly where. ???
 
Small addition to Riptide bottom.

Flywheel well with drain hole to allow lowering of engine and CG.
 
Can somebody please explain what exactly the "hammer Cut"sponsons do for the hydro? Is it launchability? Looks ? Stability? please help me to understand how/why these work. Thanks Tony J
HC= [Hammer Cut]

I tested the Nitro Trident SR12 with and without a variation of the HC front spoons. From personal experience it will allow the front of the spoon to be wider than "normal" which will prevent stuffing the front end when going into real rough water. The wide front tips also force the spoons to ride "over" the waters surface while you are launching.

The built-in anti-trip capabilities of the HC spoons allows the boat to corner on rougher water whithout spinning out. They also allow you to keep 90deg on both sides of the spoon while you are building (Helps a bunch to keep things straigth when you are drilling the holes for the booms).

The other benefits of the HC is that riggers will be able to turn left (Yes, it does happen). This is accomplished by the steep built-in anti-trip angle.

I like the HC because it makes it easy to modify the boats riding pad to optimize lift with drag. It also makes the front spoons look cool ;D

As far as making the boat ride the prop less or more? I think that is totally a result of the reduction in the contact area of the bottom of the ride pad. When you are running a 1" pad there is going to be contact with the water -which will tend to keep the boat tracking straight... or more so than when you have wider pad with less pressure. I think we should also mention that we are running the bottom of the spoons with little or no dihedral. This increases the lift of the ride area.

I think that small ride surfaces tend to make the boats more stable for heat racing -but that is just my opinion...

On a boat that's just a few onces over 2lb. running pads must be kept small unless you want the boat to look like a jumping tuna in the back straight -That one is from personal experience too... : :)
 
Looks like Erics got the idea in a bag. I couldn't have explained it better. I think that the effect of the Hammer cut (if done right) is

most noticible on the smaller riggers. The idea in general is to create more drag on the air and water surface to oppose the torque at the prop. This will allow you to run straight with 0 degrees trim in your rudder. I will of course depend on the over all balance of your rigger, whether you will get it perfect or not. I played hit and miss with my HH.12. Just happened to hit it right on the head the first try. You may have to play around with the widths of the running pads to get the optimum ride for your rigger.

If the running pads have no or minimal (mine have no) dihedral than there is less drag. (SAW theory) If you can run straight at full throttle with your rudder trimmed at 0% and your strut at 90 degrees, there will be no loss on the transom. You will also be able to come out of corners with out having to counter turn to get back in line. In my opinion this is a must for heat racing.

Hammer
 
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