Proboat Miss Geico

[toyotatruckin]

Havent done a thread here for quite a while so figure I would toss one up, Starting into electrics (again) with Miss Geico RTR and am removing some factory Issues right out of the box, the ride surfaces are less than desirable and in every pad there is a low spot, no crisp edges either, next is the hardware and stuffing tube, the Teflon liner has to go but the catch here is the tube is not a standard size so its being replaced, the hole in the strut is also larger than a standard .150 size stuffing tube with a pressed in solid bushing that again is a tight fit on a standard 3/16 stub-shaft (the strut blade itself is 4 pieces the bullet on the front is removable, a short solid bushing another pressed in reducer and the strut itself--kind of a wasted Idea) the actual inline hardware on the back is a copy of a black jack 26 skater system made by the company not named-brackets are identical down to a few thousands of an inch trust me I have the cad plans of the original-

Overall I like the general look of the boat its one of the better built rtrs out there and the electronics seem solid. Added bonus is the boat came factory with an MR3000 RX true spektrum marine RX not a generic one!

Im in the process of working over the bottom, the ride surfaces are trued up, factory stuffing tube removed the ramp for it on the bottom was shortened, lined up straight with the strut and re angled a bit, installing a 1/4" stuffing box in its place with a 7/32 stuffing tube, (its going to have the bushing integrated into the stuffing tube with a 1/4 sleeve at the strut end) that set-up ive done a few times before and works very well--but need the stuffing box set-up incase the tube wears. I have offset the rudder with my own offset bracket and replaced the strut with a standard strut using the stock brackets and rudder itself. Here it is so far

Stock

Progress so far--Mix of milled fiber and resin topside, bottom of stuffing box was dayna glass build-up and glass cloth over that-

new strut slot was milled longer and wider and bracket holes milled oval to get it to fit in the stock brackets I also plan on modifying my own parts and the rudder a bit more for this application

 

[Darin Jordan]

Love it!

 

[toyotatruckin]

Love it!

Thanks, I think Im going to borrow your idea on the paint and just do the bottom for now, I like the geico color and the decals are already there

 

[misshydro]

Love it!

Thanks, I think Im going to borrow your idea on the paint and just do the bottom for now, I like the geico color and the decals are already there

YOTA IN FE??? WOW!!!! I wanted to get one,but waited to see how these run and any mods to get them to run faster.

 

[toyotatruckin]

yep I am, and getting deeper into it with every order Ive made --- I believe I could have payed for most of a seasons nitro fuel just with what ive spent on castle 5.5's lol

Jump missh, the quality of the newer proboat models is far better than what it was -ive had my hands on the Stiletto and own the geico both good quality and id own the tunnel if i had the extra cash-

im sure aquacrafts new cat is decent also but the closed hull design I dont like as it makes for more complex hull repair if its ever needed- the geico is an open hull so you can get into it

 

[misshydro]

yep I am, and getting deeper into it with every order Ive made --- I believe I could have payed for most of a seasons nitro fuel just with what ive spent on castle 5.5's lol

Jump missh, the quality of the newer proboat models is far better than what it was -ive had my hands on the Stiletto and own the geico both good quality and id own the tunnel if i had the extra cash-

im sure aquacrafts new cat is decent also but the closed hull design I dont like as it makes for more complex hull repair if its ever needed- the geico is an open hull so you can get into it

LOL... Joe talked to Grimracer.. The Motley Crew cat is his baby.. Mike had it at Toleto show.. Joe was ver impressed with the sturdy construction of the hull and alot of room in it too. Also Joe talked to a guy that he eat lunch with.. big pow wow ,all the boat ate lunch together at a Irish bar..lol.. oh brother. :unsure: The guy said he was one of the test piliot to race it last year and said it did great..Joe and I would like to see a shoot out on bother of those cats to see which one ran fast and has the better handling..Joe did mentioned that to grimracer..The ride surface it different on the motley crew cat.. kindof like a tunnel hull.. since Mike is a big tunnel hull fan..Joe did say He like the Miss Geico because it looks like the real deal.. Thats why I'd like the proboat hydros because the same reasons.

 

[Georg Franke]

I like it.

6S 3000mAh Lipos

No changes

))

 

[toyotatruckin]

My goal with the boat is to see what I can pull out of it on 4s

 

[Darin Jordan]

My goal with the boat is to see what I can pull out of it on 4s

Why are you changing out the entire driveline, hardware, etc?? The flex in that is a standard .150 with 3/16 stub. I replaced the teflon in mine and put on an Octura coupler, but otherwise haven't changed it and it seems to be holding up fine. I don't like the material they use for the bushing material, so I can understand changing that I guess.

You can get a lot out of the stock system. Just need a good prop and good cells. Eventually, you'll pull too much for the stock ESC.

 

[toyotatruckin]

My goal with the boat is to see what I can pull out of it on 4s

Why are you changing out the entire driveline, hardware, etc?? The flex in that is a standard .150 with 3/16 stub. I replaced the teflon in mine and put on an Octura coupler, but otherwise haven't changed it and it seems to be holding up fine. I don't like the material they use for the bushing material, so I can understand changing that I guess.

You can get a lot out of the stock system. Just need a good prop and good cells. Eventually, you'll pull too much for the stock ESC.

Not changing out the entire driveline I will still have the stock brackets on the back and most likely leaving the rudder and hing for now, as for the shaft-- I just prefer my props hangin off my own shafts,

The stuffing tube is an oddball size both inner and outer diameter that makes the strut hole odd in size to --standard bushings will not work in the stock set-up and the stuffing tube only goes as far as into the bullet on the back of the strut leaving it way to short to even reach a standard strut and I dont use liners.

Short and sweet of it--the stock parts will work fine just not my personal preference, PLUS hardware dont cost me anything but a little material and time

 

[Tim leyde]

Sorry

 

[Tim leyde]

Someone needs to do a shootout with the Motley crew and the Geico!!!

Tim

 

[misshydro]

Someone needs to do a shootout with the Motley crew and the Geico!!!

Tim

mike /grimrace told joe it would be great shootout! The motley crew running surfaces was redone so it wouldnt slide in the turns.. said it handles more like a hydro and runs on rails..Sorry yota..that I'd said somthing about the motley crew cat on your thread.. you know I still like the proboats..

 

[toyotatruckin]

LOL no problem here MissH, I Like Aquacraft, Proboat, or anyone else coming with good products! I have a local hobby shop owner that may be getting an aqua cat when he gets them in stock--if he does there will be some HD

 

[toyotatruckin]

Nothing fancy about this BUT it does look better than raw body-work lol

 

[Tim leyde]

What is the material you used?

 

[toyotatruckin]

rattle canned the bottom, acrylic lacquer, figure no fuel and for as little as there was being done It wasnt worth the effort to do base clear (I have some GM white base and did think on it though) will see how holds up. not a big deal to rag it off with thinner later but if I do that the whole boats getting painted.

The ride surfaces were regular body filler the stuffing box was put in with dayna-glass (resin jelly with hair)fiber glassed over with cloth and used 3m piranha putty to smooth the cloth pattern out and tiny bit of spot glaze on a scratch up front, top side of the tube was resin and milled fiber thats it for materials

Might add for the people that dont know removing a stuffing tube is a relatively clean and simple process-- if you want to leave the ramp under it dremal or razor blade a clean line about half way up the tube just through the material over the tube not the tube itself so it will break away clean, next a good hot soldering iron into the end of the stuffing tube to heat it up, then a little effort and they usually pull out clean, works with just about any material that would be used to hold in a tube.

 

[toyotatruckin]

Darin OR anyone that knows FE, Ive got a Tayama thrust bearing, am i correct saying you want the flex-hex to ride on the bearing all the time, the motor does not have any play at all going forward but does have a little going back so there is no way to "pre-load" it, in this case would you just butt the flex-hex up to it and call it a day?--going to be using an octura hex, learning the electric side of it so bare with me here lol

 

[Darin Jordan]

Darin OR anyone that knows FE, Ive got a Tayama thrust bearing, am i correct saying you want the flex-hex to ride on the bearing all the time, the motor does not have any play at all going forward but does have a little going back so there is no way to "pre-load" it, in this case would you just butt the flex-hex up to it and call it a day?--going to be using an octura hex, learning the electric side of it so bare with me here lol

I slide the coupler on until it just touches the bearing race. No "preloading" necessary...

 

[toyotatruckin]

Thank you DJ, when you add the Tayama bearing and use the octura flex-hex the original slot in the motor shaft only needs lengthened a little bit toward the motor, I cheated and tossed the motor on the mill to adjust the slot

Update:

Bearing and flex-hex is on, with the octura hex there was very little clearance between it and the mount (at least on mine) so I relieved the mount a little.