pond check list

[Andrew]

I've followed this great forum for awhile and just logged in. For those of us with short memories or just not enough pond time I wanted to establish a check list of speed tricks. Lets assume you have your boat trimmed, engine tuned and using prop of choice. I'll start it off but please add.

1. Clock the prop

2. Check Engine temp. to be operating in 210-220 degree range

 

[Andrew]

I've followed this great forum for awhile and just logged in.  For those of us with short memories or just not enough pond time I wanted to establish a check list of speed tricks.  Lets assume you have your boat trimmed, engine tuned and using prop of choice.  I'll start it off but please add.
1.  Clock the prop

2.  Check Engine temp. to be operating in 210-220 degree range

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I forgot to add pulling out the glow plug coil 2 turns. Any other helpful tricks out there that would help improve performance?

Cheers, Andew

 

[Propjockey]

How about...

Range check & rudder direction. I know, these are obvious...but they are also often overlooked when you get in a hurry.

Check for driveline drag.

Check for loose nuts/bolt/linkages.

Tighten the glow plug after starting. :angry:

 

[C.G.]

How about...
Range check & rudder direction. I know, these are obvious...but they are also often overlooked when you get in a hurry.

Check for driveline drag.

Check for loose nuts/bolt/linkages.

Tighten the glow plug after starting.  :angry:

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Propjockey,

Do you mean that you start the engine with the plug loose? If so, how loose?

 

[Propjockey]

Just "cracked open". If your engine has 'mondo' compression or your starter won't quite spin it, loosening the plug can help.

 

[Dr. Hydro]

I've followed this great forum for awhile and just logged in.  For those of us with short memories or just not enough pond time I wanted to establish a check list of speed tricks.  Lets assume you have your boat trimmed, engine tuned and using prop of choice.  I'll start it off but please add.
1.  Clock the prop

2.  Check Engine temp. to be operating in 210-220 degree range

104175[/snapback]

​

Hey Andrew......If you have a highly polished bottom on the boat you might want to scuff the bottom(parallel to the keel) with 150 to 200 grit wet or dry sandpaper. Lubricate the paper with soapy water so the paper does not stick to the bottom. The purpose of this exercise is to reduce friction and I realize there will not be a fantastic increase in speed but I feel every little bit helps.

 

[NAMBA860]

I've followed this great forum for awhile and just logged in.  For those of us with short memories or just not enough pond time I wanted to establish a check list of speed tricks.  Lets assume you have your boat trimmed, engine tuned and using prop of choice.  I'll start it off but please add.
1.  Clock the prop

2.  Check Engine temp. to be operating in 210-220 degree range

104175[/snapback]

​

WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY CLOCKING THE PROP?MY ENGINES RUN ABOUT 140 DEG ON THE WATER COOLED HEAD

 

[Andrew]

I've followed this great forum for awhile and just logged in.  For those of us with short memories or just not enough pond time I wanted to establish a check list of speed tricks.  Lets assume you have your boat trimmed, engine tuned and using prop of choice.  I'll start it off but please add.
1.  Clock the prop

2.  Check Engine temp. to be operating in 210-220 degree range

104175[/snapback]

​

WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY CLOCKING THE PROP?MY ENGINES RUN ABOUT 140 DEG ON THE WATER COOLED HEAD

104446[/snapback]

​

 

[Andrew]

I've followed this great forum for awhile and just logged in.  For those of us with short memories or just not enough pond time I wanted to establish a check list of speed tricks.  Lets assume you have your boat trimmed, engine tuned and using prop of choice.  I'll start it off but please add.
1.  Clock the prop

2.  Check Engine temp. to be operating in 210-220 degree range

104175[/snapback]

​

WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY CLOCKING THE PROP?MY ENGINES RUN ABOUT 140 DEG ON THE WATER COOLED HEAD

104446[/snapback]

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The prop blade should enter the water just after TDC, meaning the piston has fired as opposed to the prop blade entering the water at the bottom of the piston stroke. You will be amazed at the performance increase of this little trick.

Cheers, Andrew

 

[Ron Olson]

Oooooooooh! Indexing the prop! A local boater, Ric Carpenter told me about that. Do you figure in cable wind-up when you do that?

 

[Preston_Hall]

Don't waist your time with the prop indexing. Figure out how to setup the hull. Engines, props, and pipes are already there.

 

[Don Ferrette]

The prop blade should enter the water just after TDC, meaning the piston has fired as opposed to the prop blade entering the water at the bottom of the piston stroke.  You will be amazed at the performance increase of this little trick.
Cheers, Andrew

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This is a leftover from the solid driveshaft days. Cable wind up on a flex shaft is ever changing, as Preston said there's better ways to spend your time.

 

[Norm Doerr]

The prop blade should enter the water just after TDC, meaning the piston has fired as opposed to the prop blade entering the water at the bottom of the piston stroke.  You will be amazed at the performance increase of this little trick.
Cheers, Andrew

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This is a leftover from the solid driveshaft days. Cable wind up on a flex shaft is ever changing, as Preston said there's better ways to spend your time.

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There was a dominate racer in the 70s that dabbled with it on a twin. I never knew if it was just a distraction for the other racers or if it really worked. Of course that was on the solid shafts.

 

[Tim_Duggan]

Cat pee :lol: :lol:

 

[Lake S.P.O.R.T.]

Ok, lets say all is right in the perfect world of solid shafts and indexing the prop to the engine. Two stroke engine, one power stroke per revolution and....TWO blade prop. If the piston starts on its downstroke with one blade entering the water then, the piston will just be starting its upstroke just as the OTHER blade hits the water. So what advantage would there be even with a solid shaft? You have another blade hitting the water just as the engine rolls past BDC. Just seems to me that it would not matter for squat....unless you were running a one blade prop!

On topic...

1. If your prop won't cut you when you handle it, it is not sharp enough.

2. Perfectly balanced prop.

3. Don't overprop, especially on a stock engine. Especially an outboard.

A lot of frustrating engine woes can vanish if you let it turn up what it should.

 

[Ron Olson]

We're kinda getting off-topic here on this one point but there may be some props where indexing might work. One that comes to mind is the Octura X-440/3. Each blade has a different pitch so if you could put the blade with the most pitch on the downstroke you might see a little speed improvement.

 

[mark voorhies]

I've followed this great forum for awhile and just logged in.  For those of us with short memories or just not enough pond time I wanted to establish a check list of speed tricks.  Lets assume you have your boat trimmed, engine tuned and using prop of choice.  I'll start it off but please add.
1.  Clock the prop

2.  Check Engine temp. to be operating in 210-220 degree range

104175[/snapback]

​

Hey Andrew......If you have a highly polished bottom on the boat you might want to scuff the bottom(parallel to the keel) with 150 to 200 grit wet or dry sandpaper. Lubricate the paper with soapy water so the paper does not stick to the bottom. The purpose of this exercise is to reduce friction and I realize there will not be a fantastic increase in speed but I feel every little bit helps.

104443[/snapback]

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Try 400 to 600 wet paper, big increase speed, less drag through water.

 

[Andrew]

Try 400 to 600 wet paper, big increase speed, less drag through water.

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I remember reading about putting graphite in your paint for the bottom of the hull and wet sanding everytime you launched the boat. This was is in 1979--anyone tried this?

Cheers Andrew

 

[Joe_Knesek]

Try 400 to 600 wet paper, big increase speed, less drag through water.

104753[/snapback]

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I remember reading about putting graphite in your paint for the bottom of the hull and wet sanding everytime you launched the boat. This was is in 1979--anyone tried this?

Cheers Andrew

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I'd like to know how many of these "speed secrets" are used by record holders.

 

[Lake S.P.O.R.T.]

Well, I remember Andy Brown was quoted on here as saying that glossy=slow. That is what I would call from the horses (and record holders) mouth.