Peace out!

[Bob Koch]

Edited for blocked membership...

 

[Bob Koch]

Edited for blocked membership...

 

[misshydro]

Got the camera out and the table cleaned off.

It is looking like a boat for sure.

Next is the rear and front blocks that get carved down, then the front leading edge blocks to the 4 wings.... then the cowl.

moving forward!

bob keep the build up.. interested in building one soon.

 

[Bob Koch]

Edited for blocked membership...

 

[jwo]

Get the scale strut from accutech with 1/4 bushing and shaft w/3/16 stepdown. They have 2 versions of struts. I would go with the authentic version for your application. The CG should be as far forward as you can get it. inch or so behind the sponsons at most. That hull doesnt have enough air under it to keep the rear up. I think a prather 250 is a great prop. but some may have a better prop selection for that hull. most of all keep as much weight as far forward as you can. John

 

[Bob Koch]

Edited for blocked membership...

 

[Hydro Junkie]

Get the scale strut from accutech with 1/4 bushing and shaft w/3/16 stepdown. They have 2 versions of struts. I would go with the authentic version for your application. The CG should be as far forward as you can get it. inch or so behind the sponsons at most. That hull doesnt have enough air under it to keep the rear up. I think a prather 250 is a great prop. but some may have a better prop selection for that hull. most of all keep as much weight as far forward as you can. John

Another option would be a .250 flex cable with a .187 stub held by a ferule. I know many boats are set up in this manner which, as a benefit, prevents lost props is the flex cable should break. I would stick with the .67 for the engine as going bigger will make the boat illegal to race in the scale class.

 

[Pat Kinney]

Here it is! I have attached pics of the kit and will also post the progress of this kit as it reaches completion.

Pic #1 is the prototype hull that has been retired. Used to ensure exactfent for hardware and composite parts needed to finish this hull.

Pic #2 - #3 are pics showing the support structure in the wings, these fit like a rubucs cube and are strong enough for a 4 year old girl to stand on once epoxied up

Pic #4 shows the changes made to the sponson bulkheads from the plans used to keep strength and lighten up the load.

Pic #5 is the 85% layout of the kit where the sponson runners and skins are still missing... 2 more sheets to cut out then I will post the full up wood kit.

when complete I will post exact weight of the wood kit

I would like to throw out some thanks before this starts, THANK YOU Mr. Newton! THANK YOU Steve @ RC Boat Company! your cowling fits like a glove! I hope this helps you sell more in the future

Here we go!

Hi,

Would you mind giving the length and width of this boat?

Thank you,

Pat

 

[Pat Kinney]

Here it is! I have attached pics of the kit and will also post the progress of this kit as it reaches completion.

Pic #1 is the prototype hull that has been retired. Used to ensure exactfent for hardware and composite parts needed to finish this hull.

Pic #2 - #3 are pics showing the support structure in the wings, these fit like a rubucs cube and are strong enough for a 4 year old girl to stand on once epoxied up

Pic #4 shows the changes made to the sponson bulkheads from the plans used to keep strength and lighten up the load.

Pic #5 is the 85% layout of the kit where the sponson runners and skins are still missing... 2 more sheets to cut out then I will post the full up wood kit.

when complete I will post exact weight of the wood kit

I would like to throw out some thanks before this starts, THANK YOU Mr. Newton! THANK YOU Steve @ RC Boat Company! your cowling fits like a glove! I hope this helps you sell more in the future

Here we go!

Pls ignore. I messed up.

Pat

 

[Bob Koch]

Edited for blocked membership...

 

[Bob Koch]

Edited for blocked membership...

 

[Ray Sametz]

Big NOOOOOOOO on the spray foam. Cut pool noodles to fit and seal the cuts with torch. B) OMHO

 

[Hydro Junkie]

I have to agree with Ray on this one. Spray foam can destroy all that hard work, so why take the chance

 

[Dan Kramer]

i never had a WOOD boat sink yet. i dont use floatation in my wood hulls, just the glass ones . parts only (cowls, wings, etc. get foam, not spray foam , pool noodle type.

 

[Don Ferrette]

i never had a WOOD boat sink yet. i dont use floatation in my wood hulls, just the glass ones . parts only (cowls, wings, etc. get foam, not spray foam, pool noodle type.

If you open up bulkheads to save weight as most of us do it is possible to take on enough water to sink one. Saw a guy once **** near lose a wood scale after getting hit hard and opening up a deck seam. Had the retrieve boat been a tick slower that boat would have been gone for good. The quick and easy CHEAP INSURANCE is to cut up some 2" pink construction foam sheet into rectangles and drop them in just before you skin the top. The weight addition is absolutely minimal and the peace of mind is priceless. Remember the pink foam, while weighing way less than noodles, does not tolerate fuel or oil without sealing (which adds weight) so only put it in places fuel and oil can't get to. B)

 

[Hydro Junkie]

i never had a WOOD boat sink yet. i dont use floatation in my wood hulls, just the glass ones . parts only (cowls, wings, etc. get foam, not spray foam, pool noodle type.

If you open up bulkheads to save weight as most of us do it is possible to take on enough water to sink one. Saw a guy once **** near lose a wood scale after getting hit hard and opening up a deck seam. Had the retrieve boat been a tick slower that boat would have been gone for good. The quick and easy CHEAP INSURANCE is to cut up some 2" pink construction foam sheet into rectangles and drop them in just before you skin the top. The weight addition is absolutely minimal and the peace of mind is priceless. Remember the pink foam, while weighing way less than noodles, does not tolerate fuel or oil without sealing (which adds weight) so only put it in places fuel and oil can't get to. B)

But at the same time, if you don't cut out lightening holes and you do get water inside the hull, you will have it trapped with no way to get it out without removing the deck, bottom or using a long drill and drilling through the boat from the back. The problem with drilling after the fact is it also exposes bare wood to any water inside the hull which will saturate that wood as well as any wood around it as water will then have a way to get under whatever was used to seal the inside of the hull. I learned that lesson the hard way 30 years ago with my first boat. I didn't cut out lightening holes and, since it also wasn't in the instructions, no sealing inside the boat. I ended up with a water soaked piece of garbage that ended up in the dumpster after a radio failure put it into rocks in Blackfoot Idaho. I didn't see any damage but a cracked seam allowed half the boat to end up soaked :angry:

 

[Dan Kramer]

i never had a WOOD boat sink yet. i dont use floatation in my wood hulls, just the glass ones . parts only (cowls, wings, etc. get foam, not spray foam, pool noodle type.

If you open up bulkheads to save weight as most of us do it is possible to take on enough water to sink one. Saw a guy once **** near lose a wood scale after getting hit hard and opening up a deck seam. Had the retrieve boat been a tick slower that boat would have been gone for good. The quick and easy CHEAP INSURANCE is to cut up some 2" pink construction foam sheet into rectangles and drop them in just before you skin the top. The weight addition is absolutely minimal and the peace of mind is priceless. Remember the pink foam, while weighing way less than noodles, does not tolerate fuel or oil without sealing (which adds weight) so only put it in places fuel and oil can't get to. B)

i should clairfy a little further, my left/right sides are not open to the center tub. i have drain holes in the rear of the sponsons. i tape these shut so it is sealed, i peel the tape and if any water accumulates it can drain. it also lets the hull air out. if i was to use foam, it would be the pool noodle type. i get it at work, they use it in delicate parts shipping. i have boxes of it.

it been a while since i ran a scale, due to an accident it suffered.i i kinda forgot what i did.

i think don may remember the pictures. it was ugly.

new one is about 70% done.

 

[Bob Koch]

Edited for blocked membership...

 

[Bob Koch]

Edited for blocked membership...

 

[dave weagel]

bob,

i sent you a PM.

dave w.