Outrigger build help.

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adam eddings

Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2012
Messages
16
Hello all.

I am kind of new to r/c boating and I don't have a culb in my area.

I will be getting a Zippkits JAE 12G2 Pre-Built or the kit form with the hardware kit..

The engine .18 , exhaust , radio , fuel tank and servos will be from a rtr Pro Boat 1/12 formula hydro.

These may not be the best in the world but I think it's enought to get started

I am willing to upgrade parts as needed and listen to advise.

I could use a prop recomendation and a little set up info if possible.

Thanks in advance

Adam
 
Welcome Adam.

Where are you located? There may be someone near you that could help you out.

Is the motor from the Pro Boat new or has it been run before? You will probably have to try a few different props to see what will work with your setup, but something in the Octura 1440 range should be a good start. I'm sure Mark Sholund will help out with the prop selection.
 
I live just outside Memphis , Tn .

The engine has seen about a gallon of 20% car fuel.

The hobby store's don't have alot when it come to fuel most of it is for airplane's and car's.
 
Adam,

The JAE kit was invented and designed for exactly the guy like yourself. Just so happens, it has become a hit and now holds several records in the IMPBA. Outfit it with what you have available and build on it as the funds become available. There's several excellent choices out there for engines. When your ready Glenn Quarles has a bunch of excellent Nova Rossi choices including one in the low $200.00 range. Don't be mis-led by the price, it's an excellent choice and performs real well. Take Rod up on the phone call as he designed the boat and will lead you in the right direction. Rod's a wealth of information, honest and straight forward and an all round great guy Most of all, ENJOY and welcome to the hobby!

Ron
 
Adam welcome a board the club and enjoy the fun you will have with this boat.If you need some help take a look to my website to see the step by step of this building and do not hesitate to ask for help.This is the best place to start boating!

Gill

www.grsboats.com.br
 
I got the hardware kit in Saturday from Zippkits but no boat yet.

One of the things I was going to do today was polish all the parts coming off the Pro boat and maybe the Zippkits hardware so they match and look pretty.

I have read where people are talking about sharpening the rudder and I have a sharpening kit I don't use so aluminum on the stone would present no danger. I was wanting to know if this is really a good idea and if so what angle.
 
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I don't know if I should keep this here or move it to another area but here it goes.

After a late night of polishing I noticed that the exhaust side flange of the header was flat along with the input side of the tune pipe.

I cut a angle into the output side of the header and a matching angle into the input side of the tune pipe then polished the inside of the pipes.

I know the 2 stroke nitro engine is a blow thru and works on a scavenging but I could not see a reason as to why the in or out between the header and tuned pipe would hit a wall.

Please keep in mind I am working with rtr parts.

Has any one else done this or do aftermarket parts come like this?
 
My weekend has came around again so it's back to working on the boat.

I have tried to hand fit most of the parts in and have run into a problem of the lack engine mount bolt's and the flex cable being to long.

I will try to go to Memphis and check a few store's for bolt's for the mount.

My question today is there a proper way to cut the flex cable?

I will have to make modifications to the engine mounts to make them fit the Pro boat .18 because of the Tiger drive starting system.

I do have a Hobbico Torqmaster 90 I could use if I swapped engines now but I do have a lack of marine engines and fuel above 20% in my area.

I was just wordering if I did this now what would be the engine of choise on a budget for the 12g2 with Zippkits part # 3481 for engine mounts?
 
You can cut the flex cable with a grinder. Go easy and round of the tip. Some people solder the tips, but I haven't in years.
 
Adam, Nova Rossi .12 5 port and header from Glenn Q, best bang for the buck for sure and most would agree it will out perform the stock PB .18. It will fit on your engine mounts you have without mod's and your PB pipe you have is a splittin image of the Mac pipe most/myself run on the NR .12 and works very well. It will like the higher nitro over the 20% and there is resources for the high nitro out there. If I'm understanding correctly what you did to your header and pipe I have read that mod can free up some rpm's, Matt
 
Ok so a cut off wheel on the dremel is cool.

I have a Zippkits 440 prop (4007).

I know how to make the a engine do more than it's rated for.

I have alot of time on my hands with 4 days off because of 4x4 work.

I have port matched the header, polished the inside of the block to the sleave and polished the sleave to meet the block.

I have polished all ports on the sleaves .

I have polished the crank and removed burrs.The carb I have increased the air horn size of the bevel and polished the other side..

My Pro boat .18 very well may smoke a Rossi .12 but I dont want to buy 1 to find out. I think bigger is better so I dont want to step down cubic inch wise.

Rpm may be king but it takes something to drive it.

I don't want to seam like a smart A$$ but I have done alot of work to the .18 just to give up for a smaller engine.
 
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I ran into a problem shoe horning the .18 in with the tiger drive.

I sanded out about 1/8" to much on each side of the engine mount wood.

Any suggestion on how to repair this area?

I am thinking about Jb weld but don't know how it act's with wood , cutting up some balsa wood and laminating it, gluing in some 1/4 plywood and sanding it down to fit , maybe some fiber glass...

I had to grind the side's off the engine and the cooling fins on the rear of the Tiger dive and have about 1/16" clearance between the Tiger drive and rear brass .

The engine is as far foward as I can go and after cable is cut i will have less than 1/4" between stuffing tube and the collet.

I also got a gallon of 50% from the hobby store and they said there is a small group running boats in my area but they did not know where.

I also got a deaf Great Dane pup which kind of led to the grinding out to much today.
 
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