O/T question

[TimD]

Guys,

I just scored an air compressor. I'm a complete novice with this stuff but I am keen to learn and I'm hoping I can avoid buying the wrong stuff. I only want this for boating use and don't plan on doing autobody stuff etc.

I need to get a paint gun and I believe that a HVLP gun is the way to go. I think I would also need amoisture trap. Anyone prepared to give me some advice?

Thanks,

Tim.

 

[BradV]

Tim I'm no spray paint expert so I won't answer that.

But as a side issue to this thread I would like to start using my compressor with high speed cutting and polishing fittings for the boats. So does anyone know what is a good brand or style of air tool for this sort of thing.

 

[Mick J]

Brad, For polishing hardware etc, all I do is use a stitched sizal polishing pad for a rough polish, then I change to a calico wheel for final polishing. You can buy these wheels and polishing compouns sticks at Bunning's in Mandurah (that's where I got mine). You can get different sizes I currently run one in my drill press, but will soon get the larger pair for my bench grinder, these are very simple and cheap. I originally thought of the compressor thing but didn't want to purchase anymore air tools.

Tim, I use a standard run of the mill gun with a 2mm tip for priming/clearcoats, then for colour I use a touch up gun (not sure on tip dia), I also have a pasche dual action airbrush that comes in handy. I am no painting expert by any means, but I have found for myself as long as the flows are set for the brand of paint you're spraying and you go lightly on the coats, you will have no major problems. My most expensive item was the airbrush and that was only $100 Oh yeah, I also run a moisture trap on my lines for added protection, it seems to do the job for me.

My two cents

Hope this helps

Johno

 

[BradV]

Thanks Mick, was thinking along the lines of a hand held air device to get into some smaller areas - such as the Dremel tool but in an air version.

But will check out those items.

 

[Don Ferrette]

Tim-

Water trap is a must, even with just air tools. Also use an in line moisture trap right at the gun. When I paint I have a disposable one on air hose & a reusable one screwed on the paint gun. As for a gun the Speedway HVLP gun off of Ebay (seller is PSW), it shoots nicer than my $100 HVLP gun. I liked it so much I now have 5 of them. One for primer, dark colors, light colors, clear & a spare.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...ssPageName=WDVW

 

[GTR]

Tim

Use a good regulator/moisture trap. A lot of people don't use enough hose between the compressor and the trap - mistake as the hot air out of the compressor still has moisture in it and it will pass right by the water trap condensing in the line (and on the paint). Cheap HVLP guns (1.2mm tip recommended) are available from PSW (like Don said - I got one ) This is the back-up for my dearer gun and guess what the parts interchange. Probably made in the same factory.

Other air tools - there is nothing that is as small as a dremel in air tools that will do the job. Air die grinder is considerably bigger although you could se it with a flex extension. Bit of a pain holding the trigger on though

I have plenty of practice with air tools - garage is full of them. Happy to share any knowledge with you.

Gary

 

[Ian Inverarity]

Hey Tim,

Have you bought that ELECTRIC linisher yet?

Nitrocrazed racing: Props in 1/2 an hour....

 

[Jerry Wyss]

Hey Tim, I have worked in autobody and I've painted many cars and model boats. Painting model boats does'nt require

the volume of paint that cars do. I have painted all my boats over the years with a small autobody detail gun; they're

cheap (about 30 dollars US) HVLP is great but not nesessary due to the increased cost of the gun. I use PPG system,,

The minimum required paint compound is Acrylic Urethane for nitro protection and Poly Urethane is better than that.

These systems are costly but they can save alot of time and work; example: I use base coat (DBU) for color and DCU

clear and the clear can be applyed after 20 minutes after the color (DBU) has been sprayed on! The System is designed

to Paint on the Least amount of Product in the shortest amount of time; hence, saving you the most amount of $ in paint,

Water trap is Ok if you have a large compressor running all day,,I have'nt ever used one on a small 6 gallon unit I use ,

cause you can release the air and blow off the water after use.

Enjoy Jerry

 

[Don Ferrette]

"HVLP is great but not nesessary due to the increased cost of the gun. I use PPG system,,"

I'll sort of disagree with this one as with HVLP, even detail gun size, you wind up with more product going on what you're spraying as opposed to into the air. Since switching from regular detail gun to HVLP detail gun I use alot less paint getting a boat painted. B)

I also shoot PPG DCC single stage. The only drawback to basecoat/clearcoat (besides more paint) is if you scratch the clearcoat & expose the basecoat, the basecoats are not fuelproof!

 

[Preston_Hall]

"HVLP is great but not nesessary due to the increased cost of the gun. I use PPG system,,"
I'll sort of disagree with this one as with HVLP, even detail gun size, you wind up with  more product going on what you're spraying as opposed to into the air. Since switching from regular detail gun to HVLP detail gun I use alot less paint getting a boat painted.  B)

I also shoot PPG DCC single stage. The only drawback to basecoat/clearcoat (besides more paint) is if you scratch the clearcoat & expose the basecoat, the basecoats are not fuelproof! 

Agreed. You can find many low cost guns (under $100). I propably use from 1/3 to 1/2 as much paint now. I always paint outside and with the HVLP I don't have overspray all over myself. I also think that the cleanup is much easier. Glad I switched. One big plus to the HVLP is that you don't need a compressor to handle high volumes of air.

Also, I never use a moisture trap. Guess I have been lucky so far.

 

[ClayGlover]

What pressure do you run into the gun on hvlp touch ups? The pressure leaving the compressor is what I would like to know, and also what pressure do you see and use on the guns guage? not that gun tip pressure crap.... haha, how the heck would I know what the tip pressure is? some special guage?

I seem to have to increase the pressure higher than what I read to be "normal hvlp pressure" to get good atomization. Something like 40 to 50 psi on the gun's guage with the trigger pulled. :huh: I set the compressor reg to the same pressure, is this correct or no? :blink:

 

[GTR]

Clay

Pressure at the gun is usually in the 25psi region - if you have 40-50psi its too high.

My regulator/water trap is usually set at between 35-45psi and I have quite a long hose from it too the gun. HVLP definitely applies more paint in less time with less overspray. Using a watertrap or not is up to the individual but depends very much on where you are and the humidity of the area. Heated air via a compressor pretty much guarrantees water unless your humidity is non-existant.

Other benefit of these little HVLP guns is that they have small gravity fed cups so you don't have to mix much paint each batch.

Bottom line is work out what you think you need and have some fun practicing.

 

[not2bright]

anyone have one of those little hplv guns from home depot or blowes i have thought about buying one. right now i have a autobody touch-up gun

 

[waterbug]

Guys HVLP is the only way to go.......

 

Tim over here [us] we have HARBOR FREIGHT.COM cheap!!!!!!!!! tools [ CHINA ]

 

10.00 air filter/oiler ......depending on cup size 19.00.......40.00 hvlp gun.........

 

 

 

The ones on Ebay are about the same tools just a little more expensive.......

 

 

Harbor Freight don't have it you don't need it............. they even sell push peddle cars !!!!!!!!!!!! I hadn't seen one of them since 1966................

 

[Jerry Wyss]

Well Tim, Are ya gonna do some painting? If ya do and you use one of these systems we've been talking about,,use the

"Whole" system, including , if nesessary, (sealer), primer, color and clear ( If clear is used). These things are all designed

to bond together,, that's why you have time period before the next coat,,,,but if you don't hear anything I say,,Here This;

DO NOT USE LACQUER PRIMER UNDER THESE SYSTEMS UNLESS IT'S A LACQUER SYSTEM!! Your great looking paint job

will look like bark coming off a tree,,,I know it's tempting,,,it dries so fast,,and sands so easy,,,,Don't Do It. It can; be alot

of fun,,and the rewards can be Highly gratifying. Tally Ho

 

[GTR]

Jerry - I agree with you 100% use the total system from one paint supplier and you will have a lot less risk of problems later. After a while you will learn what is compatable and what isn't - lean on the paint suppliers heavily as they have a wealth of knowledge and are mostly friendly.

I know you can get PPG paints here but I don't have much experience with them. I have used Glasurit, Spies Hecker, ProTech, and DuPont (Spartan). Lots of these paints are formulated at the same plants and just marketed under different brand names. Have had good success with them all - some are more expensive, higher pigmentation, higher viscosity blah blah blah. I have been using mostly ProTech paints lately (made by Glasurit manufacturer, Wattyl in OZ I think) and has been good and slightly less expensive. Critical things with 2 Pak paint - quality of reducer & hardners. Makes the paint look cheap. Forgot to say these are all Acrylic Urethanes, I use DuPont PolyUrethane clear over the top when required.

Happy to share my limited knowledge but first hand experience.

 

[TimD]

Hey thanks a lot guys.

Sounds like a HVLP gun is the way to go for me - I wan't to keep the paint on the boat and not all over me.

I think an in line water trap will be needed as I do get humidity here. I'll start looking around for stuff - this is a long term project

Another question regarding paint /paint systems. Do all of these systems require a clear coat? Are any of the colours durable enough and nitro proof without the clear? Just thinking that it would be easier and cheaper on paint if the clear wasn't needed. I'm not out to win concourse - just want to be self sufficient and paint is the main thing letting me down.

Tim.

Ian - not yet but looked at them yesterday. Finances have taken a battering this week as I had to service and change brake rotors on the car. I scored the compressor very cheap (i.e. free)

Still need to make a new bench to mount the linisher!!!

 

[GTR]

Tim most acrylic urethanes are good for up to around 50% - more if limited exposure. You mostly need the clear to blend multi colours together and seal in stickers. Unless you use metallic or pearl paints then clear is compulsory.

 

[Don Ferrette]

"use the "Whole" system, including , if nesessary, (sealer), primer, color and clear ( If clear is used). These things are all designed...."

ABSOLUTELY!!!!! B)

My PPG choices-

DX-330 for pre-paint cleaning

DZ-3 primer filler - for those pinhole filled no gelcoat glass hulls

DP48LF epoxy primer in white - as base or over DZ-3

DCC Concept colors w/ DFX-11 hardener (very fast - dust free in 5 minutes) & DT-870 reducer - all single stage NO basecoat/clearcoats.

DCC Concept 2021 clear on scale boats & over inked decals

DX-330 for pre-paint cleaning

So there ya go!

 

[TimD]

I am so glad I posted this here. Learning a lot Thanks again everyone B)

Don,

I'm mainly interested in painting wooden rigger's and the appropriate cowls in either ABS or 'glass. All of my boats get painted in the yellow /orange /red sunburst style. Sounds to me like the PPG DP48LF & DCC Concept colours would be the lightest / most durable way to go. Correct?

Hopefully it's the same stuff here as it is in the States.

Gary,

Do you have any hassles with buying small quantities of colours - I seem to remember being told by someone that can be a problem.

Tim.

Is there any merit in buying some cheapo paint to practice on scrap with or am I wasting time and money doing that???