Novarossi motors and castor fuel!

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Borrowed from modelenginenews. org

here's some words of real wisdom on castor from Bert Striegler. Read it and decide for yourself!

Back in 1983 there was quite a controversy in Radio Control Modeller magazine about the tests that were necessary to measure the "lubricity" of various oils that might be useful in model engines. Castor oil was used as the benchmark, but it was obvious no one knew why this was so. They apparently got a lot of info on various industry tests of lubricants, but these were really designed for other purposes. This was my answer. I will remind you that I was a lubrication engineer and not a chemist, but I drew my chemical info from Bob Durr, the most experienced lubricant scientist in the labs at Conoco. Bob worked with my group on many product development projects and I can tell you that he is one smart hombre! Small changes were made in the text, but surprisingly very little has really changed since this was originally written. Here goes with the answer:

"I thought I would answer your plea for more information on castor oil and its "film strength", which can be a very misleading term. I have never really seen a satisfactory way to measure the film strength of an oil like castor oil. We routinely use tests like the Falex test, the Timken test or the Shell 4-ball test, but these are primarily designed to measure the effect of chemical extreme pressure agents such as are used in gear oils. These "EP" agents have no function in an IC engine, particularly the two-stroke model engine types.

You really have to go back to the basics of lubrication to get a better handle on what happens in a model engine. For any fluid to act as a lubricant, it must first be "polar" enough to wet the moving surfaces. Next, it must have a high resistance to surface boiling and vaporization at the temperatures encountered. Ideally the fluid should have "oiliness", which is difficult to measure but generally requires a rather large molecular structure. Even water can be a good lubricant under the right conditions.

Castor oil meets these rather simple requirements in an engine, with only one really severe drawback in that it is thermally unstable. This unusual instability is the thing that lets castor oil lubricate at temperatures well beyond those at which most synthetics will work. Castor oil is roughly 87% triglyceride ricinoleic acid, which is unique because there is a double bond in the 9th position and a hydroxyl in the 11th position. As the temperature goes up, it loses one molecule of water and becomes a "drying" oil. Castor oil has excellent storage stability at room temperatures, but it polymerizes rapidly as the temperature goes up. As it polymerizes, it forms ever-heavier "oils" that are rich in esters. These esters do not even begin to decompose until the temperature hits about 650 degrees F. Castor oil forms huge molecular structures at these elevated temperatures - in other words, as the temperature goes up, the castor oil exposed to these temperatures responds by becoming an even better lubricant!

Unfortunately, the end by-product of this process is what we refer to as "varnish." So, you can't have everything, but you can come close by running a mixture of castor oil with polyalkylene glycol like Union Carbide's UCON, or their MA 731. This mixture has some synergistic properties, or better properties than either product had alone. As an interesting sidelight, castor oil can be stabilized to a degree by the addition of Vitamin E (Tocopherol) in small quantities, but if you make it too stable it would no longer offer the unusual high temperature protection that it did before.

Castor oil is not normally soluble in ordinary petroleum oils, but if you polymerize it for several hours at 300 degrees F, the polymerized oil becomes soluble. Hydrogenation achieves somewhat the same effect.

Castor oil has other unique properties. It is highly polar and has a great affinity for metal surfaces. It has a flash point of only 445 degrees F, but its fire point is about 840 degrees F! This is very unusual behavior if you consider that polyalkylene glycols flash at about 350-400 degrees F and have a fire point of only about 550 degrees F, or slightly higher. Nearly all of the common synthetics that we use burn in the combustion chamber if you get off too lean. Castor oil does not, because it is busily forming more and more complex polymers as the temperature goes up. Most synthetics boil on the cylinder walls at temperatures slightly above their flash point. The same activity can take place in the wrist pin area, depending on engine design.

Synthetics also have another interesting feature - they would like to return to the materials from which they were made, usually things like ethylene oxide, complex alcohols, or other less suitable lubricants. This happens very rapidly when a critical temperature is reached. We call this phenomena "unzippering" for obvious reasons. So, you have a choice. Run the engine too lean and it gets too hot. The synthetic burns or simply vaporizes, but castor oil decomposes into a soft varnish and a series of ester groups that still have powerful lubricity. Good reason for a mix of the two lubricants!

In spite of all this, the synthetics are still excellent lubricants if you know their limitations and work within those limits. Used properly, engine life will be good with either product. Cooked on a lean run, castor oil will win every time. A mix of the two can give the best of both worlds. Most glow engines can get by with only a little castor oil in the oil mix, but diesels, with their higher cooling loads and heavier wrist pin pressures, thrive on more castor oil in the mix.

Like most things in this old life, lubricants are always a compromise of good and bad properties. We can and do get away with murder in our glow engines because they are "alcohol cooled" to a large degree. Diesels, though, can really stress the synthetics we use today and do better with a generous amount of castor oil in the lubricant mix. Synthetics yield a clean engine, while castor oil yields a dirty engine, but at least now you know why!"
 
A few years back I ran a 73 Pak sport 60 in Utah with a O.S. 81 on 30% ODonnels. Not a true 1/8 scale as the pipe came out the back of the cowl. The boat would come in with a nice heavy layer of golden brown oil all over the inside of the verticals and rear deck- a friend called it the Exxon Valdez. Really fun boat to run. I do not know what's in Jack's fuel- just that there's enough lubricant to keep things alive.
I know exactly what that brown is.. but out of respect to the Odonnells (even though we own the rights to the fuel) I will continue to keep that a secret.

I will also say.. because of this additive (we did not want to change the ODO fuel) we developed our own Grimracer line of boat fuel..

Regards

Grimracer

P.S. I am not a fan of caster. YES is has some great properties BUT.. its over used in high RPM RC boating.
 
What kind of oil is used in grimracer fuel. I have a gallon of 30% and a gallon of 50% that I have been wanting to try but it doesn't say the percentage of oil or what kind of oil is used
 
Just flush your engines good if you use caster. You should always flush the motor not matter what fuel you use

Nails
 
Tony.. Light viscosity at 23%. I would like to leave it at that if I might. We to want to protect out oil package.

Grim
 
Lite oil package or not,.. I could never get the power out of GR 50% that I can from Johns 65% or Torco 66%,.. I did notice that plugs lasted much longer with the GR fuel I ran.. and the Blue color looks less like koolaide!
 
Mike Veta and Bll Mcgraw done dyno test on this topic years ago in Bills shop with a high dollar dyno Mcgraw owned and with ex temp sensors For every ounce of additional castor added to the fuel the exhaust temp at the header measuring point dropped 100 degrees. this was under load at speed on Nova rossi 21 long stroke and short stroke engines. Bills Only race & testing fuel he ran was Odonnell Fuel. There was No Other.
so with 6oz of castor in my mix I have 0 deg ex temp :huh:
Wild guess but something tells me the curve probably wasnt that linear :lol:
Funny, AS we all know there is more power in methonal than oil. if you remove the oil. What goes in the jug to add to the total gallon, methonal. these guys were adding ccs during the test but would relate to oz`s and not willing to go past 14 percent oil. Bill had the Only 84.3 mph 20 hydro Non Ski type.... I ever seen run on a stalker radar gun. seen it many many times. if you think it is easy? try it!!!!!! you will hit a wall about 80 mph. seen some 98 mph passes for SAW with same boat.... 15 years ago........ also witnessed truexs several 98 mph passes at huntsville last year. with a very special ski type 20 boat
 
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Tony.. before I forget... I will also go on to say our fuel is PURE SYN!.. No castor..

Good boating!

Grim
 
oil. if you remove the oil. What goes in the jug to add to the total gallon, methonal. these guys were adding ccs during the test but would relate to oz`s and not willing to go past 14 percent oil.
Maybe there's more to it than just the calorific value of the ingredients.... Viscosity, and it's effect on sealing area's or reducing tolerances in critical area's such as the crank seal or the taperd P&L fit at expansion temps perhaps?
 
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Some facts for you to read and decide - Castor oil versus Synthetic oil

The benefits and drawbacks of Castor bean oil:

Castor is a vegetable oil squeezed from the beans of the Castor plant, its a fatty acid ester, similar to what we see in very expensive, top of the range Polyol ester synthetics. When formulating 2 and 4 stroke engine oils using Castor as a base oil, one of the drawbacks is stearic acid. Approximately 2% of Castor bean oil is stearic acid. This portion of Castor oil produces the hard carbon and varnish deposits commonly associated with Castor based oils.

The other drawback is that when using low specific gravity (race fuel only 0.735Sp.G or Aviation fuel AV-GAS), castor oil may seperate from the fuel in very cold temperatures (-35F) NOT regular pump unleaded, it will stay mixed at low temeratures in unleaded fuel.

The Hotter The Better!!

Above are the drawbacks of using Castor oil. At this point someone might ask "Why would anyone want to use Castor bean oil?" Before you draw any conclusions, let us explain the benefits of using Castor oil.

First of all, Castor oil will stay fluid and not carbonise at temperatures over 700 degrees Farenheit. Not many fluids can make this claim, including most synthetics. Castor bean oil reacts on metal surfaces to build what is called "Platelets". The high film strength of these patelets keep the engine from having metal to metal contact points. Castor oil does one thing that neither synthetic oils nor petrolium oils can do - castor oil is attracted to heat, which means that it is drawn to the hotspots of the engine. (rings, cylinder, wall and bearings etc). When processed Castor oil does not change from season to season or vary its form depending on which region of the world it is grown in. Castor oils load carrying capability and high temerature stability are as good as any lubricant known to Man, Castor bean oils do burn a little dirtier, but on the other hand, they are a little less expensive than the high end Synthetic esters. Maxima feels that you can gain a little more performance and value for your money with Castor bean oil, than you can with the 100% polyol ester synthetic oils. Some of these oils do produce a cleaner engine, and in certain applications where there are long intervals between strip downs, this cleanliness is preferred.

What Maxima has done with the Castor 927 is to look at the drawbacks of using Castor oil and to compensate for them in our formulation with cutting edge chemistry, utilising detergents, and additional rust and oxidation inhibitors. The end product is what we describe as being extremely strong, clean burning and competitively priced.
 
Mike Veta and Bll Mcgraw done dyno test on this topic years ago in Bills shop with a high dollar dyno Mcgraw owned and with ex temp sensors For every ounce of additional castor added to the fuel the exhaust temp at the header measuring point dropped 100 degrees. this was under load at speed on Nova rossi 21 long stroke and short stroke engines. Bills Only race & testing fuel he ran was Odonnell Fuel. There was No Other.
so with 6oz of castor in my mix I have 0 deg ex temp :huh:
Wild guess but something tells me the curve probably wasnt that linear :lol:
Funny, AS we all know there is more power in methonal than oil. if you remove the oil. What goes in the jug to add to the total gallon, methonal. these guys were adding ccs during the test but would relate to oz`s and not willing to go past 14 percent oil. Bill had the Only 84.3 mph 20 hydro Non Ski type.... I ever seen run on a stalker radar gun. seen it many many times. if you think it is easy? try it!!!!!! you will hit a wall about 80 mph. seen some 98 mph passes for SAW with same boat.... 15 years ago........ also witnessed truexs several 98 mph passes at huntsville last year. with a very special ski type 20 boat
Funny you should say that about 14 percent...that is what me and my father still run 15% total oil 10% s and 5% c in our boats today. When me and my Dad played with the cars we were down to 9 percent total oil 6% s and 3% c,the motor's that we were running were 12's and 21's the temps were 280+ F and still held together...just sharing some info.
 
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I have been as low as 4% total oil.. as high as 20 +.. the major differences I see is not so much MPH but piston & sleeve FIT and LIFE. I won't go into detail.. just know I have tested ALOT of fuel over the yrs. and what works for one. don't always work for the other. I will leave it at that.
 
Boaters,

I have run tons of fuel like Chris and others.

We have always had a lot of success with Klotz oil products.

12% oil seems to work very well on our 12 and 21 motors.

Now if you step up to big blocks I would be in the 20%+ oil package

with bean oil added at 3% to the gallon. Just remember keep the needle

on the rich side and your lubrication will always be good. Lean needles

do the damage, not the oil package in the fuel.

Have Fun Testing,

Mark Sholund
 

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