No spark, attempting to ground the coils

[Matt Davis]

Changed the spark plug before testing seems the wire is getting no electricity through it, gonna try what a buddy of mine said and ground the coils together. What size wire or resistance would you wonderful people recommend to ground the coils. Also disconnected the kill switch too see if fault in it is causing no spark and no difference. Really REALLY hoping it's not improper spacing in flywheel or keyway because I was hoping to get a run in before having to rip the whole brand new motor apart

 

[Matt Davis]

New plug grounded on the head not the aluminum cooling jacket and not even a small or weak spark just nothing. Has fuel has air, has compression, no spark

 

[Wasted wages]

Can you remove the spark plug boot from the coil wire ? If so, test for spark from the wire directly to ground. I've seen many a botched up plug boot connection cause a no-fire / misfire situation..

 

[Daniel's Racing]

Changed the spark plug before testing seems the wire is getting no electricity through it, gonna try what a buddy of mine said and ground the coils together. What size wire or resistance would you wonderful people recommend to ground the coils. Also disconnected the kill switch too see if fault in it is causing no spark and no difference. Really REALLY hoping it's not improper spacing in flywheel or keyway because I was hoping to get a run in before having to rip the whole brand new motor apart

A #14 awg is a great size for making jumper wires. The fine strand silicone wire is extra special for this purpose.

You usually want to use a bare nickel plated steel ring terminal. Strip wire to just pass through the barrel. Then slide a 1" piece of heat shrink tube up the wire and insert in barrel and crimp so tip is just poking through. Then with a very hot soldering iron and solder dipped in flux heat that tip sticking through with a fast tack to terminal trying to prevent the solder from wicking through the barrel. Then slide your heat shrink up and shrink it over your connection.

The gap is probably not the problem. Too little it would be hitting and you should be able to feel, hear and see if it was. You can't hardly jack it up so far away that it won't fire.

Even with a sheared key you will have spark. Of course it won't run because not firing at the correct time but you will still have the spark.

Be aware even with a normal spark it can be difficult to see from these weak ignitions especially in direct sunlight.

These coils I make up juice it up quite a bit,


They wanna end up looking like this. Get them right and they last quite a while. If you don't do a good job they will fail regularly.

 

[Matt Davis]

Can you remove the spark plug boot from the coil wire ? If so, test for spark from the wire directly to ground. I've seen many a botched up plug boot connection cause a no-fire / misfire situation..

It looked like a solid connection, but the wire stabbing through seemed a bit long, I'd say at least 1 /16 " past the base of the wire itself and it wasn't stripped and wrapped along the base of the coil wire itself just a stab through

 

[Matt Davis]

A #14 awg is a great size for making jumper wires. The fine strand silicone wire is extra special for this purpose.

You usually want to use a bare nickel plated steel ring terminal. Strip wire to just pass through the barrel. Then slide a 1" piece of heat shrink tube up the wire and insert in barrel and crimp so tip is just poking through. Then with a very hot soldering iron and solder dipped in flux heat that tip sticking through with a fast tack to terminal trying to prevent the solder from wicking through the barrel. Then slide your heat shrink up and shrink it over your connection.


The gap is probably not the problem. Too little it would be hitting and you should be able to feel, hear and see if it was. You can't hardly jack it up so far away that it won't fire.

Even with a sheared key you will have spark. Of course it won't run because not firing at the correct time but you will still have the spark.

Be aware even with a normal spark it can be difficult to see from these weak ignitions especially in direct sunlight.

These coils I make up juice it up quite a bit,


They wanna end up looking like this. Get them right and they last quite a while. If you don't do a good job they will fail regularly.

I also unhooked the killer bee to see if it was reading anything but perfect to prevent spark and it still didn't spark. Thank you all so much for your experience! Now is that red the positive for the coil and black is grounding wire I'm assuming? Should I just ground them for now with wire you previously stated and check for spark? Also can I check the wire itself with an ohm reader on the cap as well or just ground the plug and check in a dark room for spark?

 

[Daniel's Racing]

Yes red connects source coil to secondary coil. The black is the KILL wire. You can check the coils one to the other to see if the armature of source has almost zero resistance to the bolt on secondary coil the is on side of coil with brass grounding tab.

You can check secondary for OPEN or SHORT. If either one it is defective.

Most anything in between may indicate it is ok.

Best way to test is physically seeing a good heathy spark in the dark.

 

[Wally Duarte]

All this seems like you are just spinning your wheels with NO real direction or concept. I’d put the motor in a box and send it to someone that can diagnose and fix it for you. Just saying

 

[Roxyflash]

Spark coil 2.1K ohms from plug wire to red wire
0.1 ohms red wire to earth core
2.1K ohms spark plug wire to earth core

Source coil
Infinity/185K ohms Coil core-red wire/Coil core-black wire
255K ohms for the other source coil, there are two, don't know for sure which is which, one is red, the other is grey...
Either will work, the red one has 30 degrees spark advance, the grey one is 28 degrees