Nitro Pipes Making A Comeback?

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Here is some useful help with the pipe couplers.

With the MAC 45 pipe just take a coupler for a 21 pipe and use tyrap only on the pipe not the manifolder side and it will last longer.

If you use tyrap on the manifolder it will last alot shorter time.

Anders
 
Chris Attebery said:
There's a point where the motor's making too much heat, the pipe is trapping it in the motor and the cooling system can't keep up, then you have a runaway and the plug pops, motor detonates, etc. Drilling out the stinger was the only way that my motor would run on the pipe and not pop a plug. I spend two years working this out with Andy. If I had stuck to the Nitro pipe I could have avoided it all.
Surely the silencing section has too much backpressure and that's causing the overheating? The silencing section doesn't need to have backpressure to be efficient. Better to play around with that than bore out the stinger. If you are having a runaway situation then you are probably starting off with the pipe length too short.
 
Anders_Martinelle said:
Here is some useful help with the pipe couplers.With the MAC 45 pipe just take a coupler for a 21 pipe and use tyrap only on the pipe not the manifolder side and it will last longer.

If you use tyrap on the manifolder it will last alot shorter time.

Anders
good tip, that's the problem on my 45 coupler. it keeps ripping at the header tie wrap. that 21 coupler will fit over the front of the 45 pipe? heat it up i guess :)

the mac 45 header's tube wall is to thin IMO, it bends and dents real easy. the ID is good, but needs more material for strength. i guess it wouldn't telescope the pipe then though. making the pipes ID a few thousandths larger is easy enough though by reaming. even worse with the 21 header :(

has anyone used teflon tape between the pipe and header? then clamp the pipe with a screwdown type metal clamp, using no coupler tube???
 
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GTR said:
Hi Guys
A couple of comments - you want your boats to be quieter

- Whenever possible shield the intake and flywheel etc to reduce radiated noise

(side benefit improved aerodynamics)
GTR,

How do you do thi or do you have a picture to send me??
 
Use 21 size silicone tubing not teflon..

Telescope the pipe over the manifold and tyrap only on the pipe side.

Simple.

Anders
 
After this weekend of racing here is what I have decided to do. I use small diameter Puracil tubing and I still will eventually blow the coupler. The header pipe is thin wall as mentioned earlier and is a problem. My pipe will not telescope as I need it 10 3/4 from the center of the piston to the high point on the pipe which is longer than the two pieces total. I tried shortening to 10 1/2 but in San Diego with 30 foot diameter turns, I was falling off the pipe. I run a Prather 235 and 45%.

Lenny Blake from Rum Racing Products put together a set up for me today that I like. He has an adapter that goes over the exhaust snout held by a spring around the motor like we currently use. He uses a MAC 67-80 silicone header piece that goes over the exhaust snout for a tight fit with the adapter. Bolted on to the adapter is an air cooled/water cooled header piece. I will have to cut the nitro pipe some to get my same 10 3/4 distance but the diameter of the header and pipe will be the same for the coupler I use.

Now I just have to decide whether I want to pre-heat the water or continue going through the motor first as before.

Al Waters

NAMBA Vice President

NAMBA Scale Unlimited Chairman

Southern California Scale Thunderboat Association
 
Have you guys tried making a water cooled exhaust header or aeromarine makes a watercooled jacket, I use both of them, It sure saves me couplers, in the performance area, have not taken time to evaluate. I run Rumrunners mufflers. I've had trouble running Andys pipe on the 45 & 67 Mack,, switched over to pipes & stingers, now I can get the motors to crank, .45 very old OPS .45 pipe pipe skinny (forgot mod # they are no longer made, 67 Steve Muck 67 pipe, both w Lennys mufflers.

I've also used brass or aluminum thin sheet and use it inside the coupler with good results.

Bill
 
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Tim,

I hope that I am doing this correctly by posting a link. Here you go.

I am using a 12 degree to get the pipe over the radio box in my Muck Sport 40. You can see the rubber adapter that will fit over the exhaust snout. Then the header piece. Then the water cooled/air cooled piece that replaces the thin wall header pipe is bolted on.

http://members.cox.net/namba883/h2osonlinedesign/exhaust.jpg

Al Waters

NAMBA Vice President

NAMBA Scale Unlimited Chairman

Southern California Scale Thunderboat Association
 
Al Waters said:
Tim,I hope that I am doing this correctly by posting a link. Here you go.

I am using a 12 degree to get the pipe over the radio box in my Muck Sport 40. You can see the rubber adapter that will fit over the exhaust snout. Then the header piece. Then the water cooled/air cooled piece that replaces the thin wall header pipe is bolted on.

http://members.cox.net/namba883/h2osonlinedesign/exhaust.jpg

Al Waters

NAMBA Vice President

NAMBA Scale Unlimited Chairman

Southern California Scale Thunderboat Association
One thing you want to consider is the added laod to the exhaust flange on the case. I've seen motors have the flange break off using this type of header. A coupler is a lot less expensive than a case.
 
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