NEW ProBoat Stiletto FE OPC Tunnel

Intlwaters

Help Support Intlwaters:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Thks Darin Buddy appreciate the advice , can you list a few props that are working well on this boat . I see the x440/3 seems to be popular . thks Barry :D
 
HI Guys , after reading a few forums Im NOT sure on what BATTERY SETUP to go for and use . Some say two batteries and some say one battery . im NEW to Electric tunnels and this is my first one.I have always run IC Boats so I really havent a clue what is goin on with 2p , 1s etc etc . Also the manual says use 7.2v or 7.4v one battery and then guys are recommending 14.4v on the threads ???NEED HELP AS I will be racing this baby and need the best reall performance out of the batts etc . thks alot
I would recommend that you replace the Y setup on the stock ESC, and use some 5.5mm contacts on the two battery leads. Then, get a single 5000mah or similiar 4S1P pack, and run the single pack up near the front of the radio box. This setup works great, and it's easier to manage the charging of a single 14.8V pack (4S), vs. two 7.4 (2S) packs. You'll also clean up the battery area by getting rid of all that additional wire.
Darin, I have just received my battery Type LI-PO 5800Mah 4S and reading in the boat manuel it says I have to reprogram the ESC before

I fit a LI-PO battery, how do I go about doing this if I dont have the programming module PRB3311? help.
 
HI Guys , after reading a few forums Im NOT sure on what BATTERY SETUP to go for and use . Some say two batteries and some say one battery . im NEW to Electric tunnels and this is my first one.I have always run IC Boats so I really havent a clue what is goin on with 2p , 1s etc etc . Also the manual says use 7.2v or 7.4v one battery and then guys are recommending 14.4v on the threads ???NEED HELP AS I will be racing this baby and need the best reall performance out of the batts etc . thks alot
I would recommend that you replace the Y setup on the stock ESC, and use some 5.5mm contacts on the two battery leads. Then, get a single 5000mah or similiar 4S1P pack, and run the single pack up near the front of the radio box. This setup works great, and it's easier to manage the charging of a single 14.8V pack (4S), vs. two 7.4 (2S) packs. You'll also clean up the battery area by getting rid of all that additional wire.
Darin, I have just received my battery Type LI-PO 5800Mah 4S and reading in the boat manuel it says I have to reprogram the ESC before

I fit a LI-PO battery, how do I go about doing this if I dont have the programming module PRB3311? help.
I called Pro Boat and they said that the esc is programed for lipos already.

The manuel is not correct according to them.

I'll be trying mine out tomorrow
 
HI Guys , after reading a few forums Im NOT sure on what BATTERY SETUP to go for and use . Some say two batteries and some say one battery . im NEW to Electric tunnels and this is my first one.I have always run IC Boats so I really havent a clue what is goin on with 2p , 1s etc etc . Also the manual says use 7.2v or 7.4v one battery and then guys are recommending 14.4v on the threads ???NEED HELP AS I will be racing this baby and need the best reall performance out of the batts etc . thks alot
I would recommend that you replace the Y setup on the stock ESC, and use some 5.5mm contacts on the two battery leads. Then, get a single 5000mah or similiar 4S1P pack, and run the single pack up near the front of the radio box. This setup works great, and it's easier to manage the charging of a single 14.8V pack (4S), vs. two 7.4 (2S) packs. You'll also clean up the battery area by getting rid of all that additional wire.
Darin, I have just received my battery Type LI-PO 5800Mah 4S and reading in the boat manuel it says I have to reprogram the ESC before

I fit a LI-PO battery, how do I go about doing this if I dont have the programming module PRB3311? help.
I called Pro Boat and they said that the esc is programed for lipos already.

The manuel is not correct according to them.

I'll be trying mine out tomorrow
Thanks Darin please let me know how it went, I wont do anything till you sure the LI-PO battery will be ok and not damage any components.
 
Guys... just so you now... the "programming for lipos" simply sets the cutoff voltage. It's not that important UNLESS you think you are going to run these things to the extent of the batteries. If you keep the runtimes to a reasonable time (3-4 minutes with a 5000+ mah battery pack), there shouldn't be any damage to a qood quality pack.

As a point of reference, with a race setup on the boat (stock motor/ESC, with X645 or similar prop), the boat uses about 2400mah in a 1-mile race, including a mill lap and cool-down lap.
 
I have been thinking about putting together a P-spec outboard for way too long now. I am still a little confused about what exactly makes a legal boat for the IMPBA class...other than 4 cell lipo and "Spec motors" ...UL-1 motor seems to be the most popular choice.

MY question is simply... is this boat legal for the IMPBA class? ...if so, can it be made competitive with the VS-1, TS3 and other boats that are being put together?

I certainly would like to see out club start at least one electric class next year! This boat seams to be a nice starting point at the current price.
 
There are no IMPBA "Spec or Limited" classes on the books yet. There probably will be in the future but for now the rules for Spec classes in the IMPBA are written either by the districts or clubs that run them.

The Spec classes specify the voltage, motor and in some districts the speed controller you can run. Thats it. P-Spec tunnel is kind of the electric version of B-Sport Tunnel. It's meant to be low cost, competetive and fun. If your district does not yet have Spec rules, let us know and we'll be happy to help you compose a set.

The Stiletto is a great performing RTR, but I believe the consensus is doesnt make the best heat racer.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I wasn't sure if there was anything definite yet as far as classes go. I would certainly like to see what rules you have been working with in your district. I'll send you a Pm with my e-mail if you have a PDF handy to send.

At any rate, I went ahead and ordered one...supposedly it will be at the LHS tomorrow. Hopefully I'll get a chance to run it this weekend...maybe against some B-Sport Tunnels...if anyone is testing...
 
I am sure it will be a HOOT! It will definitely be along with whenever I go to the lake. It will be a nice break between testing my nitro boats.

I did pick it up today, spent a lot of time just sizing things up. Over all it's a really nice package...except for that battery cover...

So far the only changes are to get red of that huge prop nut, replace the imitation Prather S215 with a real Prather S&B S215 and enlarged the hole on the dummy engine cover that the wires and cooling lines pass through. I also raised the control arm on the outboard in an attempt to get the control wires off of the battery box lid. This didn't work, so I will try to raise the steering servo a bit. THe control wires are actually rubbing on the fiberglass.

For anyone interested, I bolted an O.S. lower unit to the Stiletto. It seems to fit OK but it will need to have the steering control bar raised a bit and possibly some minor work to the bottom of the transom to allow it to fully turn left or right. This may not be necessary, I'll have to wait and see what height the stock unit needs to be, and how much turn radius is necessary.

Also the O.S. unit (with the Hyper Performance motor adapter) is about 2 ounces lighter than the Pro Boat lower. The cowling is 3 ounces heavier than my TS3 cowling. The entire boat with a pair of heavy hard pack 2S 5000mAh lipos is a good pound heavier than my B-Sport TS3.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Back
Top