New Fire Fighter .12

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the inside dimension where the engine mounts should be 3" if it is not..... something is wrong..... might not have been your error..... let me know.
 
Eric,

Could you send any and all building pic's and any advice on what you might do differently to me at [email protected]

I ordered the ff12 also and I would really like to do it right the first time! I've never built a rigger before.

Thank you
 
Sure Anothony I'll be posting most of the pictures here so it won't be hard for you to get your FF together.

Note that if you are using the Octura 4-30, the engine bay is 1/4 too wide.

You can either cut the tabs of the center bulkhead supports and mount the nose and transom parts outside of the tub sides

or

All you need to do is mount the flywheel cutout plates on the sides where the engine screws go through the side plates. see the photos

Here are the pictures
 
Glue the plate (leave a small gap at top incase you want to install a 1/32 ply shelf for the engine/fuel tank hatch
 
That's the good old Octura 3-30 Engine mount It's compatible with .10 to .21 engines. Just need to trim the mounting ears a little and drill-n-tap (4) 4-40's to hold the egine inplace.

Octura now sells a 3-30 mount that is relieved for pull-start .12 engines and the mount is already drilled-n-tapped for 4-40's. Don't have the part no. for this one.

The mount is 2.3 oz stock I had a friend mill a large square on the bottom. The new weight is 1.5 oz -That's a 35% reduction in weight I can't notice any reduction in the mounts strength. I think that a 50% reduction is possible if you get a little more creative and aggressive with the mill.
 
Assembled tub (minus bottom)

Engine will be a Traxxas TRX 2.5 I will make a bell-crank to be able to use a slide carb on the Fire Fighter
 
Looks good.

Might I sugest some washers under the engine mount bolts that go through the tub sides.

You probably just had it like that for the picture. :D

Peter R.

www.climatemodels.com
 
Wade is using a tuned pipe and header from Associated that he got at Tower Hobbies. I don't know what flywheel that he has though. I'm using the Mac pipe. The O.S. marine flywheel is what I and others use also is from Tower. I do have a flywheel from a Miss Bud that has a squared groove in it that I haven't tried yet. It's lighter and less than half the price of the O.S.. Im also got an ABC Hobbies flywheel that appears to have the V groove next to the carb. Hobby Shops that deal with Horizon can get you the parts and save you the shipping costs.
 
The flywheel in my pic is the OS "gold plated" one. I would really like to find a nice heavy flywheel with a collet. Octura has one in their catalog but no pics...

Fire Fighter news:

Got the sponsons built and with the booms. Tom, I ended up with 11" between the sponsons. This should work out fine -I hope.

Real important questions: :unsure:

Tom which shims are supposed to go under the booms? How deep do I mount the strut? How about them rears where do they go? (front to back and their depth). Sort of wish the instructions brought a setup sheet. Where is the CG located? How deep does the turn go past the bottom of the ride surface?
 
Eric Perez said:
The flywheel in my pic is the OS "gold plated" one. I would really like to find a nice heavy flywheel with a collet. Octura has one in their catalog but no pics...
Fire Fighter news:

Got the sponsons built and with the booms. Tom, I ended up with 11" between the sponsons. This should work out fine -I hope.

Real important questions: :unsure:

Tom which shims are supposed to go under the booms? How deep do I mount the strut? How about them rears where do they go? (front to back and their depth). Sort of wish the instructions brought a setup sheet. Where is the CG located? How deep does the turn go past the bottom of the ride surface?
Eric, I appreciate your instructions feedback. it takes me more time to make them than it does to design the boat beleive it or not. I make the instructions to include everything i think someone would need to build the boat...... but i know how to build it as i designed it..... so it's easy for me not to realize something is missing or could be better.

I will add a setup sheet tonight. I will add more info on sponson width and strut depth also. I will have the instructions on the website for download.

my inside width is 10.5" I wanted it a tiny bit wider in the kit..... mostly because people seem to like them wide. Personally I think wider is not always better...... but 11 should be a real nice number.

Thanks for the feedback Eric,

Tom
 
as promised i put about 4 more hours in on the instructions and added/revised a lot of stuff.

Eric, Please let me know if it answered your questions!

Anthony.... you will want to download this.

Thanks for your feedback!

go to www.firefighterboats.com to download it

tom
 
Tom, While constructing the FF12 I have taken over 100 Photos. I will wrap them up real nice for you so that you may offer them (If You'd like) for download.

Did the MikeP toilet paper epoxy coat last night. Looks fast just sitting still :p

I have even "invented" a new way of squaring up the booms. I will upload when I get home tonight.

Wood colored boats don't show up too well on bouy 4 so it's a pitty that the FF12 logos will not be visible on my boat after it's finished. Too bad there are no FF12 decals :unsure:

Where can I get the exact same boom material that is used for the FF12 (same dimensions too)? I've just come up with a way to solve some of the hardware problems that are plagging the .12 Rigger class...
 
What engine is that? Did you use the long shaft type or the short?

Who are you ordering Octura parts from?

Thanks
 
Eric Perez said:
Engine will be a Traxxas TRX 2.5 I will make a bell-crank to be able to use a slide carb on the Fire Fighter
Eric,

I saw a linkage set up that I think might work well for a slide carb. Instead of push pull from the servo it rotated the controll rod.

Mike
 
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