Microburst Mac 67 - Pics and Questions

[nitrotwin]

OK guys, its here!!! Let me start by saying Fedex delivery sucks. OK, now I feel better.

I have a few questions that will require referring to the pics attached. In the first pic it shows the drive dog and flex shaft installed. Please notice the gap between the drive dog and the flex shaft tube. Should the flex cable be shortened? The face of the shaft tube is worn. Sould this be machined flat?

In the last pic, the fuel adjustment for the carburetor is in line and not on the carburetor like I am used to. Is this standard or re-engineered?

Measurements - 40" from tip to transom and is running a 67 Mac. Fueled by Ritches Brew 50% full synthetic with cmb quiet pipe. What glow plug should I use? McCoy9? The fuel tank pressure hose from the pipe was not used. Shuld this be hooked back up? Sorry for the silly questions coming over from the car side.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[tnrcboatracer]

Glow plug should be MC9 or K&B 1L. Pulling the element slightly may also help.

The drive dog is perfect. The gap is required for cable shrinkage due to wrap up.

It looks like the seller attached the tank vent line to the needle. This engine definitely needs pipe pressure. The standard MAC carb does not come with a needle. All MAC's use a remote needle set up, typically 3rd channel adjustable.

The silver head MACs tended to have a cooling issue that is recified by machining a groove in the head button with a lathe. Fortunately, the new blue heads and buttons will fit, so you can convert. Also, check the drum and Drum housing for the bronze bushing, and ramped drum. Pics of those parts as well as the head button top and bottom will help ID the motor better.

 

[AndyBrown]

OK guys, its here!!! Let me start by saying Fedex delivery sucks. OK, now I feel better.
I have a few questions that will require referring to the pics attached. In the first pic it shows the drive dog and flex shaft installed. Please notice the gap between the drive dog and the flex shaft tube. Should the flex cable be shortened? The face of the shaft tube is worn. Sould this be machined flat?

In the last pic, the fuel adjustment for the carburetor is in line and not on the carburetor like I am used to. Is this standard or re-engineered?

Measurements - 40" from tip to transom and is running a 67 Mac. Fueled by Ritches Brew 50% full synthetic with cmb quiet pipe. What glow plug should I use? McCoy9? The fuel tank pressure hose from the pipe was not used. Shuld this be hooked back up? Sorry for the silly questions coming over from the car side.

Any help would be appreciated.

Drive dog gap looks perfect. The needle set up is good too! Just go run it and let us know how it does and we'll take it from there.

 

[nitrotwin]

OK guys, its here!!! Let me start by saying Fedex delivery sucks. OK, now I feel better.
I have a few questions that will require referring to the pics attached. In the first pic it shows the drive dog and flex shaft installed. Please notice the gap between the drive dog and the flex shaft tube. Should the flex cable be shortened? The face of the shaft tube is worn. Sould this be machined flat?

In the last pic, the fuel adjustment for the carburetor is in line and not on the carburetor like I am used to. Is this standard or re-engineered?

Measurements - 40" from tip to transom and is running a 67 Mac. Fueled by Ritches Brew 50% full synthetic with cmb quiet pipe. What glow plug should I use? McCoy9? The fuel tank pressure hose from the pipe was not used. Shuld this be hooked back up? Sorry for the silly questions coming over from the car side.

Any help would be appreciated.

Drive dog gap looks perfect. The needle set up is good too! Just go run it and let us know how it does and we'll take it from there.

will include pics of head and button and the drum housing tomorrow

thanks alot guys

 

[Myron_Sleeva]

Drive dog gap looks perfect. The needle set up is good too! Just go run it and let us know how it does and we'll take it from there.

Who was this masked man? Or should the question be "who are you and what have you done with Andy Brown?????"

 

[tnrcboatracer]

I should note that there is nothing wrong with the silver head engine, I was just hoping to get a baseline understanding of which engine you have. Almost all of the parts are interchangeable over the various models, and may have been changed/updated by the previous owner.

Good to see you back on here, Andy. Great to hear that the new CNC is making chips. I'm working on getting a desktop CNC for my garage, as well. I must be nuts. Just got out of a couple weeks training on G code and Macro-B. I'd love to see your setup.

 

[Don Ferrette]

Who was this masked man? Or should the question be "who are you and what have you done with Andy Brown?????"

:lol: :lol: :lol:

Nice to see that Andy actually had a moment to step away from the MAZAK & make a post. B)

 

[nitrotwin]

Here are some more pics.

The pic "button" looks a little ragged. No gasket or O-ring in between the water jacket and button. Do I need a new one? The pic "drum" looks to be bushed so am I ok there? On the pic "drum valve" I don't know if it is ramped or not. Please let me know what to look for.

All I see is that I need a new button and possibly a blue head. Thanks for all the information you have provided. Please be patient, I am sure I will have more questions.

 

[Mike Stewart]

Looks like all you need is water. Put it back together and go run it.

I wouldn't adjust anything. It might just be set up perfectly as you

got it.

 

[tnrcboatracer]

The silver MAC head does not use orings. The cooling groove has already been added. How does the chamber side of the head look? Any pitting or detonation?

The drum is not the ramped style. The drum can be made to a ramped style by the addition of a 45 degree delrin plug in the end opposite the crank. The ramped style is a little better because it stuffs the case giving better pumping efficiency as well as directing the air down the through the drum. But this is not required. There are many engines run ning out there without a ramped drum.

Be careful when you reassemble not to lose any of the rod needles. I always keep the engine flywheel down when the drum housing is removed.

As others have said, put it back together, and add water...........

 

[nitrotwin]

Ok,everything is back together, will run next week.Where can you get the ramped bushing,would not want to leave anything undone. Thanks for all the info guys!

 

[AndyBrown]

Ok,everything is back together, will run next week.Where can you get the ramped bushing,would not want to leave anything undone. Thanks for all the info guys!

We are currently out of stock on the ramped drums. No need to worry about it. We run our own MAC 67 with open drum. The difference is hardly noticable.....in fact the top end is a tad bit better with the open drum.

Like they said...Go run it!

Just be sure it is running extremely rich on the beach, otherwise it will be too lean on the water.

Carb opening for idle will need to be about 1/3 open or a little more and it will need to be so rich it almost sounds like it will quit.

Once it's in the water it will clean up and sound good.

 

[nitrotwin]

Thanks for all the info.I will be ordering the blue jacket with oring and a new button.I will have it in the water next week!Andy I appreciate your input.I had to show my mess in the pic maybe I need to shed a car or two.Thanks again

 

[Roxyflash]

Try to stay out of the other guys roostertail if your running with some one your carb is in a bad position for water coming off of the deck.I have seen some people with a clear plexiglass that covers over the carb area.I run cmbs in my microburst the carb is under the deck.

 

[AndyBrown]

I should note that there is nothing wrong with the silver head engine, I was just hoping to get a baseline understanding of which engine you have. Almost all of the parts are interchangeable over the various models, and may have been changed/updated by the previous owner.
Good to see you back on here, Andy. Great to hear that the new CNC is making chips. I'm working on getting a desktop CNC for my garage, as well. I must be nuts. Just got out of a couple weeks training on G code and Macro-B. I'd love to see your setup.

Hey Jon,

This CNC stuff is definately interesting! I know what ya mean about G-code training and such. I've been "in training" for 8 months now......and probably will be for a long time to come.

Before this I had never programed a CNC.....and I jumped off the deep end, head first with this 9-axis machine. Definately a challenge for even seasoned CNC opperater/programers. I am learning fast though! And it's worth the long hard effort.

I am building some parts in one set-up, totally unmaned, that required two different machines and three or more set-ups before.

One of my biggest problems has been working through a bunch of bugs in Mazaks new MATRIX control. They just came out with it at the begining of 2006 and it definated has plenty of "new system issues". Seems like I find a new one every other week. The machine is so complex that it's impossible to just run through all possible scenarios. You just have to find them as you get around to using that part of the system. We've already had 5 software and Ladder upgrades. I'm getting to know ALL of Mazak's Southeast service personel really well! lol

Anyway we are working through it and begining to get some very nice parts of the 9-axis machine.

Good luck with your new project...should be a blast to have a cnc in the garage!

 

[tnrcboatracer]

Wow, 9 axis!!! I heard you got a twin spindle. The more features you can get done in one setup, the more accurate the part. That's my biggest issue, fixture error. I have about 70 individual cells and fixtures on my line, and I'm constantly chasing fixture or axis zero issues.

All of our controls at work are Fanuc. Programming with Macro's can be pretty confusing; so many variables, so little time.......... I plan to limit myself to 4 axis for now.

Glad to hear that you're up and running. If there's anything I can do to help, please don't hesitate to ask.

 

[AndyBrown]

Wow, 9 axis!!! I heard you got a twin spindle. The more features you can get done in one setup, the more accurate the part. That's my biggest issue, fixture error. I have about 70 individual cells and fixtures on my line, and I'm constantly chasing fixture or axis zero issues.
All of our controls at work are Fanuc. Programming with Macro's can be pretty confusing; so many variables, so little time.......... I plan to limit myself to 4 axis for now.

Glad to hear that you're up and running. If there's anything I can do to help, please don't hesitate to ask.

4-axis in the garage is awesome...you know you can do alot with that!

THe Mazatrol system is fairly easy to learn and use and will handle most all of my projects.

I've been learning mastercam and looking at Solidworks' cam system for more complex 3-D machining.

Eliminating fixtures and part accuracy was my main reason for getting the 9-axis machine. I'm building the crankcases complete, in one opp. straight from the bar.

Thanks for the offer on help Jon. You just may get an e-mail question from time to time.

 

[tnrcboatracer]

Straight from the BAR????? Are you making billet crankcases now? No castings? That will be a great improvement! Now I really want to see your shop. We need to pull this discussion off line.