jae 21 g2 build changes ? ( mods )

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been reading the instructions for the JAE and have noticed that there is no mention of the size for the spacer block needed when using a standard strut.

In the pics of the instructions it looks to be a 1/4 in 5ply piece of plywood.

Anyone care to conferm the size of the spacer block and perhaps Joe can add it to his next run of instructions for the kit.

Thanks.
 
thomas, my spacer is 1/4". it (according to the instructions) should be 3/8" to get the zippkits strut at the back of the ski on my build. i set it where i did to match the transom to drive dog distance that kentley porter ran on one of his earlier jae style riggers. not sure if it was a k-zam or a true jae back then...... make the block out of something solid, aluminum or delrin maybe. my plywood block started crushing over time, even when plated with cf.
 
thomas, my spacer is 1/4". it (according to the instructions) should be 3/8" to get the zippkits strut at the back of the ski on my build. i set it where i did to match the transom to drive dog distance that kentley porter ran on one of his earlier jae style riggers. not sure if it was a k-zam or a true jae back then...... make the block out of something solid, aluminum or delrin maybe. my plywood block started crushing over time, even when plated with cf.
Thanks.

Where in the instructions is the measurement shown as I must have gone threw the instructions over a dozen times and keep missing it.
 
No distance given, thomas. just the instructions saying where to place the strut in relation to the ski. strut style & ski placement can vary some. heck, even sanding the ski may change the measurement......i had to notch the bottom sheeting on the ski to get my strut where i wanted it. i just matched the fastest one i could find - kentley's
 
No distance given, thomas. just the instructions saying where to place the strut in relation to the ski. strut style & ski placement can vary some. heck, even sanding the ski may change the measurement......i had to notch the bottom sheeting on the ski to get my strut where i wanted it. i just matched the fastest one i could find - kentley's
Thanks for the info.

This is part of the reason I started the topic to get help from those who have build and run this hull .
 
Well I have been working on my build over the hard water time and have gotten the sponsons done as well the shoe and most of the body.

here are a few pics of where I am at.

drive line.jpg

motor and drive.jpg

Had an issue with a flywheel/ collet combo not being true for shaft install.

Turned down a Picco p5 flywheel to fit on the go motor as with different collets on the original go flywheel unit I had a bad runout.

Unsure if it was the cone or the tapered insert that was out on the go for me.

Will order a replacement for it as the picco's belt grove is a little close to the carb at the moment.

Other than that no other issues thus far on the build so far.

Will be installing the TH and 3RD ch rod bellows before the deck goes on.
 
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I just finished a JAE 21 for next year myself. Here are a few pictures. Ended up being 3.288 pounds ready to run minus fuel. I still need to clear the tub and sponsons, so should come in just a little under 3.5 pounds race ready.

IMG_20130101_123634.jpg


IMG_20130101_123649.jpg


IMG_20130101_123643.jpg


IMG_20130101_114820.jpg


IMG_20130101_114757.jpg
 
Nice build Rodney! So what do we have to do to get you to come up to the Twin Cities for more races next summer?
 
Ian, thanks man! Tim, it sure is. We shall see if it holds up or not. If not, Ill make a carbon version.

Greg, I will try and make it that way for a race or two again this coming year. Just depends on the life schedule.
 
Greg, Its in the garage on the shelf. The one I sent you was the third revision. I built mine, but its going to another buddy of mine. Ive never ran it.
 
Just a few things from when I threw mine together, mostly in the sponson department.

If I had to build another set, I'd do them side-by-side to prevent any warpage during the curing process. Slip a piece of wax paper in between to keep them from getting stuck together, outside to outside. Two cheap ink pens like Bic's or Write Brothers can be run through the sponson tubes to keep them aligned and work great when trying to sand the tips to match.

If you're using the Zippkits collets to hold the sponsons in place, you can put the 2 rear ones inside the tub instead of outside.
 
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