Jae 12 build.

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Guys this little rigger went very well after i found the needle and it was the first time out..fired right up and went well right off the bench.I have a fuel draw issue but that looks like an easy fix :)

I do have a question .It pulled to the right and the TF is razor sharp with a nice taper(not blunt)The only way it would track straight at WOT was considerable left trim dialed in.The rudder is sharpened and fairly thin.

The sponsons are all running straight and true also.

I was wondering what affect if any would the TF location or Attitude would have on the pulling of the boat.

I would like to get the rudder and TF straight so they would not be working against each other.

I did put a spacer between the rear bolt in the TF and the side of the boat and i could dial out some of the left rudder i had in previously but then it was time to go and i was testing 3 other boats.

Thanks
 
tmunn said:
Guys this little rigger went very well after i found the needle and it was the first time out..fired right up and went well right off the bench.I have a fuel draw issue but that looks like an easy fix :)

I do have a question .It pulled to the right and the TF is razor sharp with a nice taper(not blunt)The only way it would track straight at WOT was considerable left trim dialed in.The rudder is sharpened and fairly thin.

The sponsons are all running straight and true also.

I was wondering what affect if any would the TF location or Attitude would have on the pulling of the boat.

I would like to get the rudder and TF straight so they would not be working against each other.

I did put a spacer between the rear bolt in the TF and the side of the boat and i could dial out some of the left rudder i had in previously but then it was time to go and i was testing 3 other boats.

Thanks
Click to expand...
Terry

I had the same problem . In my case i had multiple problems. If your using a zipp fin check the inside surface as mine had a convex shape to it. Made a new fin and made a big differance.
 
tmunn said:
Guys this little rigger went very well after i found the needle and it was the first time out..fired right up and went well right off the bench.I have a fuel draw issue but that looks like an easy fix :)

I do have a question .It pulled to the right and the TF is razor sharp with a nice taper(not blunt)The only way it would track straight at WOT was considerable left trim dialed in.The rudder is sharpened and fairly thin.

The sponsons are all running straight and true also.

I was wondering what affect if any would the TF location or Attitude would have on the pulling of the boat.

I would like to get the rudder and TF straight so they would not be working against each other.

I did put a spacer between the rear bolt in the TF and the side of the boat and i could dial out some of the left rudder i had in previously but then it was time to go and i was testing 3 other boats.

Thanks
Click to expand...
You may want to put in 1/16th-3/32nd toe in on turn fin side sponson.
 
Thanks larry.

Ron Z , I am struggling with turn fin issues on another boat over on the dock sit but that is another story.

I cannot get my mind around why deflecting the turn fin rear to the right(essentialy that is what is happening when you use toe in correct?) would make the boat go to the left.

If you deflect the rudder to the right the boat goes right ..to be honest i cannot figure it out and am looking for some answers and i know your the guy that would know.

is it the opposite of the rudder because one is up front and one at the rear.
 
would anyone using the sullivan 4 oz slant tank be willing to post some pics of your setup and how your dealing with being so close to the header with the brass tubing comming from the tank ??
 
tmunn said:
Thanks larry.

Ron Z , I am struggling with turn fin issues on another boat over on the dock sit but that is another story.

I cannot get my mind around why deflecting the turn fin rear to the right(essentialy that is what is happening when you use toe in correct?) would make the boat go to the left.

If you deflect the rudder to the right the boat goes right ..to be honest i cannot figure it out and am looking for some answers and i know your the guy that would know.

is it the opposite of the rudder because one is up front and one at the rear.
Click to expand...
Yes moving the turn fin with toe in...front goes left, rear goes right...is just like turning the front wheels on you car to turn left...front goes left, rear goes right.

If you drive a rear wheel steering (like the rudder on the rear of our boats) fork lift it is the oppossite...to turn left the (rear wheel) front goes right and the rear goes left.

Hope this helps!

Glenn
 
tmunn said:
Thanks larry.

Ron Z , I am struggling with turn fin issues on another boat over on the dock sit but that is another story.

I cannot get my mind around why deflecting the turn fin rear to the right(essentialy that is what is happening when you use toe in correct?) would make the boat go to the left.

If you deflect the rudder to the right the boat goes right ..to be honest i cannot figure it out and am looking for some answers and i know your the guy that would know.

is it the opposite of the rudder because one is up front and one at the rear.
Click to expand...
Glenn prettty much answered your question. The leading edge of the fin hits the water first and is up front. For a demo of this get in your car ,go 50 or so, hold your hand out the window upright towards the sky, elbow down,baby finger as the leading edge ,and rotate your hand both ways (toe in,then toe out).You will understand it quickly.Your hand will work just like a fin does..
 
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Thanks guys on the turn fin ...now i know.

how is it possible to soften the sullivan regular slant tanks so i can push the corners down a little and have them stay down.

My cowl is hitting the tank a bit up by the front deck and i wanted to lower it a bit and i do not like the flex tanks..

I was thinking if i could heat it a little without ruining it , push it down and let it cool it would keep that shape ??
 
tmunn said:
Thanks guys on the turn fin ...now i know.

how is it possible to soften the sullivan regular slant tanks so i can push the corners down a little and have them stay down.

My cowl is hitting the tank a bit up by the front deck and i wanted to lower it a bit and i do not like the flex tanks..

I was thinking if i could heat it a little without ruining it , push it down and let it cool it would keep that shape ??
Click to expand...
I have a Sullivan(flex tank) in my new kit boat, just heat it with a heat gun(carefully) and use wood or something flat to squeeze it down(don't flaten the vent bubble),let cool. The standard Sullivan tank may take more heating,but has been done before. Did one last night,this am it was still the right size and fit perfectly. If I new how to post pics I would. Hope that helps.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Guys I have the fuel problem solved with a new tank and it is a not as tall as the flex tank i removed so it fits nicely.It runs well now and can find the needle much better and looks promissing.

Now i have some handling questions.Whwn the boat is running on the staights it is fine and tracks well and very little pull left or right however I am in a small pond for now and when you come around and get in your own wake or waves the boat seems to want to hop sideways for lack of a better term ...it looks as though it breaks loose from the water momentarily and then sets back down or in some cases it will rock left to right on the sponsons and blow off all together.

I am using the sipkits rudder that i thinned substantially and i am using the zipkit Turn fin and hane tried it in the middle, rear and was about to try it in the forward holes but ran out of daylight.

could someone help me with setup info i would like to get the 12 raceable before i start on the 21 .
 
who's making the cowl's for these riggers?.. Got mine 3/4 built.. got mine on sat from the toleto show...
 
Get a hold of david preuse on here and he does great work and great prices and the cowls are tough and easy to work with and look awesome.

what more do you want.
 
tmunn said:
Get a hold of david preuse on here and he does great work and great prices and the cowls are tough and easy to work with and look awesome.

what more do you want.
Click to expand...
heres what mine looks so far.. its 3/4 built. heres a pic of me with the zippkit guys.. great guys to talk too..
 
so get one from the zip kit guys then ...they too are good to deal with...

or hey ...here is an idea ....look at the thread were people are asking about cowls for this boat B)
 
misshydro said:
who's making the cowl's for these riggers?.. Got mine 3/4 built.. got mine on sat from the toleto show...
Click to expand...
How much time do you have invested so far in your build???

What motor do you plan to run in your JAE.12G ???
 
Last edited by a moderator:

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