Got me a new Vegas Duce!!

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Camaro,

Can you tell me what it was that you did not like about the engines. It might be good to get this from another modelers view.

Always looking to make a better product!

Was it performance, or maybe a specific aspect/s of the engine?

Grim
 
no problem mike,,,, :) ...remember this is just my honest opinion,, and nothin but opinion... well my first impression is that there is some unnecesary wieght,,,the cooling cap i think is just way over kill and ads a mint to the overall wieght...the case casting seems a little extra beefy around the exhaust outlet and the larger case fins to add.. so there is some more wieght... i understand you can get a standard back plate,,,which is a nice option for sure... so that will cut some down obviously...

my main peave with these engines is the lacking torque,,, they seem to want the smaller props and almost refuse to perform when loaded up... on the other hand i noticed these engines seem to spin the smaller props faster,,,so it almost evens out...now im speaking as in all around use,,, seems dang fine for a hydro,,,,(which they come in),, but slap it in the sv and it seems to have trouble getting to the pipe with a prop my mod aqua just spun the heck out of.... they just seem more prop picky...... im sure the timing numbers are different from the aqua, along with other factors of course, i.e button, head space.... so i would assume this is where the lack of torque occurs.... keep in mind i never tried any different timing configurations,, or different pipes and headers,,, bone stock the way they come in the duece...

im not a fan of the composite carbs,,,dont get me wrong,,, i know they perform just fine,,, im just not a fan,,(personal preference)...

plus sides------- i was impressed with the internals,,, the sleeve,the rod, the crank,and piston,,, super nice machining,,way nicer than the internals of the aqua...

so it boils down to this,,, my dis-likes are...

1) the wieght

2) the lacking torque

3) the composite carb

again,,, these are just my observations and opinions... and hats off to you mike for putting alot of effort where its needed,,(getting people into the hobby with rtr)....im like bill,,seems i have the most fun with the cheap rtr stuff... the rest of the fleet is just white knuckle racing.... :lol:

Alden
 
Ok.. good info..

Best is that you qualified that as your opinion..

Cus to me...

In "testing" the weight is/was a non issue. If one could qualify that the extra weight (say.... Aqua vrs SuperTigre) witch by the way is a difference of 1.4oz on a typical 4 pound boat) dampens the performance that would be good to know. I have not seen this to be an issue. (Proven)

The “Difference” in torque is a setup issue as you know and even if the motor makes good power some just have a hard time propping a boat that way.. You have a valid opinion on that and its well understood.. Thanks. I wish I would have had more time to work on that head button.

Composite carbs got a bad wrap in the past. They have really gotten much better over the last few years. Truth is its really hard to ware out a composite carb.. Overall they just last longer.. Not really an issue with boating but worth noting. To date I have yet to fail the carb on the ST 18.. (fact).

Thanks again and rock and roll the RTR class.

Grim
 
grim,, i am going to open a seperate thread so we could discuss further,,, i dont want to hijack larcor's thread... please check it out mike...

alden
 
As to the conversation about the flex shafts. When you order a shaft from Mike, it also comes with a bearing. I think this combination is what is going to fix the shaft problem with the deuce. Not just sticking a new shaft in a bearing that is too tight. Watch the video...



I have no doubt that the shafts are not on lined up with the couplers. I also have no doubt that the couplers can spin untrue due to the brass collet under the flywheel getting warped.

That said, can you imagine a flex shaft spinning at 25K RPM and then having the bearing lock up on the strut (realize, the bearing will probably be spinning in the strut, not the shaft in the bearing).

This is our second deuce, both had the same problem with the bearing being too tight. Lost the shaft, bearing, and a sharpened and balanced Y535 when the shaft broke on the first one...going to change this all out before I run it on the second one.

Just my 2 cents...

Sean
 
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Boat arrived today, I will post pic's and let everyone see what I do to it prior to running it, couldnt run it anyways, even we have had nice weather for the last week, the pond is still froze over, that should change as long as the 45+ degree weather stay's!!
 
I tore the hull down, I like the way they use more epoxy at the wood rail's now,and the interior is smooth compaired to the older hull's, so I left that alone, tore apart the engine, rinsed it out with wd-40 reassembled, the SV-27 flywheel wont fit unless you machine out the tapered hole larger to fit over the stock brass tapered sleeve, so I checked the ballance of the stock steel one, almost spot on! just a small amount of material taken out from the inside made it good, I installed my octura collet, I turned around the radio box, so the weight of the 5 cell receiver pack was towards the front, I will make a wood box later, 4-40 push rod to the new mini rudder I got from Joe at Zipp Kit's for the JAE 12 rigger, took her outside and tried to fire her up, I had to turn in the main needle 1 full turn it was just was to rich to even fire up! ran a min. or 2 she's quite!! just need to get the SS-6 tank and run quality tubing install the Grim fin and go to the lake!!
 
larcor69 said:
I tore the hull down, I like the way they use more epoxy at the wood rail's now,and the interior is smooth compaired to the older hull's, so I left that alone, tore apart the engine, rinsed it out with wd-40 reassembled, the SV-27 flywheel wont fit unless you machine out the tapered hole larger to fit over the stock brass tapered sleeve, so I checked the ballance of the stock steel one, almost spot on! just a small amount of material taken out from the inside made it good, I installed my octura collet, I turned around the radio box, so the weight of the 5 cell receiver pack was towards the front, I will make a wood box later, 4-40 push rod to the new mini rudder I got from Joe at Zipp Kit's for the JAE 12 rigger, took her outside and tried to fire her up, I had to turn in the main needle 1 full turn it was just was to rich to even fire up! ran a min. or 2 she's quite!! just need to get the SS-6 tank and run quality tubing install the Grim fin and go to the lake!!
Click to expand...
Cant wait to hear how it runs!! :)
 
Picked up my Grandson today, him and I went to a small retention pond, I let him play with my Mini-Thunder, we went through 7 pack's with that thing,,he and I had a Blast!! He's only 4 but had no problem after awhile get that boat running strait and turning it nice and smooth I had a 5 cell a 6 cell and a 7 cell we started off with the 5 cell so it wouldnt be to fast, after that pack, it was all the 6 and 7 cell running it, that thing will move along, prop picks up the rear, and boogies!! I would say 20+ mph,lot's of fun, had the vegas with me but my hands where full with helping him and charging batterys, and getting that boat off the other side bank a few time's, ...lol Having a blast!!
 
larcor69 said:
the SV-27 flywheel wont fit unless you machine out the tapered hole larger to fit over the stock brass tapered sleeve, so I checked the ballance of the stock steel one, almost spot on! just a small amount of material taken out from the inside made it good, I installed my octura collet,
Click to expand...
I don't understand your comment on the SV27 flywheel. You arent supposed to use a taper collet under it. Why would you want to use a taper collet when the flywheel is not made for one?? I checked the fat part of the crank (unthreaded part near the bearing) on the TZ, CVRM, AQ 18, ST 18, and GO engine, they are all about .275 within a couple thousands of an inch. I had to take a little of the apron on the flywheel for it to fit a GO engine, but other than that, it should fit on all the engines. I do recommend balancing it (or at least checking the balance on it and fixing it if needed).

Sean
 
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Sean, like all flywheel's theres a tapered split brass collar over the crank shaft's shoulder where the flywheel will bind against when tighened down, the crank shoulder size is larger than that of the O.S. made auqa engine, I could use the SV27 wheel if I had a really thin split tapered crank collet but can not use the stock one that comes with the stock TT engine, the SV27 flywheel is almost the same size as the crank shoulder but just spin's freely when placed upon the shaft with out a tapered collar!! :eek:
 
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larcor69 said:
Sean, like all flywheel's theres a tapered split brass collar over the crank shaft's shoulder where the flywheel will bind against when tighened down,
Click to expand...
Not on with the SV flywheel...no taper collet is needed or used...

larcor69 said:
the SV27 flywheel is almost the same size as the crank shoulder but just spin's freely when placed upon the shaft with out a tapered collar!! :eek:
Click to expand...
It is pretty much the EXACT same size as the crank shoulder. It needs to be because it does not use a taper collet.

It won't spin freely with a properly tightned down flex shaft collet on it. I use this flywheel on my belt start CVRM with no taper collet. I use it on my GO engine, with no collet. I have one sitting on the ST engine on my desk right now, and it seems to fit properly to me...

Maybe you are using the short octura flex collet instead of the long one??? Though the short one seems to work on my ST here...

Sean
 
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what size are the threads on the crank so i know which octura collet to order. i have one on the way that i plan on running stock
 
Hi, do you guys have the part numbers for the SV27 flywheel as well as the Octura Collect that you're using? I was also wondering if you guys are leaving the stock Nylon / Teflon insert in the stuffing tube or are you removing it from the stuffing tube to prevent shaft binding issues? I recently purchased the Vegas Deuce as well and will be running it in a stock class. Any and all tips would certainly be appreciated as I have been running gas boats for awhile now and this is my first nitro boat that I have run in many years. What brand of nitro and percentage do you recommend for this boat?
 
octura part number ocfh5mm15....sv flywheel you can find at towerhobbies.com,,, the aluminum color one......

alden
 

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