GAAAH! First becnh test. What should I keep in mind??

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Finne

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 14, 2003
Messages
119
Well, the topic sortof says it all.

I finaly have everything I need to make my first bench test run with my engine.

I've never had any gas engines before, so I'm not realy sure what I should do.

The previous owner has broken in the engine, but it has been laying "dead" for about a year. Should I reset the needles or keep them as is?

Should i give it a round of after run oil before I run it?

I've constructed a simple "prop in a bottle" thing to put some load on the engine.

Air filter? Most boats I've seen are without any air filter at all. but the manual says I should use one???

....getting so close now. once I get my strudder I'm only missing the flex and prop =)
 
If it were me, I would take the motor down and check the bearings and seals and wear FIRST.

I have dealt with PREOwned engines and to save the BS tear it down, new seals and orings and gaskets where needed. will save alot of headachs at the pond.

and if not, I would lube it up good with ATF and just spin it over a few times a day for a couple days, REPLACE FUEL LINES, CHEEP FIX and INS at pond for air leaks. Make sure carb needle is clean and clear.

reset needles to the rich side, and I would run the first tank in as your breaking it in. and I wouldnt REV IT UP MUCH. And make sure you dont get it to hot on the bench.

once done and tested, keep it rich and let it go in the water and take the needle in from there.

Just my.02 worth.

GOOD Luck with it
 
Hey Finne,

You really don't need an air filter but maybe a deflector to keep the water out.

This may be a dumb question but what is a "prop in a bottle"?

Don
 
he he.

It means I've connected the engine to a propeller that is inside a bottle with water.

It will proly splash around quite a bit if I rev it up, but it puts load on the engine so I don't overheat it.

I've replaced the fuel lines and the exhaust seal.

But shouldn't there be a seal between the cylinder and the top?

haven't opened the lower compartment (not sure how to) but the bearings feel good and it's got some strong compression.
 
Yeah,

if possible take it apart look for any oil buil up, clean the bearings, check for metal flashings that need to be removed. Re lube it, start it but don't over rev it. I've always been a firm believer that bench testing is always done better at the lake so you can run it.

If you don't get enough water to the head to cool it than take your garden hose, fuel tubing and duck tape. Connect the fuel tubing to the water nipple and wrap the other end in the garden hose and wrap that w/duck tape. Turn the water on slowly and now you have water cooling.
 
he he.

It means I've connected the engine to a propeller that is inside a bottle with water.

It will proly splash around quite a bit if I rev it up, but it puts load on the engine so I don't overheat it.
Dude you gonna wish you didnt try it, trust me. what I use is a engine mount test stand that I can clamp to a table or the tailgate on my truck. then get a 2 liter soda bottle filled with water and make a fitting coming out of the bottom of the bottle. attach some tubing from the fitting to the cooling head on the engine and let the water flow through it slowly. that will keep it cool. you will have to pu the bottle up higher than the engine and let gravity do its job. if you want to load the engine put an airplane prop on the engine, this will also help with keeping it cool. '

I once cut a 50 gallon drum in half from top to bottom and layed half of it flat, filled with water, and dropped my running tunnel hull in it to break in the engine. Of course I had no idea of what to expect, as this was the first nitro powered boat id seen run. needles to say.....IT GOT REAL UGLY IN A HURRY!!!!!

just a suggestion~ James
 
:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: Yea i think we have ALL tried to bench test the boats with the prop in water.

IT DOES GET UGLY like top fuel said.

Best to set it rich and take it to the pond to run, Plus you DO NOT want to REV IT UP TO MUCH without a LOAD, Running it rich on the bench at idle it will not OVER HEAT.

OOOOOOOOO and take a fishing reel and tennis ball on it. LOL Your going to need it.
 
here is how I did my bench run for the miss bud. I work at a mercury marine dealership. Mercury makes a flushing adapter for the jet-drive outboards. It is made of brass and screws onto the end of a garden hose. And also the hole where it screws ito the outboard is just the right size for glow fuel tubing. I put about a foot of tubing on there and placed it on the cooling head with another piece of tubing holding it on so that it didn't blow off. Adjust the water flow and let her rip. ;D Hope this helps.
 
Guess it was lucky I mentioned that bottle thing.

Ok. change of plans then. I'm just going to test run it at idle.

I don't have any airplane props, so it'll be without load.

I realy only want to check that it runs at all. It looks all new, so I'd be very surprised if it was worn out or anything.

How do I get to the bearings?
 
this is incredible. ;D

I still haven't managed to test run the engine. Bought it from some US guy on e-bay, so the charger for the glowplug lighter is american. Can't seem to find an adapter for the **** thing. :)

I was just wondering something. this charger thing. for how long should the charger be in the lighter?
 
Finne ; You said earlier " I've never had any gas engines before " What are you doing with a glowplug then ???

Or is it a nitro-engine :p ?

I'll send you a pm about the connectionlead.
 
The lighter thing you are talking about is a glow plug ignitor and the other unit is called a charger. Charge it overnight or a few hours for short use.

You should try another "new" glow plug if it still doesn't work when you put the ignitor on it. I've had plugs look brand new but the element breaks low down inside so it won't work. Maybe the new plug is all that's wrong?
 
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