Fuel for OPS .21 3.5cc

[Jim Zelazny jr]

Since the end that goes to crank is more narrow than the old and the top is wider,may have to be careful and only remove from one side so it does not travel around too far off the crank pin ? Not sure sure how that end is supposed to ride on the crank pin.I need to look at this carefully.

 

[Terry Keeley]

File will be fine, the top of the rod should be symmetrical so try to take the same off each side. If the bottom clears don't worry about it, it won't grow enough to matter.

When you assemble it without the back plate just make sure the rod will float forward and aft a little so it's free. The back plate acts as a stop.

 

[Jim Zelazny jr]

I will see about that using a file and think I have one really fine for this,but just found this place and only 2 miles from my house.
http://www.omegacon.com/
My area has machine shops all over the place. I will call them just for fun to see what they say.Good for future anyhow.

 

[Jim Zelazny jr]

I just said to myself...JUST DO IT !!!!!
So took a file and went to it. Good with tools but not familiar with how forgiving or NOT forgiving these engines are.Once I ran the file across the rod,realized this metal is not very hard and was easy to manipulate.So after narrowing the wrist pin end and fitting it, tested how the crank clearances were looking.I still did not like how so very close it comes.I even think it scraped a bit...so with confidence,filed the crank end.It is good that the rod itself was much more beefy and tapered which allowed me to file without making gouges or cuts into anything making for weak spots.I will be honest...it actually looks better than the original after 500 grit smoothing.I think it will be ok .New on left side.

 

[Terry Keeley]

That's great, no need to over-complicate this!

 

[CarlHansen]

Andy Brown is the new OPS agent for USA

 

[Geraghty]

That's great, no need to over-complicate this!

Terry is right....This isn't rocket science....When you re-assemble I place a drop of castor on the crank pin for the initial startup of the motor...Usually a small bottle of castor oil is available at your local pharmacy for about $1.00....
One skill , however ,you should acquire is setting the head clearance....This is very important to the motors survival...
This skill is not difficult .....I would be more than happy to guide you through it ..... PM me a phone number and we will go through it....my keyboarding skills are horrible....so explanations and questions are best handled with a verbal exchange....

 

[Jim Zelazny jr]

I have dropped Andy Brown a note I think twice,one by email and another through FB. Must be busy for holiday.Sent a bunch of emails to people suggested in these forums but no one replied yet.
My knowledge of these engines are not good at all,just going by common sense of motors in general.
Not much to these but with such high RPM,seems one error would spell disaster,but the new rod looks good to run.Been using small amounts of Hoppes 9 oil which I use for firearms...not tons but enough to assemble.Description of the oils purpose seems to be fitting.
The head when removed had NO head gasket,neither does my KB .45. Some have told me not to use the gasket since I am only using 15% and not pushing the limits. Today,the gasket for the crank cover plate should be here and I can begin to assemble exactly same way I took it apart. Been a rough week at the computer searching all this stuff out.Soon as I wake up this morning...will organize the work table and think things through.I will like to know more about this head clearance stuff you mention so will contact you sometime today I hope.Thanks to all in this group so far in helping me out.This older setup deserves a new life and I am one of those people who like to resurrect older stuff anyhow.To me,makes it half the fun.
Jim

 

[Jim Zelazny jr]

So now waiting for gasket and if it comes today...going to go forward.
Not sure if I mentioned I have repaired the carb issue with the groove wear with JB weld.Worked like magic.Filed it with high grit nice and smooth and fits fair to snug into port now.The set screw/bolt works like it should and have already place small amount of RTV sealant as well.So much better now.Installed the piston sleeve after a good clean up and some oil in and out.It slipped over the piston pretty nicely and seated down perfectly.I see a notch in the top of the sleeve but no pin or anything for it to lock into like I have seen on other engines.So was sure to line up the exhaust port perfectly.Placed the head and the water cooling top on and there were no indicators or right or wrong orientation for those.Tightened all 4 head bolts but not like a crazy person.With glow plug removed of course,able to turn the crank with my fingers while observing the con rod clearances.I feel nothing unusual and hear nothing unusual as it turns very nicely.The oil is doing its job and can hear suction.All appears to be good to me and very much feels better than before I started this operation.New bearings and rod was the best choice here to replace.Glad I took the advice from you guys !! I do not think a head gasket or shims are needed unless I was looking for particular performance ? Hoping to fuel up and start it up later today if gasket arrives.I would like to return this back into the boat and get the show on the road.I still need to find a 12v battery I can bring to test run site for my starter.I have a lot of those Lithium packs from my electronics hobby and may try a spare lap top battery pack that is just under 12v but lots of amperage ? Last thing I want is to lug a marine battery around. Also have a brand new FOX glow plug with idle bar ready to mount.

 

[Jim Zelazny jr]

Got her altogether and running. Sounds great...just took awhile to get that oil worked out and fuel in.
I had to quit,90F out there and too unbearable to sit out there right now.
Will try when the sun drops lower...good gosh.
Jim

 

[Terry Keeley]

Nice job! You don't need the head gasket for performance but mainly to be sure the head seals. It might run fine without it tho.

A 4S pack works great for you starter.

 

[Jim Zelazny jr]

I will order a head gasket,hope it does not take a month to find.
I still have no clue where to get ANYTHING for this thing. Sort of aggravated.
It is 101 degrees out there now,had it running great but had hard time tuning it to run consistently.
It almost seemed a radio signal was interfering as it would idle...then throttle up by itself and down again.
I watched the servo doing this.Nothing is loose so was radio related.I think this fuel SUCKS too.
Both the K&B .45 that is like new will not run worth a crap and this OPS also acting the same. Both are an oily mess and think I need a better fuel.20 years ago I bought a gallon of fuel and my engines ran like tops.
So...gasket...where to begin.I already extinguished every name,company and supplier mentioned on several forums...none either replied or have what I need.
One more note...the new glow plug does not work either,had to use the 30 year old plug
Jim

 

[Jim Zelazny jr]

Was out looking it all over and see the carb was loose...I may have to get a new pin or something if it does not tighten up more.That is what was happening with throttling earlier,it was twisting from vibration and tugging on linkage.Also see the cooling head has some water leakage,I need to seal that and find a head gasket somewhere.Almost thinking I should have just bought a new engine but the plan was to spend the least amount of money.I should have known better.
The new glow plug is a FOX and says 2 volt...what ? Since when do they have 2 volts plugs,most were 1.2 or 1.5 last I knew.No wonder it does not work using a 1.2v battery.But then again...rated for 2v because I never heard of a 2v battery before.Either way...it does not work.
Gosh...had patience now it is slowly dwindling away.
I am gonna RTV this thing up,run it to death on the water and call it a day

 

[Jim Zelazny jr]

Well,the JB weld did not work out well.Looks the area filled in fell off...hope not into the engine.
Just sent a note to the Perry carb guy...will order a new body asap and get this going once and for all.
Sick of goofing around

 

[Terry Keeley]

Again you should just measure the size of the carb body that fits into the motor and get a used one with alum. body. Someone might even send you one gratis.

Measure the bore and find another 3.5 motor the same or close and get one of their head gaskets. Again, if you post it someone will probably send you one free.

You want a hot plug with no idle bar, K&B 1L, McCoy 59, O'Donnell 77/277 etc. That will help with the idle and will run better overall.

That fuel is fine to get you going.

 

[Jim Zelazny jr]

One thing after another with this thing...but I expected it.
The original plug had idle bar,so basically copied this.The local hobby shop should have found me a gasket that would work...I am sure they had them there to try out while I was already there.Now back online searching.I can get a new Perry body for 20 bucks or find another used with metal body.I do not like plastic to be honest,especially on something like this so critical.I think the carb is all that is stopping me right now from a running boat.

 

[Jim Zelazny jr]

What is most frustrating is looking for parts for this.I see lots of stuff for sale,but none of them tell me details about the items...they say Carb for RC engine...which is pretty broad.Or carb for OPS engine...also broad.As for head gasket,I will look at the original parts listing and see if there are details of thickness and size needed...somehow I doubt it.Like a guessing game with this thing. I have no idea what carb I can buy that will work on this engine or what gasket let alone how they are measured.I knew I would have to sink money into this...but I am past having to reach into my wallet...what is hardest is reaching into my wallet and not knowing or finding what I am WANTING to buy Not looking for free,just want parts before the snow flies .This carb has a 12mm OD opening on the engine end which is 0.472441 " .Perry carb site tells me it is a 1050 - 1601 model ? But the chart on that website is strange...inlet and outlet of carbs to me look the same size or little difference...that chart shows radical differences.Are they using INCHES ? More guessing here

 

[Jim Zelazny jr]

For the record...this is exactly the same engine I have -
https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/ops-5cc-inboard-marine-engine-293556132

 

[Jim Zelazny jr]

Here are carbs OPS has listed for this engine.And no details for head gasket...not even an image on the part list #341.

 

[Jim Zelazny jr]

Carb fix had failed using epoxies and other 2 part materials so took it to a more radical level.
Looking through my pipe fittings...etc,I see this pneumatic tool connector and it is exactly the same OD.
Had to trim and file it so it was not too long and even chopped the carb port about half way where the grooves were.The fitting threaded onto the carb port tight and used thread sealant.It fits perfectly onto the engine port like it was designed to be there.Will it work...who knows