Not sure if I'd use the Ace hardware stuff. May be poor quality?? microfasteners.com sells ss screws in 300 series stainless or 13-8 stainless steel . I use the 13-8 perhaps Jon will chime in on the proper alloy. Rick is right about the tef-gel- it was made for marine applications.
Even if your torque wrench starts @ 20 in-lbs it will only give accurate readings in the upper 80% of it's range. I may still have a very old chart with size/torque on it-if I find it I'll post it- 6-32??????????
Sooo your wrench that starts @ 20 in/lb would not be accurate in the lower 20% of it's range. I prefer Mr. Foleys method and depend on a small dab of blue loctite(liquid or gel) to keep the screws secure. If the screws go thru water- like some of the CMB Rs motors I would use the Tef-gel like Mr. Bellenger recomended. I opened up a 101 Rs after one season and the corrosion was extreme to the point of blocking water flow. Don't think the Hydro racing motors have the screws going thru water like the Rs versions but may be wrong.According to the chart that came with my in-lb torque screwdriver, 17-21 in-lb for 6-32 threads.
I have used the 21 in-lb setting for yrs. with no stripping .
Don
Bought mine off E-Bay for $30, just need to watch the sales.
I always flush my cooling through the engine water jacket backwards through the rudder after each running day with D-40, no issues withSooo your wrench that starts @ 20 in/lb would not be accurate in the lower 20% of it's range. I prefer Mr. Foleys method and depend on a small dab of blue loctite(liquid or gel) to keep the screws secure. If the screws go thru water- like some of the CMB Rs motors I would use the Tef-gel like Mr. Bellenger recomended. I opened up a 101 Rs after one season and the corrosion was extreme to the point of blocking water flow. Don't think the Hydro racing motors have the screws going thru water like the Rs versions but may be wrong.According to the chart that came with my in-lb torque screwdriver, 17-21 in-lb for 6-32 threads.
I have used the 21 in-lb setting for yrs. with no stripping .
Don
I always flush my cooling through the engine water jacket backwards through the rudder after each running day with D-40, no issues withSooo your wrench that starts @ 20 in/lb would not be accurate in the lower 20% of it's range. I prefer Mr. Foleys method and depend on a small dab of blue loctite(liquid or gel) to keep the screws secure. If the screws go thru water- like some of the CMB Rs motors I would use the Tef-gel like Mr. Bellenger recomended. I opened up a 101 Rs after one season and the corrosion was extreme to the point of blocking water flow. Don't think the Hydro racing motors have the screws going thru water like the Rs versions but may be wrong.According to the chart that came with my in-lb torque screwdriver, 17-21 in-lb for 6-32 threads.
I have used the 21 in-lb setting for yrs. with no stripping .
Don
corrosion that way.
Mark, I started doing the same thing after seeing the crud in the 1.01.I always flush my cooling through the engine water jacket backwards through the rudder after each running day with D-40, no issues withSooo your wrench that starts @ 20 in/lb would not be accurate in the lower 20% of it's range. I prefer Mr. Foleys method and depend on a small dab of blue loctite(liquid or gel) to keep the screws secure. If the screws go thru water- like some of the CMB Rs motors I would use the Tef-gel like Mr. Bellenger recomended. I opened up a 101 Rs after one season and the corrosion was extreme to the point of blocking water flow. Don't think the Hydro racing motors have the screws going thru water like the Rs versions but may be wrong.According to the chart that came with my in-lb torque screwdriver, 17-21 in-lb for 6-32 threads.
I have used the 21 in-lb setting for yrs. with no stripping .
Don
corrosion that way.
