Head bolt sizes For CMB

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K F Wheeler

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Apr 14, 2021
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407
Thinking about changing my head bolts in my 21 Beta "Evo" and my 45 RS "Evo" over to stainless steel...
I know they're metric. But, what size???
Thanks in advance.

Ken
 
You really don’t want to do that! The reason is that stainless steel will stretch and lose its torque setting. Retorque a few times and they will break! JMO
 
M3x16 for the 45. I switched over to stainless and made the policy of binning the screws every time I change them, for the reason mentioned by Don. They’re so cheap for a big pack that you may as well
 
Thanks, Guys. Much appreciated!!
What's everybody's opinion on using some sort of ani-seeze???

Ken
Yes....use anti-seize...sparingly.

No, on the dielectric for that app....use that on all your electrical connections -ie- servos, Rx, etc.

To prevent corrosion on the head screws, simply buy a gallon of WD-40, some MonoJect hobby syringes, and pump a syringe full of the WD through your boats cooling system after a day at the pond.

Regarding stainless screws, for the most part, Don is correct....however, stainless fasteners are available in alloys that have a higher tensile modulus that'll not fail under normal torque specs. Cost becomes the factor.

Ken, the screws you seek can be found at a better Ace Hdwr. in the Hillman fastener drawers- HSS black oxide coated 3mm.
 
Uummm... Stu doesn't recommend WD-40 in the cooling jacket. Simply because it tends to not be kind to a rubber O-ring that's in the cooling jacket. Says he uses alcohol to flush the jacket. My concern is the obvious one of corrosion of the head screws. My idea of die-lectric grease used as an anti-seize in this case is because I use it on all my electrical connections. So it's already in my tool box. The die-lectric grease I would use on non stainless. Me wanting to do the least work on the engine with all my usual long after run procedure... Want to not add another new element, alcohol, to my support manasury. A second thought would be to replace the WD-40 I've used for years followed by trans fluid to flush the engine. Use alcohol. Then. trans fluid. I can tell you it would be a hard change for me to do. I've never had any problems with my system. I have an engine that's been sitting for 20+ years that the bearings still feel like new. Of course, for the cooling jacket I would just flush with the alcohol.
I know this very subject was beat up a while back. I'm trying a different spin. But, I don't think the horse is quite dead yet...
 
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Uummm... Stu doesn't recommend WD-40 in the cooling jacket. Simply because it tends to not be kind to a rubber O-ring that's in the cooling jacket. Says he uses alcohol to flush the jacket. My concern is the obvious one of corrosion of the head screws. My idea of die-lectric grease used as an anti-seize in this case is because I use it on all my electrical connections. So it's already in my tool box. The die-lectric grease I would use on non stainless. Me wanting to do the least work on the engine with all my usual long after run procedure... Want to not add another new element, alcohol, to my support manasury. A second thought would be to replace the WD-40 I've used for years followed by trans fluid to flush the engine. Use alcohol. Then. trans fluid. I can tell you it would be a hard change for me to do. I've never had any problems with my system. I have an engine that's been sitting for 20+ years that the bearings still feel like new. Of course, for the cooling jacket I would just flush with the alcohol.
I know this very subject was beat up a while back. I'm trying a different spin. But, I don't think the horse is quite dead yet...
WD-40 isn't the best thing for o-rings, true.....yet I've never had an issue. Isopropyl alcohol would be a friendlier choice.

WD-40 has always been used to flush engines after running, until the silicone ramps started appearing in rotors. WD-40 is a no-no with the Novarossi's with silicone ramped rotors.

Don't think you'll harm anything using dielectric grease on the cap screws.
I'm sure there are plenty of options out there. Boeshield T-9 is an excellent option, along with being a good engine flush. Available at Ace Hardware in 2 different size aerosols.

https://boeshield.com/general-use/
 
Uummm... Stu doesn't recommend WD-40 in the cooling jacket. Simply because it tends to not be kind to a rubber O-ring that's in the cooling jacket. Says he uses alcohol to flush the jacket. My concern is the obvious one of corrosion of the head screws. My idea of die-lectric grease used as an anti-seize in this case is because I use it on all my electrical connections. So it's already in my tool box. The die-lectric grease I would use on non stainless. Me wanting to do the least work on the engine with all my usual long after run procedure... Want to not add another new element, alcohol, to my support manasury. A second thought would be to replace the WD-40 I've used for years followed by trans fluid to flush the engine. Use alcohol. Then. trans fluid. I can tell you it would be a hard change for me to do. I've never had any problems with my system. I have an engine that's been sitting for 20+ years that the bearings still feel like new. Of course, for the cooling jacket I would just flush with the alcohol.
I know this very subject was beat up a while back. I'm trying a different spin. But, I don't think the horse is quite dead yet...

The beauty of the Boeshield T-9 is that it's o-ring friendly, if sprayed into water outlet in cooling cap it will penetrate and protect threads, and leave a protective film on screws.

It's available in 4 oz. drip bottle and gallons, too. I wouldn't mind going in on a gallon with someone....it's expensive at $117/gal., but IMO, well worth it.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/boeshield.php
 
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