clamping suggestions for coupler material.

Intlwaters

Help Support Intlwaters:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

tmunn

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2006
Messages
1,560
What is a good way to keep the exhaust coupler from moving on the header and or pipe.The ring on the cooper wood pipe seems to work fine with zip tie behind the ring and around the coupler but what it is a little loose at the header and i use the good correct size I think coupler from Tim .

The coupler wants to slide a little and changing my pipe length.The header only has about 1/2" of straight section before it bends and heads toward the exh. port.

I was thinking a hose clamp .The type without all the holes all the way around so it would not cut the coupler.

I am going to try double zip tying that area but still looking for something better.

Ideas
 
hey terry,, i have used a couple different methods of holding the coupler so it doesnt slide...

if you have access to an engraver,,the ones with a fine point and vibrate like heck.... you can dimple the crap out of the end of the header all the way around..

another ive used is ringing the header,,2 or 3 grooves around the end of the header,,you can do this with a flat or triangle file.. flat is better i think..hold the flat file at an angle so the groove your cutting slants toward the end of the header....

The last method ive used is i have a tapered hardened center hold for my lathe...hold the taper tight against the opening of the header,,,and whack the hell out of it...it will flare the end out...

all methods ive used i still use good zip ties and draw them tight with pliers...every last click counts on them ties...lol....the first two methods work the same,,,when the coupler is squished up it will mush into the rings or dimples holding the coupler from sliding...

last method obviously works the same way as the ring on the s pipe..it cant slide past a certain point...

hope this helps ya buddy..

alden
 
oh you could ring it with that handy dandy dremel too....... dimple it also for that matter,,,but the dimpling works better with the engraver,,as it mushes the metal and creates sharper highs than grinding the dimples in....
 
Good support at the stinger helps. Once the header heats up a few times it should start to stick. The N/R header also is very smooth.

I use the same what I gave you on mine as well.

Tim
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Knurl a section on the header or pipe that is 1/8" or more from the end. The smooth end will seal and the knurled part will hold the coupler. You can also use pure teflon tubing and it will not slip. Heat with a torch and slip it on and you have a lifetime coupler.
 
What is a good way to keep the exhaust coupler from moving on the header and or pipe.The ring on the cooper wood pipe seems to work fine with zip tie behind the ring and around the coupler but what it is a little loose at the header and i use the good correct size I think coupler from Tim .

The coupler wants to slide a little and changing my pipe length.The header only has about 1/2" of straight section before it bends and heads toward the exh. port.

I was thinking a hose clamp .The type without all the holes all the way around so it would not cut the coupler.

I am going to try double zip tying that area but still looking for something better.

Ideas
A Friend in UT has a "ZIP GUN" It's a special tool for tightining zip ties and works better than pliers never found out where he bought it-maybe Lowes or home Depot????
 
What is a good way to keep the exhaust coupler from moving on the header and or pipe.The ring on the cooper wood pipe seems to work fine with zip tie behind the ring and around the coupler but what it is a little loose at the header and i use the good correct size I think coupler from Tim .

The coupler wants to slide a little and changing my pipe length.The header only has about 1/2" of straight section before it bends and heads toward the exh. port.

I was thinking a hose clamp .The type without all the holes all the way around so it would not cut the coupler.

I am going to try double zip tying that area but still looking for something better.

Ideas
A Friend in UT has a "ZIP GUN" It's a special tool for tightining zip ties and works better than pliers never found out where he bought it-maybe Lowes or home Depot????
The Zip tie guns are made by Thomas & Betts. i HAVE HAD ON FOR YEARS, AND THEY DO TIGHTEN THE TIE BETTER THAN PLIERS,but I don't remember where I got the gun. another Sr. problem??

Walt Barney
 
terry, find some zip ties that have the "latch" part made out of metal. not the kind that are all nylon. i'm talking about the little tab in the female end that locks into the grooves on the male section/the end you loop around whatever & feed thru the locking section. they can be drawn up MUCH tighter & seem to hold better. if you can't find the zip gun that glenn mentions, use a pair of needle nose pliers (big ones) with good teeth in the jaws. hold them sideways, grab the tag end & roll them against the female section to pull the zip tie up TIGHT. works a lot better than just pulling on it B) . i've seen the type of tool glenn mentions, but i have also seen some cheapo versions that wouldn't pull a greased string out of a duck's butt.........what alden says about dimpling/grooving/roughing up the header will help a lot, too. as will a SOLID mounting system. but, imho, a QUALITY zip tie with a metal lock tab is the biggest single thing that will help the most.
 
walt posted the tool maker's name while i was typing my reply. the cheapies i saw, the manufacturer's were too ashamed to put a name on them - except china or tiawan........
 
the only quality zip tie guns ive seen came from pratt and whitney,,which is actually only 25 min. from my house...terry if you went to cabelas that day you left you were on pratts property...ive had several,,never fails they always get taken..lol....after a cerrain amount of time in service all tools are discarded for quality control...so i happened to come across a couple...

the other option with the ties is you could tighten them as much as possible,,,then pull them off the pipe coupler and click them a couple more times,,reinstall and jam the pipe and header back in there...my jae .12 has no pipe mount,,just hangs by the coupler.. flops around a little but ive never ever once had it slip...robin has a good point on the stainless zip ties too....you can get them at any car speed shop,,,summit,,jegs,,,any place like that,,,they are used mainly for holding header wrap,,killer ties for sure...the ones with just the metal clip in the housing are awsome too...

ac
 
alden (& terry), i wasn't meaning stainless tie wraps, rather the nylon ones with just the metal locking tab. i think you need the stretch/give of a nylon one to get a good clamping action.
 
i stoped my outboard pipes from moving by simply jb welding a 1/8 '' band of aluminum strip at the end of the header and one strip at the end of the pipe....be sure to sand the ends with rough sandpaper to give it some tooth to bond to...i clamp the aluminum strips in place with a small radiator hose clamp while the jb weld hardens....i also place both ends near a large light bulb for heat to help speed up the hardening process...PS i use a discarded old aluminum folding chair for my aluminum strips....bob
 
Lots of good ideas guys thanks.Bob.you just rang a bell as I used JB weld on some water ks brass tubing I was slipping water lines on over.and they never came off again.

Could you not just jb weld an aluminum ring on over the header say 1/8" from the end ??

I see no reason why I could not use a JB weld "BARB" on the aluminum header and then the coupler and zip tie or some of the other methods.

Will the JB weld withstand the heat.

If i gave it to the right person they Could mig a bead all the way around it also instead of JB weld.

I have very good support at the stinger .It is just trying to slide off the header.

I will fix it this week
 
Lots of good ideas guys thanks.Bob.you just rang a bell as I used JB weld on some water ks brass tubing I was slipping water lines on over.and they never came off again.

Could you not just jb weld an aluminum ring on over the header say 1/8" from the end ??

I see no reason why I could not use a JB weld "BARB" on the aluminum header and then the coupler and zip tie or some of the other methods.

Will the JB weld withstand the heat.

If i gave it to the right person they Could mig a bead all the way around it also instead of JB weld.

I have very good support at the stinger .It is just trying to slide off the header.

I will fix it this week

Tig would be the method and yes ...I can

6jn1on.jpg
 
Hey Tom I did not know you did T tops.

I sell the 3/16" Black Solid Braid rope used to attach the canvas.
 
yes you can just jb weld a ring at the end....i jb weld my aluminum strips at the end also....the jb weld can take the heat and high nitro....bob
 
Lots of good ideas guys thanks.Bob.you just rang a bell as I used JB weld on some water ks brass tubing I was slipping water lines on over.and they never came off again.

Could you not just jb weld an aluminum ring on over the header say 1/8" from the end ??

I see no reason why I could not use a JB weld "BARB" on the aluminum header and then the coupler and zip tie or some of the other methods.

Will the JB weld withstand the heat.

If i gave it to the right person they Could mig a bead all the way around it also instead of JB weld.

I have very good support at the stinger .It is just trying to slide off the header.

I will fix it this week

Tig would be the method and yes ...I can

6jn1on.jpg
****, tom you really do have marketable skills :rolleyes: :lol: :lol: . nice lookin' t-top! see ya in about a week, have a safe trip ;) .
 

Latest posts

Back
Top