Air Compressor Setup

[Joe_Knesek]

I'm buying a compressor this weekend and I want to plumb my shop the perimeter of my shop with pneumatic lines so I don't have to haul the air lines around. Can I use something other than black pipe? Something like air brake tubing? Also I'm going to use an inline filter infront of the tool but do I need a water seperator at each connection point?

 

[Josh Stollfuss]

I did that in my dad's garage with plastic PVC pipe. It's been like that for years and he's never had a problem. The joints are glued. Holds 140psi.

Josh-

 

[Joe_Knesek]

I did that in my dad's garage with plastic PVC pipe. It's been like that for years and he's never had a problem. The joints are glued. Holds 140psi.
Josh-

The tubing I'm talking about has a working pressure of 350 psi.

 

[Josh Stollfuss]

and? you're not going to regulate it at all?

 

[Joe_Knesek]

and? you're not going to regulate it at all?

Doesn't that go without saying? Most compressors come with a regulator at least the one I'm getting does.

 

[Josh Stollfuss]

Never know... PVC is a good alternative and it's cheap!

 

[Jerry T]

Joe

I have 1/2 copper soldered pipe and run 120-130 psi, no problems, cast iron pipe will give you more problems than copper or plastic on small diameter pipe/tubing.

 

[Roxyflash]

Set up your lines so they drop down at the bottom of each drop put a tee in it like a gas line and take the air from the side of the tee .PVC will work the air brake fittings and lines will cost you more.On my compressor i have a filter then regulator it goes in to the lines from there.

 

[Joe_Knesek]

Set up your lines so they drop down at the bottom of each drop put a tee in it like a gas line and take the air from the side of the tee .PVC will work the air brake fittings and lines will cost you more.On my compressor i have a filter then regulator it goes in to the lines from there.

I've got plenty of Swagelok 1/2 stainless fittings that I can use. I'm not sure I want to use PVC with a pump capable of 16 CFM @ 175 PSI.

 

[piper_chuck]

I was researching this stuff last spring. I read several reports of PVC blowouts. The concensus from most of the places I read was PVC was not a good choice.

 

[steve wood]

never use pvc. it will explode

 

[just for fun]

I was researching this stuff last spring. I read several reports of PVC blowouts. The concensus from most of the places I read was PVC was not a good choice.

Hi Guy's,

I very strongly agree with Piper_chuck. I run my own compressed air service business. When PVC pipe bursts it shatters into spears like glass in a broken window. The major difference is that the window glass normally hits the ground. The PVC pipe is propelled with the relevent amount (normally 100psi) of air pressure behind it. I've seen the end result of it blowing out ; fortunately no one was hurt but, could have easily been fatal. For you and your family/friends DON'T use it. There are special plastics that can be used or else use metal pipe. Before buying any pipe for an air system do some research. Check out if the pipe is rated for water pressure or gas pressure. Air is a gas. Both react differently when suddenly released. Water tends to be a soft explosion; where as air is a sudden expansive explosion

As a simple way to explain.

Take two ballons, fill one with air and the other with water. Now take a sharp object and prick both ballons. The one with water in it collapses and the one with air gets torn to shreds.

Again I stress DON'T USE PVC for anything to do with Compressed Air.

 

[Foolwitools]

Hi Guys,

Joe,

Just curious...... What in the world do you do that needs 350 lbs of air pressure?

and then, others have warned about PVC pipe exploding. What about the hose? I couldn't find a rating on my hoses, but I don't think I want to be in the same room with an air hose charged with 350 PSI. Have you ever seen what a burst air hose can do? the free end of the hose flies around like a self propelled bull whip! We had one let go in the old shop and it beat the crap out of a fiberglass car body. and that was at 175 PSI.

about plumbing your shop:

I want to put air lines in my shop too, but only at 125 PSI. In the past copper was the way to go but it's pretty pricey now...... I'm going buy some PEX tubing and a couple PEX fittings and see if it will work before I do the whole shop. PEX is only rated to 200 PSI, but I think it has a chance of working well where I want to use it.

Good luck,

Bob the Fool :blink:

 

[Joe_Knesek]

Hi Guys,

Joe,

Just curious...... What in the world do you do that needs 350 lbs of air pressure?

and then, others have warned about PVC pipe exploding. What about the hose? I couldn't find a rating on my hoses, but I don't think I want to be in the same room with an air hose charged with 350 PSI. Have you ever seen what a burst air hose can do? the free end of the hose flies around like a self propelled bull whip! We had one let go in the old shop and it beat the crap out of a fiberglass car body. and that was at 175 PSI.

about plumbing your shop:

I want to put air lines in my shop too, but only at 125 PSI. In the past copper was the way to go but it's pretty pricey now...... I'm going buy some PEX tubing and a couple PEX fittings and see if it will work before I do the whole shop. PEX is only rated to 200 PSI, but I think it has a chance of working well where I want to use it.

Good luck,

Bob the Fool :blink:

Bob the Eaton compressor only produces 175 PSI but the tubing I want to use is rated for 350. Here's a link on the compressor.

 

[Don Ferrette]

PVC is definitely out of the question as previously mentioned as it can & will suddenly burst without warning with potentially deadly results. PVC was never intended to carry pressurized gases, why use something in an application it was not designed for?? Copper works well if you can afford the current higher costs & you're real confident in your ability to solder the joints & have them hold 200 p.s.i. I'm not a plumber so you know my answer. Galvanized 1/2" threaded pipe will work great and with a good water trap at the compressor & a bleed valve at the end of the run will last indefinitely. Yeah, it's a pain in the ass initially but well worth it in the long run. Set it & forget it. B)

 

[Topfuel666]

Joe,

I used a combination of 1/2" copper hard lines and the black brake line tubing where needed. Ran the moisture trap down low and then routed the feeder lines high teeing down where I wanted the outlets. Nice compressor - guess there's some serious painting coming up. Good luck.

Bill

 

[Ray Sametz]

Joe, Check out McMaster-Carr part # 53065K22 since you have your own fittings Ray

 

[Joe_Knesek]

Thanks for you help everyone. I think I've got it down now. I'm going to use 1/2 welded stainless tubing from Swagelok.

 

[Ray Sametz]

Joe, I thought the air hose was priced high. SS tubing, welded WOW. Now you have an excuse to by a Tig welder and do it yourself. Have fun. Ray

 

[Joe_Knesek]

Joe, I thought the air hose was priced high. SS tubing, welded WOW. Now you have an excuse to by a Tig welder and do it yourself. Have fun. Ray

It's not as expensive as you may think. I work next to Swegelok and they know me well after buying so much stuff for the flow meters & Kegerators I've been making! I'm actually taking a TIG class at Lincoln Electric in a couple months.